Frank DuVal

Yes, Harbor Freight does not have the resources to make special tools for one person, nor do they need to find used tools for one person. But, they have their place in the supply chain. You would me amazed at what they actually make well for home mechanics. Not everything in the store... But some are good, and the new ICON line fells great. I have not used any yet, as I am not in the market for any wrenches. I'm sure if 99% of the people on this forum asked their local Snap-On dealer for he same special service you did, we would get NOTHING! A professional mechanic needs the tool truck to come visit to keep production up., But, if a wrench you need breaks 2 hours after the truck leaves.... the next day the truck is 75 to 100 miles away in this area. It took two months to get my Snap-On torque wrench back from being calibrated. My other off brand torque wrenches did not need calibrating! I agree with a professional mechanic needing tools that work well, but if an off brand (SK, Cornwall, King Dick, Harbor Freight) wrench works, just how is the finished result better using Snap-On brand tool? That sounds like you drank the Kool Aid! I am not talking about poor fit wrenches that leave your hands bloodied and fasteners rounded off, that's obvious. And once you leave the wrench/screwdriver category, better equipment is available from other suppliers, like Miller, Lincoln, National Detroit, Milwaukee, Schaumacher, Channellock, Ridgid, etc. that are better at what they build. I only own a few Snap-On pliers because they just are not as good. Not the right "feel". But I have friends in the business that buy everything Snap-On because the truck stops by and instant financing. My cheap Solar plasma cutter works just as well as their Snap-On version that's twice the price.

We welcome travelers to stop by Fredericksburg, VA on the way to the tour, our "June" AACA show this year is Saturday, May 29th. This year due to bridge reconstruction issues, the show is at the new Fredericksburg Nationals ball park! Details on HFRAACA Facebook page, or PM me on this forum.

My dealings with Fastenal is if they need to order in a fastener delivered to the store for me I am charged the shipping anyway! Yep, memory rusty here. Always good for refresher learning.👍

Time to revisit this from page one of this thread.

Ah, time for a fastener lesson. Go to the source and see these are the bits to fit their screws.😁 https://www.tamperproof.com/ I have not seen the spoke adjustment you mention, all my spoke work was on bicycles of 60/70 time frame, never a motor vehicle, and the spoke adjustment was on the end nut at the rim, adjusted from outside the rim with that Schrader valve 4 way tool.🤔 But I have seen the large screwdriver split tips, so they fit something that is not the two hole screw head!😉

Way back in that link to 41 Champion (same engine) tune up specs, in the small light print, used a 24" monitor...: Pressure: 3 1/2 lbs maximum Capacity: 1 pint or over in 1 minute.

If you like pinching yourself.... I tend to not do the painful routine and still use my KD or Lisle red handled brake hold down retaining tool from 50 years ago.

I've had plenty of stainless steel 18-8 fasteners shear off....... Not a cure, but better than the weak Hillman brand of zinc/low strength whatever. I also have had many stainless steel screws/bolts into stainless steel nuts seize/gall and need to be cut out. Always use dissimilar metal nut to a stainless steel screw/bolt. Bolt Depot is good. So is MSCdirect (the old Manhattan Supply Corp) if you can navigate their online catalog.

Of course, "normal" engine in this case, spending too much time with Corvair engines, since the timing mark is on the crankshaft and the piston is on the crankshaft...... no way can cam or distributor timing be tested this way (unless a Corvair, where the distributor is driven off the crankshaft 😉). So, this is a test of the timing mark on the damper. A good test, as the dampers do fail (slip), depending on construction.

I love them! I do NOT have a slip problem with them using an impact driver to drive deck screws of this head design. I've installed thousands. Maybe you have poor square #2 bits? I dislike having to change over to Torx bits, as that is the head Du Jour at the big box stores now. Yes, Robertson is the square bit/screw head. Comes in 1, 2 and 3 commonly. #1 is on most trim head screws. Tri-Wing. Very common on consumer electronics of large size. For small electronics you need the tiny sets sold with the Torx down to at least T-5. And same with security holes to pass the tamper resistant pin. https://www.newark.com/performance-tools/w1725/148-piece-master-bit-set/dp/11X5716 And then there are Spline heads (no, not Torx in shape), Pozi Drive (no NOT Phillips), hex internal (Allen) and Hex external (typical hex bolt, but in miniature sizes). And, GM trucks from the 60s, Clutch Head!!!!!! Or inside Powerglides also. External Torx, Torx Plus...... And now, Pentalobe!!!!! Sort of Torx but 5 splines..... Most electrical panels now take #2 Square (Robertson) which is very nice for electricians, they do not slip like Phillips (term is Cam-Out and is designed into the fastener, to limit torque on assembly lines).

Not for a six cylinder engine.... Six cylinder point dwell is in the range of 30 to 35 degrees. This series of Champion engines has a point gap of 20 thousandths. So 18-22 is thousandths of inch gap. Seems is not quantitative. Need numbers. Like filling a bottle with fuel while the engine runs on the fuel in the carburetor (fuel line disconnected from carb and inserted into container of known size ) and timed for exactly 15 or 30 seconds. Or running the electric pump into the container for a measured time. Then you will know how many gallons a minute of fuel you are actually getting to the carburetor. Of curse, if the flow gets low only at higher engine load then this test is not good. Then the fuel pressure gauge is a better test. Does the car actually stall, like in stops running while moving down the road? I would carry the tools to remove the top of the carburetor on the side of the road and see if it is out of fuel. Only if the test could be done safely in traffic. i.e. route that allows car to stall and ability to coast safely to side of road where it can be worked on safely! No need to add getting hit by passing cars while under the hood..... If the mechanical pump ruptures a diaphragm, then it will put fuel into the oil. But, if the internal check valves fail (typically there are two of them, one on each side of the diaphragm), then no fuel in oil, but restricted flow output. Have you done the test of hanging a small gas can under the hood and gravity feed the carburetor? A small one quart lawn mower tank will work. Just don't drive far! Boat tanks work well for testing, if you can find a place to safely install it for the test drive. For these you plumb it through the fuel pumps.

