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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Well, I finally got Daphne started. No real problems, she cranked for awhile but then took off. There was some obnoxious noise from the fan or waterpump area that I think was a loose fan belt - you can see my worried and annoyed look on the video. The first few tries nothing happened, and I thought she might not be getting a spark. I loosened one of the plug leads and held it close and got a spark. Then the motor wanted to start. I snapped the plug wire back on and she started right up. Not sure why that seemed to be the "spark" that got her going. On a later try, I had to do the same
  2. They look like the two on my DL, but the length may be different. I’ll check tomorrow.
  3. Thanks. Adjusted the carb this afternoon. Plans are to start the car tomorrow evening when my granddaughter gets out of basketball practice.
  4. Doing a few small jobs today. I cleaned off the speedometer cable (it's a long one!) and was pleasantly surprised to find everything intact, still very flexible, and with both ends and fittings in good shape. The cable pulls out of the housing easily. and I plan to clean it and re-lube the housing. Any suggestions on the best way to do this? The housing was caked with 80 years of dirt and oil, but it cleaned up nicely. Ends and fittings all good. Then I fabricated a new carb linkage, as my new BB-1 updraft is differe
  5. Also 32 Dodge Brothers DL. Won’t fit a 33.
  6. Based on other posts about Sactownog’s 34 (33?) Dodge, this gearbox won’t fit your car. The unit you have is identical to my 32 DL, a one year only design. I don’t think it’s for a Plymouth, but I’m not sure. It has the free wheeling extension on the back. I think they went with an integrated free wheeling setup in 33. I know the mounting system will not fit your car. It also looks like the rubber mount is shot, or even broken, by the way the shift gate lines up in several of your photos. Contact me if you plan to take this apart, as you can badly damage some valuable parts - ask someon
  7. It would be great, but my 32 doesn’t have the brace. Not sure about overheating. Maybe metal is a better way to go.
  8. Since I’ve never seen the original coil, I can’t comment on it’s weight, but Bullfrog’s comments are reassuring. The ignition switch is off to the side of the dash, not covered by the instrument panel insert. Thanks for the comments, I’ll let you all know it works out.
  9. Just found this on Amazon. With the wall thickness and temperature range, I think this might do the trick. or, do you think it would be too flimsy?
  10. I've been trying to come up with a practical way to mount my coil. The 32 Dodge Brothers DL originally had one of those integrated coils where the ignition switch is built into the rear of the coil and the whole unit rests behind the dash as a single unit. Some of these type of coils were mounted on three prongs that accepted bolts on the back of the dash. My setup used a tubular mount that the coil and switch were clamped to. It worked like this - There is a company that still makes this type of coil, but they want almost three hundred bucks for the unit. My
  11. I checked, but it would be under the gas tank cover and not visible from the top view.
  12. So, I've taken over 4000 photos during the restoration of Daphne. Apparently, that just wasn't enough. I'm going through the exhaust system, getting ready to hook everything up. As I documented in earlier posts, I had the mounting bracket just behind the muffler remade (mine was missing) and the frame bracket re-vulcanized by Then And Now Automotive. So, all I had left was the rear mounting bracket. The problem is, I have two bags labelled "rear exhaust mount." This one... And this one... I went back through my frame disassem
  13. As far as I know, all 32 radiators have that hole. My car did not come with the thermostatically controlled shutters. The original owner opted for side-mounts and wire wheels, but no shutters.
  14. The radiator attaches to the shell with flat head slotted screws and nuts. The pain is you have to stretch the hood lace away enough to get the screw in there and then get a screwdriver on it to tighten things down. It's a long and tricky process. Then it was time to put everything back on the car. Lots of protection for the fenders. Things went smoothly and the shell dropped into place with no damage, scratches, cursing or other problems. Filled with distilled water after hooking the hoses back up and no leaks or other diffi
  15. Put the radiator back in last weekend. Some interesting details in this assembly. First, the water leak that started the problem. And the repair. The area cleaned and soldered. The lower section of the radiator has this stamped steel piece that, I believe, helps direct air up and into the radiator. It attaches with these screw head bolts and nuts. Thankfully, they didn't break when I took things apart. I don't know where I'd ever find replacements. They go through the honeycomb of the r
  16. Also, add the cost of rechroming the bumpers. Nice looking car.
  17. I think Gary and the rest of the folks on the forum were just trying to answer your questions as best they could. It’s not our job to prove your car is or is not a genuine woodie, but to offer advice on finding the truth. This seems to be your main concern. If you want a nice car that is fun to drive and show at local events, it makes no difference. If you want to strive for national awards and high resale value, you’d better make sure of the car’s origin before you spend big bucks to finish the Pontiac. The word of an auctioneer, a friend or a wife, however well intentioned, do not const
  18. Another problem can be getting the body up over the steering column and steering wheel.
  19. I believe the Dodge uses the shorter block. Chrysler and DeSoto used the longer block.
  20. I see the problem. My car’s body was channeled over the frame and it was necessary to remove the running board splash pans and a metal strip that held captive bolts that attached to the frame. I can’t tell if this is the case with your car. I know my 29 Plymouth’s body sat on the top of the frame, but by 1932 many cars had the body channeled for a lower, sleeker look. At any rate, we lifted the body off using a floor lift, placing the support pads under the door hinges. Not ideal, but it was the only way we could figure out how to do it. We could have done it with four or five guys muscl
  21. That looks like a very nice car. What problems with the frame do you have that need repair? Is the body channeled over the frame like my 32 Dodge Brothers, or does it rest on the top of the frame rails. Unless your frame really needs attention, lifting the body is a lot of work.
  22. Beyond saying that’s one of the best looking delivery trucks I’ve ever seen, I can’t help you. I wonder if any are still around?
  23. Owner says it was an 8 out of 10 fifty years ago when they stuck it in a barn. Check out the rust holes at the bottom rear of the body. A perfectly good car ruined by indifference and neglect. Only a dedicated Dodge Brothers fan is going to tackle this restoration since you can buy a nice one for a fourth of the cost of the restoration. I sense the odious scent of rat rod wafting in from the barn.
  24. I actually love the pattern, but it strikes me that it is too large in scale to fit the car. I was expecting a much smaller version of that design, which I think would fit the overall look a bit better. Color and look are dead on.
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