Garnet & Gold

for sale on eBay for $28.00 free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261816004293?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Hi Bill, I have been using a product from Advance Auto Parts # MW51634 and it is already black. It is wider than what I need so I cut it in half and get 20 feet worth. Measurements are 5/16" X 3/4" X 10 ft. and cost a little more than your white weatherstripping as it is $10.49 but it is black. Bob

Don't know how original you may want your car to be, but the Lebaron windshield would not have the PentaTrident on the bottom center of it.

Here is a picture of the rear window defroster wire as it comes out from the soft top well. It is not very long. The wiring that goes to the pull down motor comes up from the same location as this wire and runs across the bottom of the well to the center where the pull down motor is if you have one which sounds like you don't. You can see the pull down wiring in my first picture provided. Bob

Here is the Blue Service Manual for the 2.2 SOHC which looks like the thermostat does not have the 'air vent valve'. In the red manual they do show the thermostat with the 'air vent value' for the 3.0 L. Looks like they suggest the 195 degree thermostat.

Here is a picture of the soft top well. The pull down mechanism has already been removed from the trunk side of the well and laying down in the well. Hope this helps. There are 4 bolts holding the pull down in place as I recall.

Should you have a leak in the water pipe underneath the plenum it might be the two O-rings but could be the pipes also. Chrysler parts department are too expensive so use again Rock Auto under > CHRYSLER > 1991 > TC MASERATI > 3.0L V6 > Heat & Air Conditioning > Heater Hose / Pipe and if you need the pipe you get the O-ring with the pipe but you can buy the O-rings separately. You will also then need the intake manifold gaskets. You should do the water pump first and run the engine and if the water pipe leaks it will run down on the top of the transmission, but they can be done as two separate jobs without work overlap.

You might need an oil pressure sender switch and it lives immediately in front of the oil pan so if it is bad the oil would be blowing back on the pan. Rock Auto part #6G1 about $15.

Looks like you have tried all the right things. I have attached a picture of the pull down that has been removed from the vehicle but still sitting in the well for the soft top. I have circled in white the hole that goes into the trunk and the bolt that should have emergency access from the trunk to tighten or release the pull downs for the tops. There are 2 bars that go from the mechanism to where the pull downs are and I have put a red line parallel to them. I suggested to another thread user to try putting a pair of needle nose pliers in the hole from the trunk and twisting the pliers to see if that would release the pull down. The other person was successful with this approach.

The picture of the wire looks more like it is coming out of the hardtop because of the length of it. You had said that the wire came out of the tonneau but that wire is shorter than the wire pictured. People will tuck the wire out of the tonneau under the tonneau when they take the hard top off so that it will not show and flop around. Look down in the 2 openings on the small piece of plastic between the tonneau and the door opening also where he seat belt comes out from and see if there is not a wire there with the same looking fitting. On the map light underneath the rear view mirror, I just checked mine and it works independently of the door ajar switch and it is worked by a switch on the driver side of the rear view mirror on the bottom side. It works both map lights under the mirror.

I'm guessing that the 'door ajar switch' is where it should be plugged into which is the switch/button on the rear of the door opening. The plug you have the picture of does look like the one that gets connected to the defroster in the hardtop rear window. Don't know what the connection looks like at the door ajar switch but a repairman might have connected the wrong plugs if they look the same.

The trunk release button is in the glove compartment in the upper left corner.

Check out this thread http://forums.aaca.org/f144/removable-hard-top-balance-328436.html If you have any questions let me know. I will be moving the hoist as I don't like the way it is centered. Want to move it about 18 inches.

It is a ten year old web site and I would imagine it does not exist anymore. Periodically there is one that appears on eBay.

Just replaced my tonneau struts today and the worst part is putting the new ones on because the new struts will be all gassed up. You need to compress them about 1/4 inch so that the second end will slip on to its proper location. The tonneau does work real nice with the new struts.

