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Garnet & Gold

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Everything posted by Garnet & Gold

  1. I should have asked why/what the problems where under the console. The power seat switches are connected to the underneath side of the console on posts with screws. More than likely the posts are broken and no longer hold the switch in place. You will need to remove the face plate around the radio which as I recall are a screw on each side of the face plate. I'm getting old and forget if there are other screws on the console to remove the console. It will have to be removed so that the posts can be rebuilt. If the posts are not broken off a part of the post may be broken away with the screws. Check all the electrical things while you are under there such as cigarette lighter and light at the back of the console. When you put it back together make sure you get the seat switches in the correct side. I also hope that the gray block used to connect the wires to the switches is not broken as they are impossible to find. People have not taken them out of scrape cars and I have not found a 3D printer that can recreate them.
  2. Gentleman, Thank you for the response. Mensa , you are correct in that it is a b---h to remove. I am preparing my latest acquired TC for a AACA concourse d'Elegance and between other house hold chores including cleaning up after Irma, I have spent weeks and am not done yet. Been removing parts and cleaning those engine compartment parts also.
  3. There is a product that car dealerships sometimes spray on the firewall and fenders in the engine compartment to protect the metal. I don't believe this spelling is correct. Is anybody familiar with this product and what is the correct spelling? The product is like a wax. My mechanic gave me this spelling and he admitted he did not know the correct spelling.
  4. It is a 2.5 MM Allen wrench on the shift lever that faces the radio and you need to remove the bolt in the white plastic piece seen from the passenger side and unloop the green wire.
  5. Here is a picture of the firewall showing that the hoses have been removed. There other end needs to be capped off for both lines. These lines are in front of the driver. Sorry don't have a picture of the other ends.
  6. Depending on where you live you can disconnect the heater in the engine compartment. If you live up north this puts your heater out of commission.
  7. Just remember that these cars were hand made and placement of things can be slightly different. They should be interchangeable. The ginger interiors have a real dark brown color while the black interiors have a black instrument cluster cover. To see the difference you have to hold then up to one another. Putting a brown into a black interior is more noticeable than putting a black into a ginger interior because there is no other blacks to compare the black instrument cluster cover to.
  8. I will be producing a revised list of VIN's on this web site so if your VIN is not in the list and you want it to appear, please add to this thread.
  9. I have attached a picture of the back side of the 2 switches in the storage area. Be careful not to break off the dog ears on each side when removing. Both switches are the same inside. The wires coming to the switches are different. Switch the connectors and give that a try. If that works for the pull down it is a bad switch. The tonneau switch only has to release the latches on each side while the top has to pull down and release. Hope this helps.
  10. It sounds like you are referencing the same switch. That being the case the switch seems like it is bad. It is making contact on the down direction but a bad contact on the release direction. I would suggest removing the switch and put dielectric on the contacts. There is also in the trunk a hole in the carpet that backs up to the area where the soft top is stored. It takes a 19 MM wrench and counter clock wise turn will release the pull down mechanism and clock wise pulls the pegs tight.
  11. If anybody tries this let us know how it works out. I think it will be a tight fit both in height and diameter.
  12. The site talks about a "charge port on top" that being the reason why it is taller than the original accumulators. What is the purpose of this charging port? Is that only used by the manufacturing company?
  13. There are 3 different gears as defined, the yellow gear has 19 teeth and is designed for 14", 15" and 16" tires; the blue gear has 20 teeth and is designed for 13", 14" and 15" tires; there is also a white gear with 21 teeth and I don't know the intended tire size.
  14. Rock Auto has the service manuals just make sure you enter the correct year. Enter 1989 for the blue book and 1990 or 1991 for the red book. The price is $46.79 plus shipping.
  15. You are going to have a problem with the black 1989 steering wheel since there were no black interiors and exteriors in 1989.
  16. Roger I am on vacation and don't have access to anything but my cell. Be careful as the painted part of the J hook mechanism is pot metal and if you break it it cannot be repaired. Garner & Gold
  17. I have 2 TC's in my file that have been repainted blue. Both of them are 1989 with SOHC. VIN 200292 with a ginger interior and VIN 204059 with Bordeaux interior. The color and finish looks very nice on this one.
  18. My new TC had this same problem and 3 counter clock wise turns on the driver side hood stop and 1 turn on the passenger side hood stop and the hood pops up like it should.
  19. I guessed the same. I added it as a 16V. There were 11 California cars and 50 for the 49 states in 1989 with this combination.
  20. Hemi told me this process and it was a quick fix and worked. No removing parts just turning up the hood stops.
  21. Wild Bill, I got 1 inch foam as the few pieces that were remaining in my TC measured 1 inch. G&G
  22. I must help a fellow triple black owner. There are 4 pieces of head liner that are attached by plastic parts. The first 2 that need to be removed are at the top and bottom of the rear window. The top piece is attached with 5 tree push pins and they are not open ended in the same direction. You may want to plan on replacing the tree push pins also. The bottom piece is attached with Phillips screws. Then there are the 2 side pieces around the porthole windows. They should be removed by pushing to the back and to the bottom of the hardtop. Again they are attached by tree push pins. I took these parts to my dry cleaner who was also a hot rod type and he said they could not be dry cleaned because they were attached (glued) to the plastic. The remainder of the liner is attached by pressure between different parts. I would suggest not removing these parts completely but loosening them and sliding the liner out. Be very careful around the front "J" hook latches as they are pot metal and breaking them cannot be repaired. The remainder of the head liner is held in by 4 metallic ribs. Three run from front to back and 1 runs from side to side. These ribs are held in place by plastic flat "S" shaped parts. Part of the "S" shape holds the rib and the other end of the "S" is holds the rib by placement in the hardtop. At this point the liner is completely out. You will see the remainder of the foam. Clean that up. You will be able to see how the foam parts were cut as the glue indicates where the foam was glued down. You can purchase new foam from a crafts or fabric store. Should the head liner be beyond cleaning and you have to replace it, again the fabric store will come into play. You will need 3 yards of 54 inch wide material and if you need it I have a pattern of the pieces laid out on that size material. God luck and if you have more questions or want to see pictures let me know via PM.
  23. Hi Bro, That was in the table when I started keeping these VIN's. I also have in my personal table of all the VIN's that there was 1 white/ginger/SOHC in 1989. Check your copy of the table. Bro
  24. Have you checked the fuse under the steering wheel? Circuit # 9 10 AMP
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