UDC is TDC. IGN is an advanced timing position, not 0, TDC or UDC (all different terms for the exact same thing, piston at Top Dead Center). Let's just call IGN 4 degrees advanced. Exact number does not matter, as Studebaker marked it properly for their (and the end user-you) operating conditions. UDC 1-6 just means top dead center for both cylinders 1 and 6 happen at the same time. Therefore if the piston is at the top of it's stroke, TDC, UDC, etc, the pointer should point at UDC, not IGN. With the car running and a timing light hooked up, the pointer should be pointing at IGN, all other criteria in shop manual being met. Yes, if the piston is at TDC and you see the pointer NOT on UDC, then something is wrong inside or with the vibration damper. Yes, if the (engine not running) crankshaft is turned so the #1 piston is at IGN, then the distributor is rotated until the points just open is a good start for correct timing. The mark on the damper IN OP 1-6 | means where the intake valves on cylinders 1 and 6 just start to open (at the mark). This is only good information if the valve covers or head is off. You are not there yet!😉

Right here in this Forum: Should get you close. Notice the damper uses words instead of just numbers. Also here:

Right, find TDC for the #1 piston, and see where the pointer is in relation to 0 on the timing mark (on damper in your picture). If the pointer does not point at 0 when the #1 piston is at its highest point, something has slipped a tooth OR the vibration damper has slipped on the crankshaft or internally (common on rubber ring styles after years). If the pointer does point to 0, then gears, damper (dampener) are OK, look elsewhere for issues, and adjust timing by the book.

Of course it does, it is just on the side of the block, and sometimes two of them. You have to remove them to adjust the valves.... Sometimes calles Side Covers, but you don't adjust the Sides.... English, what a language....😆

I have an antique Monkey Wrench that is about 2 feet long. Great for tightening black iron unions without leaving teeth marks.

Then you should show a picture of a Monkey Wrench!🤬 That is a Stillson Wrench (aka Pipe Wrench)! Google has it confused also, with picture like Padgett shows when looking up Monkey wrench, and pictures of Monkey Wrenches when looking up Stillson wrench.... at least they are labeled Monkey Wrench.... What is wrong with young people who program? A Monkey Wrench has parallel smooth jaws for use on fasteners with flats. A pipe (Stillson) has curved jaws with teeth to grab the smooth pipe or fittings with the flats worn off (like from using a pipe wrench!). Figure 157 is a Monkey Wrench. Figure 158 is a Stillson Wrench.

Hey, Klein do not fit mechanical type fasteners, they are only good on electrical screws! Or tightening conduit locknuts with the blue handled hammer hitting the Klein screwdriver!🤣

If you then let off on the throttle does it quickly jump back to 14 to 15? Or does it stay low and creep back up?

You knew someone in the foundry business? Not many people know what a shrink rule is for.

Those amber handles are the same as Xcelite and Craftsman handles. Cellulose acetate butyrate is the plastic. Has a bad smell too. But they take some abuse! One issue with these handles is they mold. When they are kept in a humid environment, they turn white. The white can be scrapped off with your fingernail. Wait till you go there and try the new line of Icon tools! Like holding Snap-On! https://www.harborfreight.com/icon-tool-storage I have no idea what you mean, but I have many brands of tools. One brand of wrenches is King Dick! https://www.kingdicktools.co.uk/ I've watched the Snap-On dealer change handles and/or blades on the truck. They are made to slide the handle/blade apart for replacement. I'm not sure other brands are made to do this. Many appear to be cast onto the blade.

Snap-On truck carries replacement handles just for this reason. Most every old Snap-On dead blow hammer (the one all covered with plastic) has failed. But, they will send you a new one! You pay upfront for the warranty, use it!😉

Except 1/2" and 3/4", which have the same TPI (threads per inch), 14. The other sizes are different through 2".

Yep, not correct for a positive ground vehicle... Put the positive (red) lead of the DMM on the engine block. Put the negative (black) lead of the DMM on the negative terminal of the coil. That should read 6 volts. Should always read about 6 volts. Let us know when it does not read about 6 volts. The + terminal of the coil should connect to the distributor (points). This voltage varies with engine speed and dwell of points. You can also put the positive lead of the DMM on the positive battery post, and I mean the actual post, not the terminal. Put the black lead of the DMM on the engine block. With the engine running, does the DMM read anything? This test is for the voltage drop from battery to engine block. I would not think this is an issue, since the car cranks fine, but as long as you are looking.....

No, normal failure! The inner seal wears and the hydraulic fluid bypasses internally instead of building pressure in the output port. The only other way a master cylinder fails is leaking out the actuating pin end. The failure is noticeable first as the pedal goes to the floor with light brake application, but works great when stomped on, as the seal then is tight. This makes the master seem too be fine. It will get worse, I kept putting off repair on my 66 Chevy wagon to where you had to continually apply the brakes at a stop light! Young and stupid... Rebuilt it that day...😲