One of Lee Iacocca's demands on the car was that he did not want any screw heads to show. I have made a pattern from which the pieces of clothe can be cut out. If you would like it send me email via private message. You can get new push pins from Chrysler just take one with you to show the parts service man. The headliner material will take clothe that is 54 inches wide and 3 yards long. Material can cost around $50 a yard. It also requires a backing material that is used at the seams and where the ribs go through. This backing material is cheap but get heavy stuff. Again for the clothe take a piece with you when shopping. Took me a while to locate a shop that had acceptable material for me.

I agree with Digger that the wheels are probably off of a Lebaron. With those wheels, body color and trim the car really is beautiful. The only factory options were the engines in 1989 and 1990. The CD player was an option but was not installed in the factory but in the dealership because of the high theft rate of radios in Italy.

This is a major undertaking unless you are going to have an automotive fabric shop do the work and then I'm sure they will not know what they are doing or where to get the materials to do the job. To begin removal start around the rear window and remove the screws (7 screws under the rubber strip) underneath the window, that will allow the skinny clothe covered plastic piece to be removed. Next the fatter piece needs to be removed that lives at the top of the rear window. This is a difficult piece because it is not screwed down. It is put on with 5 push pins the problem it does not slip off because the open side of the "U" shaped plastic piece does not open the same direction. 3 open one direction and 2 open the other direction. If you can get one of the push pin removal tools it would help a lot. Next you have the 2 side pieces that go around the port hole. There are 2 screws that need to be removed one you just uncovered by removing the fat piece. The other screw is located at the corner where the side pegs are. Again I believe it is hidden beneath rubber molding. These side pieces where put on with 3 push pins and again they are not open in the same direction. There are 2 on the long part that are open toward the front of the car and there is another plastic piece that opens toward the top of the roof located just a little bit away from where the hard top would contact the quarter window. Again if you can reach underneath with the push pin removal tool it will help. Now under the rubber molding on the leading edge of the hard top there are (I believe) 11 screws that need to be removed. Next the 2 front pull down levers need to be removed. Be real careful with these as they are made of pot metal and if any part of it gets broken it cannot be repaired. There are screws underneath the rubber molding where the top of the window comes in contact with. Now you should have the headliner clothe loose on all the edges. There are 4 ribs holding down the clothe. One runs from side to side near the leading edge of the hard top. I believe there are 5 screws that hold that rib down. There are 3 ribs that run from the leading edge to just above the rear window. These 3 ribs are pushed into the plastic hard top at the ends and in the middle they are held firm with an "S" shaped plastic clip that partly goes around the rib and the other end of the "S" slips into slot in the hard top. You can now see the 1 inch foam that is probably falling apart because of the heat it has been exposed to. This should put you in a position to start repair work. Good Luck!

Weights 85 pounds.

To get the console off you must remove the gear shift lever. To remove the gear shift it takes a 2.5 MM allen wrench to back out the set screw that face forward on the shift. The green line needs to be removed which requires removing the bolt holding the line in place. It is the pointer next to the gear shift showing what gear the car is in.

Below is a picture of the jack point under the body of the TC. The front point is 7 inches behind the front wheel opening and the rear point is 17 inches in-front of the rear wheel opening. It is tucked under the body more than you would expect and does not hang down very low.

Finally went into the garage and opened up some parts and the top stainless steel piece that the top comes down on is held down by 5 screws. There are 2 screw holes on each end where the pull down is and you can see the screw heads. The last screw is in the middle of the stainless and you cannot see the screw head as it is underneath the plastic trim piece that runs across the top of the windshield between the pull downs. I don't know how the trim piece comes off. Hope this helps.

Bob, I have never taken it apart but saw these items for sale on eBay and they might be a clue to the answer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-trim-clips-Chrysler-Maserati-TC-/181568109320?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a464d7b08&vxp=mtr#ht_25wt_1034 Bob

Congratulations, you did a very nice looking job.

It would be helpful if you identify the specific trim piece that is coming off so that the correct approach can be taken to put it back on. A previous owner of the car may have done a quick fix to sell the car and that is why it is now coming off.