Frank DuVal

I'll go along with the batteries in that statement, but what resources are used in the electronics and motor that are not already used in vehicles today? 🤔 Motor is just copper wire wound on steel, common three phase induction motors.

There is a fuseable-link on the starter solenoid that feeds the rest of the car. Does anything come on? Were you running the highest octane fuel available in your area? 1970 was 10:1 compression. Only year. Needs the HIGHEST octane you can find. Running low octane will cause spark knock, followed by ring/piston damage. Then it can be rebuilt with 8.5:1 pistons....... 🤬

Please note in Graham Man's post that gasoline is cheaper today than it was in 1936! Now, if you lived in Europe..... you might have something to complain about.😉

No available handle extension for those wrenches that I have seen. Of course, when needed, pipe, combination wrench, etc. will be placed into service. 😁

What type? It needs to be compatible with brake fluid and rubber parts. I've been using DOT 5 since the early 80s. Never any white corrosion on parts when I opened them back up, but, I haven't had to open many of them!😉

I see this all the time with DOT 3 systems. Caused by moisture in the air. Master cylinder reservoirs on these older cars are open to the atmosphere. Modern cars use a rubber diaphragm between the atmosphere and the fluid reservoir. Now, why one Plymouth does it and not the other....good question. I fix it by using DOT 5.

I say I’m not, since I would have to look up those initials to see what you said.😉

AFAIK, 4 way flashers were standard equipment across all models in the US starting with the 67 model year. Fords had them in 1966, with the switch hiding in the glove box.

"a"? 🤣

It is quite a chore! The fuel tank was installed on the assembly line (pictures are on the internet) BEFORE anything else was installed in the front unibody under area. 😲 So unless you want to drop the front crossmember (and who wants to add all that work and broken bolts...?), you will be working in tight quarters. You MUST drop the sway bar (on those earlies so equipped, all 64s and lates have them). Make new lines out of Cunifer, then never have to replace them again from rust. A lift helps a lot, since you have to have the car so far up in the air if you are trying to remove tank with the filler and vent still connected (usual method since the clamps are impossible to get to typically).

Nothing AFAIK. SAE is Society of Automotive Engineers. They write specifications for the auto industry. Your fluid drive is a low pressure hydraulic system. Compared to a real high pressure system like aircraft controls! The ones where you look for leaks with a broom handle. When the handle is cut in two, that's where the leak is.😳 They don't want you to fill oil into a hole that is retaining a spring. Maybe the passage does NOT connect directly with the sump. What does the spring do? That would explain where the oil would end up if added through that hole.

Yes! I had a friend with a 61 Beetle, and I got used to flicking the "reserve lever" with my foot. You drove until the engine faltered, flicked the lever and drove to a service station. Who needs a gauge? This is also why VW fuel gauges said R instead of E for many years, a nod to Reserve. The 62 fuel gauge was also mechanical, float attached to a "Bowden" cable that swung the needle.

Ah Ha! the Spyder! Otherwise you would have said carbs.😁 I recommend Steve Goodman in Colorado for rebuilding that YH. Rear Engine Specialists. Yes, get a fuel pump also. And the rubber T and hoses on the tank, since you are putting in a new tank. Lots of discussion on who sells the best T. Lots of the reproduced ones seem to last just a year. As this question on corvaircenter.com/phorum . The filter is special also.... you will need to know if there is a return line connected to the filter. If no return line, then no T at the tank vent either. But, I thought all 63s had the return line. Just quickly look at the filter. Two or three connections?

Watch the tip you use, as you don't want to cut through the plastic. 😲 But I think that is a good suggestion, pressure wash with detergent feed. At least the in tank pump tanks I have seen are large enough in the opening to get your hand in there and clean the sump area.

Yes, replace the stones that are on some Rochester carburetors too!😆

I am so sad this guy is in my state..... an embarrassment.🤬 Sounds like the kind of train wreck guilty pleasure I crave occasionally. More details? I've seen their work, you do not want to see it.

GOCI Graham Owners Club International website.

