Tom Boehm

Can you post a picture of the rear window set up on your 1941 International ? Do you know what the original looks like? My Lasalle uses the kind like New Old Wood posted above. The 1949 Ford Station Wagon has a metal strip between panes in the back with a lock. Can you use that?

Thank you for posting this thread. Very fascinating. I always wondered about the wood on this Oldsmobile. The wood is actually structural and there is more wood in the doors than shows ion the outside. It is not like the wood on a 1949 Ford which does not hold anything up. You restored the engine. Is the car drivable yet?

Looking good. Do you use a grain filler with the automotive clearcoat or does that finish fill in the grain and level out on its own on wood? The grain looks filled and the finish looks slick on both the ash and sapele.

I can't answer you question with authority but I can offer this suggestion. Wood Grain – Woodgraining Tools And Supplies This company does a high quality factory process woodgraining for pre war dashboards. It might be good for your faux wood framing. Also, While the National Woodie Club welcomes all woodies, real wood or fake, the knowledge base on this section of the forum is mostly about real wood. You might tap into a broader knowledge base by posting in technical questions or general discussion at the top of the index page. Awesome car by the way. I would like to see your car at a show someday. I think more real wood station wagons are seen at shows these days than the newer fake wood ones.

I have used the spray Flex Seal for what it is intended for and it will not do what you want it to. (Flex-Steel is a sofa) It is a lot like spray undercoating. It will not be a smooth coating and it will not have a pattern like cobra grain or faux leather or whatever.

The serial number/vin number is on the driver side on top of the frame in the engine compartment on the diagonal near the oil filler tube. 7 digit number. The serial/vin number and the engine number is on the engine block on the slanted surface behind the driver side head. If the serial/vin numbers do not match, the engine has been changed. The serial number for a 1938 60 Special should start with 627 followed by 4 more digits.

Don't use any of the above on plastic or paint that is supposed to be there. It is OK on aluminum. If the overspray is on paint that is supposed to be there you will probably have to have it repainted. Lacquer thinner on a rag may take the overspray off of aluminum.

By far, my vote for the most useless tool are those reverse spiral screw extractors. They are supposed to remove the stub when a bolt or screw breaks in the hole. I have never had one of those work. If a bolt is stuck enough to break off, those tools do not put enough force to unstick them either. They either slip or break off also.

That was an awesome read! Two important facts that I got out of that story: The all steel body did as much to kill off the independent automakers as the Great Depression did. And, styling was changed to accommodate the all steel body. (as in Art Deco).

There is a guy restoring a 1932 Nash 1063 convertible sedan who did just that. His posts are in the "Our Cars and Restorations" section on this forum.

Does the library in that town have a local history room? They may have city directories from that era. Those books may have a reverse address directory where you can look up an address and find out what business was there. I have used these vintage books at my local library. These were published every year so you can see changes in occupant from year to year. The suggestion from the previous poster is the best first step.

The tailgate and all the hardware is finished! There is still a horizontal rib to be installed on the tailgate and the quarter panels. I will do that when I make the doors so they all line up.

The Fisher instructions for roof cover replacement sounds very interesting. Is that something you could post here?

Also install the top fabric outdoors on a hot day so the fabric is pliable and stretchy. I think that tonneau cover fabric is OK. I considered using that before I found the NOS stuff. Post a picture of your car.

You are right about the S&S hubcap being from a Sayers and Scovill hearse.

My understanding of how a woodie roof works is there is the wood slats, then a layer of fabric, then padding, then the weatherproof top fabric. Since the first layer can be seen through the slats, choose a pleasing color and texture. This layer is so you can't see the padding through the slats. Knowledgeable people told me not to use foam for the padding because it will deteriorate in the summer heat. "Trimacar" on this forum told me to use cotton quilt batting from a fabric store. SMS has some 70's style vinyl top material on their website which may be closer to the texture you are looking for. I doubt that comes in the width you need. "Trimacar" also said it helps with the installation if the top fabric stretches a little.

You are right. I did not word that clearly. Psych!

I am restoring a woodie and I recently dealt with this subject also. Many woodies had canvas on the roof with a vinyl coating in the cobra grain texture. I could only find black and none of it was wide enough to cover in one piece. Seams would be necessary. I needed 66" also. SMS Auto Fabric had this fabric but not wide enough. Look on their website as they had other options too. I considered what I call convertible top fabric or Haartz cloth. This may be the same as what you call tonneau cover material. I see this on a lot of woodies also. You are much more likely to find this in your color choice. The website for the Haartz cloth company had a lot of good information about what old cars had originally and about what they offer now. I don't remember about their widths but I think that would need to be seamed also. In the end I acquired what I wanted but did not think existed. An individual sold me a roll of NOS brown vinyl cobra grain canvas backed that was 67" wide.

Again, very nice. As usual I have questions. You built the whole car in the time it took me to make and varnish the tailgate. What kind of wood is on the panels? If mahogany, what kind? How do you get the shape of the panels so there are no gaps around the edge? On mine, I made a template of thin plywood. I used trial and error to get that just right and used it as a guide with a router. Router bit had a bearing. Why do you have panels in the windows? What finish are you using and how are you applying it?

I just wanted to remove the rust from a porcelain coated exhaust tip. I soaked it in phosphoric acid and it took the porcelain off along with the rust.

I'd be interested in hearing more about the ignition module and its problems. I have a 1973 318 with similar symptoms. Also where can I get a reliable quality new ignition module?

What is the proper pronunciation of "Duryea" ? dur-yay dur-ree-a dur-yee

A channel lock pliers that was in a 1967 Mustang I had as a teenager in the '80s. I also have a wide variety of older American made tools from my Dad and both Grandfathers.

Very nice. I am doing the same on my Lasalle now. Where did all the body hardware come from? (brackets, hinges, locks, handles). Is it reused from the original body or reproduced. I was lucky almost all of the original hardware came with the car. Also- slotted wood screws are getting harder to find. Where did you get yours?

I found this while looking for something else. Scroll down for International pictures. burb Click on this.