Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I'm having a real problem with the swing out windshield on my DL. It seems to be a different setup than every other 32 Dodge Brothers I look at to get some information on how it's mounted. This may be the penalty of owning a DL that was built in the first week of production. Somewhere along the line, they seemed to have changed the mounting style of the windshield frame, probably because the early mounting was not a good design. Paul Reichert, another DL owner, and I have been corresponding via email, and he's sent me photos of his windshield frame and mounting style. And that's where the problem lies. This gets a bit complicated, so patience, please. My car's windshield frame has two pivot points sticking out of the top side of the frame. In this shot you can see the pivot assembly - it fits inside the frame and the threaded stud sticks out of the side of the frame. I'm not sure if anything actually screws onto the stud to make a smooth pivot point, but there was nothing on it when I disassembled the car. Here is the hole where the studs stick out of the frame. The studs fit into a rubber thingy at the top of the windshield opening. There is one of these at each top corner. When I sent my frame to NC Industries to have a new one made, they had a pattern for the DL windshield, but said, unequivocally, that the DL frame had a hinge on top. We went around and around - I sent pictures, information and plaintive missives and they said they had never seen anything like my setup. Paul graciously sent me photos of his frame and, yes, you already know the answer, his frame has a hinge along the entire top - just like NC Industries said there should be. This is his frame - you can see the hinge. My problem is that the rubber thingies are hard as a rock and no one has ever heard of them, let alone tried remaking them. I'm thinking I should Have NC make me a hinged frame, but I'm not sure if I can actually attach it to my car. This is a shot of Paul's car with the holes for the hinge clearly visible. You can see the flat surface where the hinge would lie. Here is a similar shot of my car. There are screws there, but they are holding on some sort of channel - perhaps to hold a rubber seal? I think I can take the channel off, but I'm not sure if the holes would match up with the new hinge or if I have a flat surface under there. What do you think is the best approach to this problem? I'll see if I can get that channel off and discover what lies beneath.
  2. The fact you disassembled the frame will make future problems much less severe as the rust that usually remains under connection points will be eliminated. Two part epoxy, POR with a protective top coat, or powder coating all work great. Nothing is totally bulletproof. You can get a very nice finish brushing POR, as it flows out very nicely. I had my frame blasted and powder coated for $400. The labor and paint savings were worth it to me, but I have done frames with wire-brush cleaning and paint that held up very well. If you're driving the car, you're going to be doing touchups from time to time no matter what. If you have to rivet the frame back together, you're going to ding up whatever finish you have on it. Remember that two part epoxy paints can kill you - always wear the correct respirator and skin protection. That's why I avoid them when I can - they are also quite expensive. Obviously, from all my rambling here, there is no "right" answer.
  3. Looking great. Are the decals on the motor red? I'm not a Buick expert, but I assume the decals are still available.
  4. When I tore down my 32 DL flathead six at my engine rebuilders, they had a roller stud extractor that looked like a socket, but had an internal three roller setup that gripped the stud and took it right out with a socket wrench. I'm no expert, but my only concern would be the length of your studs above the head. I removed my head and then removed the studs, so there was a lot more stud to get a grip on. The two nut solution would have the same problem - can you even get two nuts on the stud, -plus you're putting a lot of force on the very top of the stud. Even after I removed the head, it took a lot of force to get the studs off. Despite my very careful efforts, one stud broke off in the block and had to be removed by the rebuilder. The short length of stud protruding above the head, plus the corrosion holding the stud to the head makes for a perilous adventure for you. Snap off the stud and you're pulling the head. I don't remember which studs went into the water jacket, but there were a lot of them - and they were all badly rusted on the bottom threads. Some lost a good half inch of stud.
  5. Changing the drivetrain will probably not make you very popular around here. That looks like a nice car - consider keeping it original.
  6. The Lincoln was a solid car in original condition. A nice Dodge touring and Nash touring both sold for $12,500, not cheap, but not over the top like the Reo. Maybe it was auction fever, but I'd like to know why the buyer thought this one particular car was worth so much more than the rest of the inventory. Maybe it was those goofy headlight accessories.
  7. The other cars in the auction were "VanDerBrink Auctions cars" and they went for much lower prices than the Reo, despite being in similar condition and of a similar age - the 23 Lincoln for eleven grand being a case in point. So, yes, I felt I needed a further explanation. I didn't think 23 Reos were unusual enough to command such a higher price.
  8. That car went for big money compared to other equally nice cars in the auction. I'm just as puzzled as you are.
  9. It's always amazing to me how these odd and frustrating problems crop up during a restoration. I've had my share and expect to have more in the future. I can't help you with this one, but I'm sure the experts will chime in in no time.
  10. Three years from now you'll have eight guys show up wanting these parts. It always seems to work that way. I have a 32 Dodge Brothers, but I'd be all over these if I had a 40 Chrysler.
  11. Taylormade

    DeSoto VIN

    Some states title the car the year it was purchased. My 1932 Dodge Brothers DL was built in January of 1931.
  12. I was going to use brass tubing. Where did you get the poly?
  13. It's always good to check things out when you have the chance. Very little crud in there, but plenty of peace of mind. Looking great!
  14. If the cylinders are step bored (I think I misunderstood your post and thought you had different sized cylinders on each wheel) with two different diameters in one cylinder, then they are incorrect for your car and are after market items.
  15. Get a pressure washer in there - you'll be amazed at the crud that will come out. I took the casting/freeze plugs out of my 48 Plymouth flathead six. I thought the water passages looked pretty good - until the pressure washer blew out two pounds of rust and crud. ?
  16. Should be the same for both on the front, same for the rear.
  17. Are the cylinder bores any good? They are usually pitted or scored. I went through this with my 32 Dodge Brothers DL. Several suppliers advertised new wheel cylinders, but none were correct. I discovered the front cylinders are different from the rear. I gave up and had mine resleeved, keeping the original cylinders. The rubber and cups are standard sizes and can be ordered from most parts suppliers.
  18. Nothing very spectacular today, just more assembly. I got the bumper brackets back from the powdercoater yesterday and they look great. I had him do the luggage rack, too, and I'm very happy with the way it came out. I got the front bumper brackets on with no problem, but, as it always seems to be the case, I discovered that I had forgotten about the two pieces that attach the chrome bumpers to the brackets in the center. I should have had them powdercoated with the other parts, so I still need to clean and paint them before I can get things back together. Luckily, they are behind the bumper and don't really show. So, I'm stuck at the moment with this much done, Since this is a sidemount car, the rear bumper is not split, but one single piece. You can see the bracket in this shot to the right of the luggage rack. My wife is at the high school helping my daughter at the concession stand, and It's a two man (or woman) job to get the luggage rack on without scratching the paint, so that will also have to wait until later today. The bumpers are rechromed and ready to go, so it's frustrating when I run into these minor roadblocks.
  19. Is your coil overheating as the car warms up?
  20. There is a closeup of the product information in the original post. The label gives the product and part number.