Frank DuVal

I have that Rhino CD set also!👍

Have you researched 1957 Buick Ball Joints? I hear they are different, so many many OK ball joints were replaced early in life, leading to the lack of availability today.

Yes they were! LaSalle II, Biscayne, Club De Mer, etc.

That is the current standard fine thread bolt also.

You have received good advice. Especially: 1. Have someone unfamiliar with the route follow the instructions. 2. Run the route just before the tour to note changes to route. I've seen rally instructions have to change hours before the event!

How long was it sitting since the last time you drove it?

Have you tried just plugging in the phone's charger/adapter to the 6 volt cigar lighter? I've hear it sometimes works, as the phone "charger" puts out 5 volts. Oh, WAIT, the Chrysler is POSITIVE ground, so you need to build a small insulated box and wire an accessory port (cigar lighter socket) with negative ground to power your charger. I've seen people with Buicks just plug their charger into the 6 volt cigar lighter, but they are negative ground cars. If you buy a 6 to 12 converter, you need to find one with ISOLATED input and output, so the input is 6 volts positive ground and the output is negative ground 12 volts.😉 Here is an example, but this one is WAY too big for your use, hence the high price tag. https://www.powerstream.com/dc6-12.htm

Yes, looks just like the ones on my 79 Scooter. 1980 began the larger tail lamp assemblies.

That's the explanation I got from Dave Garriques back in the 80s. He was a big time license plate collector in the Richmond area (and my JC Taylor insurance agent).

And neither can the person who thinks 37 gallons of fuel gives $75 to thye tax people!🤣

The zero compression in #7 can explain the not idling. It is causing a vacuum leak therefore lean condition to the working cylinders.

So where do you get fuel for your vehicle if the power is out? Power out is power out, it does not know if the power is to charge a battery or run a pump. I've never seen a generator at a service station in these parts. With a Tesla Power Wall, you could stay at home and have lights/heat/AC and fresh food. For how long? I have no clue, I just know they are available accessories. It is possible to get your solar array to work when the power is out, to provide house power when the lines are down, but that is optional for extra money. It has to do with synchronizing your system with the power when it comes back on and a battery back up storage system. Most people do not opt for this option, so they have no power when the lines are down.

Never said it was, just that a bad Pertronix IS a possibility. You stated if the engine ran at all the Pertornix was verified good. The only way I know to troubleshoot a Pertronix is by substitution. I'm sure an ignition scope would help narrow down if the problem was electrical, but not many hobbyistssts have one. Ed and Padgett excluded!😆 Looks like Jon (Carbking) wins the troubleshooting race with the first post to say check compression. 👍 Go with the tools you have to eliminate suspects. No ignition scope? Then try your other tools. I should write that down in my garage!😉

Flash obliterated anything above N in second picture. First picture is great.

I invite you to read all the problems Pertronix have on corvaircennter.com/phorum. Most all are "it runs, just not correctly anymore". 90% of the failures are not complete failures anymore. Those Pertronix from 20 years ago seem to last longer. 😉 Ha! Like you never saw intermittents in electronics?🤣 Here is just ONE recent discussion: http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,1116854,page=1

While I agree that is a good first step usually, in this case they worked before it slept, so there was no wear of the linings in storage. Find the leak. If no leak, then the master cylinder is bad (internally bypassing, but, wait, there would have been no loss of fluid if that was the only failure). I'm with Zeke, that much fluid loss should be visible.

All GM solenoids I ever took apart to clean had pitted discs. Nothing excessive. I thought it was just from switching 100 amps plus. I have replaced the terminal contacts from wear but the first repair is to turn them 180° and wear in a fresh terminal area.

You should work for the military, where there are acronyms for acronyms! And IT is even worse. The only thing missing in the original post is who had the fabric.

