kgreen

Very nice effort, thanks for sharing. I am amazed at the number of parts that car was assembled with. Today's production engineers would never consider something of that effort in these times. You car is a stunning work of art.

You're a good man! The next guy to order will benefit, sorry you didn't, but it is nice to know that Bob's responded positively. Ken

I drove a 1926 Reo firetruck at the Stowe Auto show. As for a regular car and driver report, I got lots of waves and had a ball driving it. Speed was not a serious concern though I chose not to drive it on the interstate, but rather back roads. I did hold up traffic by not going the posted speed, but going faster would have shortened the ride.

Have you contacted Bob's to let them know that they have a problem with their product? Even if they can't do anything for you, they could possibly revise their product. I would hope they could fix this sort of problem for future purchasers.

I'm not sure that at the height that engine is sitting, if the drive shaft exists the firewall through the radio and bisects the front seat.

Keith, I'm about to become much more familiar with the '40 transmission in my car, and for now relay information on your problem based on my Ford experience. Slipping out of gear while coasting in those transmissions was caused by worn synchronizing part(s). Based on the trans diagram below, would it be part K? (anyone) As shown on Bob's page:

That guys 2018 Mazerati must have broken down. Being desperate to get to the gym, he uncovered the always trailered show car. That car looks too nice to risk in unsupervised parking.

Based on my experience last fall, it appears that Egge is selling off their inventory and planning to get out of the game. I was looking for what I expected to be a fairly common 1940 Buick piston. They had sets of 0.030 over and no other sizes. They told me that they would only make a special order size if I ordered dozens of sets. When the last of the 30 over were sold, they did not plan to make more.

Look at all the Mustang parts that Ford used in that car!?!

Now that you ask that very specific question, you are challenging my previous observations. In this photo (far right near the top) they are installed from the bottom up. The shop manual for 1940 shows them installed from the top down. But, as Don noted, these joints are tapered. The steering bracket to which the rod ends are attached, are specifically left and right. Check the taper first. I am going to investigate by steering bracket arms for proper installation. I wonder if the tie rods were replaced at a later date that the shop was too familiar with the later model cars which are installed bottom up (see top of page from shop manual).

What is the difference between what we call fog lights today and trip lights as I have seen referenced on this forum? A google search doesn't bring up any data (real or otherwise) on trip lights.

What part of MI are the engine parts located?

The melting point of tin, which is the largest constituent of solder is about 450 degrees F. Tin is alloyed with other metals to reduce this melting point to somewhere around 360/370 degrees. This temperature can vary by solder manufacturer. Powder coating requires a cure temperature of 400 degrees F. It stands to sound reasoning that a powder coater would not risk damaging a customers part with the temperature ranges involved here.

Basically, the further away you are from a city that has a Birkenstock store, the more likely you are to find a plater.

It's a love hate thing: would love to go back in time when these cars were near worthless and buy them all up, hate that today the car is potentially more valuable but used for target practice.

Found on CL somewhere in Creataville, US: "1940 buick super coupe chopped 5 inches bagged lays frame on ground..professional built has chevy 350 engine with 700 r4 overdrive trans..gets 22 mpg at 80 mph..all modern suspension runs and drives like a dream drive car anywhere" Don't rear enyone or you'll have a Dagmar shoved into your sternam:

Thanks Al, I've also been talking to Hill about his work and availability. I have seen some of the impressive work that his dad had done in the past.

I am definitely aware of Doug, thank you for reminding me of his presence. I visited his shop about ten years ago, taking a friend on his last road trip before his medical condition declined any further. It was certainly a memorable trip and visit with Doug. I've also been talking to his son who appears to be taking a more active roll in parts sales.

I've enjoyed a couple recommendations from "trimacar" on this forum, and am seeking additional referrals and references. Has anyone experience with Al Prueitt and Sons in Glenn Rock, PA?

Rubber was used originally. They can be purchased from the usual vendors or you may find a length of conveyor belt to suit your needs. You will likely have to adjust the body at the mount locations which can be done with various thicknesses of rubber.

Think how cool this would be if it was a Dynaflow. But then again, who wants a wet floor?

My wife and I drove up that way before Nationals, I dropped the Buick in Hancock for a little R & R. I'll go back this summer to pick it up.

While the pan is off, consider plasti-gaging the rod and crank journals. To check for old rear seal leaks, since you have not run the engine, pull the flywheel cover off. If it has a good layer of dried oil, particularly at the drain hole in the bottom, you know it has been a leaker.

I just completed work on my '40 engine, but it was out of the car. Even with the crank removed, getting the seal out of the block was a real chore. I can't imagine what it would take if the crank was still in the block. If you were to consider removing or loosening the crank, I think you are going to have access problems with the front cap. The crank weigh nearly 100 pounds and dealing with the weight while you are under the car could present yet another challenge. I get your point about doing the replacement with the engine in the car though. Pulling the front end sheet metal risks damage to the paint and is a multi-man effort. No one responded with an encouraging word, I hate that all I can offer is doubtful encouragement.