Both are true, up to the comment of voltage saturation. I did not say voltage saturation, in fact I do not know what that would be.🤔 The points open, current stops flowing in the primary winding of the coil, the magnetic flux starts decreasing, which acts like a motor in that the lines of flux are now moving past the secondary windings generating the high voltage which then is connected to the spark plug. The time between the points opening and the spark at the plugs should be milliseconds. The voltage cannot rise past the start of the plug arc, since the arc is a short to the other side of the spark plug. You can see this with an ignition 'scope. If the coil does not make enough volts, then the plug will not fire. Make just enough volts and firing will be weak, unreliable, lots of driveability issues, like you said. System needs to be able to make enough kV to fire the plugs reliably under all operating conditions. What problem? Just buy the proper coil for the application. No guessing. The lower voltage coil with a ballast resistor lets the ignition system operate at the same kV whether it is running or cranking (running the starter motor). When the engine is running, the voltage at the ignition coil is higher, because the generator or alternator is producing voltage higher than the battery. When the starter is cranking, the voltage at the coil is lower, due to the starter current pulling the battery voltage down. So, when running ad the ballast resistor in line, the coil is getting maybe 8-9 volts. When the starter is cranking and the resistor is bypassed, the coil is getting 8-9 volts. Same thing! I know we all say "the coil gets 12 volts when the starter solenoid is engaged", but actually the voltage is very similar under both conditions. Without this resistor and bypass system, the voltage during cranking at the coil would be lower than when running.

ODMA: Old Dominion Meet Association. Yes, this year's event is being held at Natural Bridge. https://odma.aaca.com/2020-odma-meet/

That's Funny! Center cap bolt right through main journal. 😁 That should keep flying parts stationary! 👍

Me too. And spark plug wires that people run so nice and straight next to each other to clean up the engine looks. They inductively couple so energy is transferred to the wrong spark plugs giving what people call crossfire. Run great at idle, then no power on the road.

Boss Kettering also did early Octane research for GM. And the Kettering of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center. Yes, Padgett, Kettering University was GMI. Charles Kettering started out making an electric cash register work for NCR. Small motor could do short work that required high power. And of course, his highest achievement to vehicles, using small motor to do a bust of high power work (a la NCR) the automobile engine starting motor! Now anyone could start the internal combustion engine.

Ed, I know your talents (from reading on this forum), that's why I was surprised at the words you used. Yes, I make mistakes typing too. 🙄 Thank you for correcting to the fact of cheaply made spark plug wires are not for any engine, not just 6 volt ignition systems. I see so much misinformation of 6 volt systems being written, hence the spreading rumor comment. Without a correction, a future person searching this post would think there was so much high voltage in a 6 volt ignition system that they needed to buy those superior woven cloth wires instead of just good carbon wires. Of course, if going for original looks, one needs to get the correct woven style.👍

Not really. The AC Mechanical pump is basically the same animal internally across all engines of similar displacement. Commandeer 226 cu in, Champion (started in 39 model year) 165 cu in. No 400/500 cubic inch monsters in this lineup. Same with timing marks, the "balancer" is marked with words, not degrees, so same instructions for Commander and Champion engines.

OK, no one said by a cheaply made set of wires, just a standard FLAPS* set. A six volt system does NOT make anymore kilovolts than a modern ignition system. Quit spreading untruths/ old wives tales/ other crap. You may have had a real cheap set that would not have worked on any engine, so they failed in your application, but don't blame that failure on how many kilovolts a standard 6 volt Kettering ignition system can develop. I'm sure you have used ignition scopes in your years in shops. Are you really saying you saw 6 volt systems always develop more kV than 12 volt systems on the 'scope?🤔 In most cases, the kilovolts of a Kettering ignition system is set by the gap of the spark plugs! Once the spark happens, the voltage stops rising, as the coil is now supplying current to the "short" of the arc, and then falls off. Want to change system secondary voltage? Change spark plug gap. I haven't seen any 6 volt system engines call for over 40 thousandths gap. *FLAPS Friendly Local Auto Parts Store. I would have put on a used known good set from another engine for troubleshooting. And NOT run them through the shield/brackets.😉