Isn't this obvious? Why would a person who is not interested in cars from the 90s even think about them?🤔 And BTW, they are antique tags in this state, nothing about full classic status. Not event a plate that says "Historic". You are confusing what some clubs require for membership, I'm discussing regular people on the street and what they like to drive. Personally I think Corvettes are lousy cars, why would anyone want to collect them? I'be worked on and modified lots of them. Cramped, hot, no clear vision. But, of course, I only worked on pre- 1984 models. I hear they may have improved. 🤣 Should I request no pre-1984 Corvettes not be allowed to wear antique tags just because of the way I think? Just think, in 4 years a 2000 Corvette or a Honda Civic can both wear antique plates in this state. No snobbery allowed here.😄 No, never. Sure for a exclusive club, but for the general public? No. When Model Ts were 15 years old, who wanted one? $5 cars back then. Sure no committee would think them worthy of antique plates when the clock turned to 25 years old. Now look. I see this now with cars of the late 70s. In the mid 80s antique car people joked about how no one would collect late 70s cars. Plastic, smog equipment bound, no horsepower. Now, you see them on the show field all the time. Time is what matters. That 2001 LeSabre was the same everyday driver as a 1959 LeSabre was in 1966. Just a used car. Now look at them in shows. I guess those 1959 LeSabres don't deserve antique plates just because they are over 25 years old, since they were just transportation when new. ???? Wait until 2035, and see what is on the show field. And, on tours! 👍 I'm all in for not abusing the antique plates. Having a year is the only way to make it equitable for all residents of a state. But, the vehicle has to follow the rules of that state to get and keep the antique plate. Use it to sell firewood or drive to work everyday is not following the rules. Period.

Then there are worm drive hose clamps that are too expemnsive for OEMs to use on cars, like the constant torque versions.: https://www.breezehoseclamps.com/breeze/constant-torque/ I have used them a lot on industrial cooling hoses. No issues.

??? I've never seen them not work. And, I just removed and reusued them on our 2015 Buick Encore. I had to replace the turbo cooling line seals, a very common repair I hear. Maybe your picture is a different, earlier design.

Well, Greg, now your insults are now MEDDLING!🤬 I AM a guy who likes the Park Avenues (your picture looks like a LeSabre, short trunk). I own 3. I kept the 1995 Ultra to be an AACA car. The 1998 (not Ultra) I drove everyday to 265k Miles. No, it is not a collector car, just confortable dependable transportation with about 50% of the white paint left on it. Sheds like a snake..... So you can hold it up as an example of what one does not want to see running around with antique tags. But, NO RUST, unusual for a Virginia car.. So, if I gave it to a young person who shows interest in fixing it up, why shouldn't it be running antique tags in two years while they are working on it? Current everyday driver is a 2005 Ultra. It has Connecticut tin worm already working on it, so I doubt it will be around as AACA material in 2030. Oh, I'll probably still be driving it! But since I will not be working then, I could run antique plates on it and be following the law. Just like the Model Ts looked back in the 60s. 🤣 Not everyoone can afford to spend big bucks to get into the hobby with a great looking car. Now, yes, there are issues with people purposefully using antique tags NOT following the law. Like antique tags on a pick up full of firewood for sale. They should be prosecuted. But form a branch of governement to determine if a particular car is worthy of antique tags? No way is that a good idea!😲 Stick with a date (non-subjective) and let the authorities see if one is driving to work everyday. Then of course, what of your job is restoring cars and you are driving a project to work everyday to work on it? 🤔

As they say, "no such thing as a stupid question". No apology needed. Everyone (of 60+ years) remembers those leather JC Whitney grounding straps hanging on cars in the late 50s early 60s. Maybe they worked, maybe they didn't. But that was to dran very high static developed voltage. But, leather is an insulator, when dry. It will not conduct at 6 or 12 volts. There must be some other metallic connection on the sending unit to the chassis of the car. Down in the "Buick Post War Techncal" section there are several people who are well versed in 1956 Buicks, who may have had a sending unit in theor hand and know what the ground path is. Ask your sending unit question again there.

Not yet, have to wait for 2025. So, back in 1980 you said the same thing about late 1970s cars, didn't you? "Who would want to collect a 1979 Cadillac Deville? All plastic and emissioned controlled." Or you said it in the early 90s. "What young person would be caught dead in a 1987 Buick?" Now look at the show field. Driver's participation field, of course. One can also say that about brass cars. "What young person would be caught dead in a 1912 T?" Same silly arguments about cars and who likes them. If we all liked the same car, the show field would be really boring! Oh, look, another T-bird next to that row of Corvetts.😄 I'll go with variety is the spice of life. Corvairs, Chevetts, Grahams, Packards, Buicks, Willys Knights, etc etc.

A fan of the Big Broadcast of 1939? 🤣