Garnet & Gold

There are a total of 25 "push pins" used to attach the hood liner and no adhesive used on it.

Unless things have changed in Italy, you need to more concerned about the radio being stolen. All radios were installed state side as the life expectancy in Italy when the TC was made was about 5 - 10 minutes.

Here is a picture of what Digger914 is saying. Note the wrench on the mounting tube up against the fender well so that the tube will not rotate. Then put the allen wrench in the hole on top of the accumulator followed by vise grips clamped down to hold the allen wrench in place and from stripping out the edges on the hole. It will then take a brake bar on the allen wrench to remove the accumulator. Hold the vise grips and the brake bar so that they both turn together.

20 pumps should be enough but 25 does not hurt. Before you start, look at the level of brake fluid in the tank (should be at the arrow) and after the pumping you will notice that the fluid level is higher as the fluid is pumped out of the accumulator. I hope the person in another thread that said something about filling the brake fluid over the proper level will read this as if it is over filled it will get pumped out and eventually achive a proper level after enough brakeing.

Since the '89 hood liners had a great tendency to get destroyed by the engine heat, I would try and locate the hood liner from a '90 or '91 and use that as it will last a long time and not deteriorate. I have seen very few '89 with a complete or nice looking hood liner.

Here is the item number on eBay. 161389804124 they look really nice but $450 Buy it now. If you are going to show the car it might be woth it.

Check out this thread to assist in console removal. http://forums.aaca.org/f144/removing-console-339854.html Bob

Digger914's PDF file is good because it show you how to remove the odometer from the instrument cluster. Here is the youtube video which starts with the odometer already out.

The headliner is probably sagging due to the deterioration of the foam rubber that was glued to the plastic top and has now come loose and causing the headliner to sag. If the headliner itself still looks nice you are in good shape. The headliner is the expensive part to have to replace. I think you can do the repair yourself (based on things you have said in the forum) as it takes a can of 3M Spray Adhesive High Strength and about 2 yards of 1 inch foam rubber. If you need more help taking it apart let me know. Bob

Is the sagging headliner in the soft top or the hard top? Bob

I have to give credit where credit is due and the upper picture in the other thread referenced was taken by Bob Barrow at Monaco.

Peak does make a 'Radiator Super Cleaner and Flush' for about $4.00 and if you think you might have a blockage in your coolant system, this would be a cheap ways of possibly correcting it. Read the directions on the label first as part of the directions say to run the engine for 3 to 6 hours. If the blockage is real bad it may over heat way before that. Bob

Great pics Ghosty.

I have attached a picture of a pull down mechanism that has already been removed from the soft top well. It is normally connected by 2 bolts on each end of the bar. You said that you tried the manual trunk release and that is apparently broken somewhere. I would try is to put a pair of needle nose pliers on the hole in the trunk and turn them counter clockwise to get the bars to move such that they release the catches on the hard top. Good Luck.

Notice that the stainless steel trim parts are missing from around the wheel wells so there has been some body work and paint done on the bottom side of the car as well. Also the pinstripes are not the factory color. Nice job.

My records show that there was only one white 1989 TC with the T2 engine and it did have ginger interior and had a black top. I have a 'rug' on my dash and also had a terry cloth cover made for my arm rest, but the leather is not bad (hopefully to keep it nice)(comes off at shows).

TCBUCKY89, What is the item number on the blue TC on eBay, I cannot find it. Thanks, Bob

http://mecum.com/lot-detail.cfm?lot_id=CA0814-196285 Here was a nice one at the Mecum Auction in Monterey, CA sold for $7,000 with 4,000 miles.

Thanks Bill, I always wondered what that dot was for. When I get home I will have to check my tires. Bob

Digger, I think Yankee is looking for the cover. TCPARTS does have the levers and they are very reasonable. I think but there is a ginger cover (housing) on eBay, search for item number 320701205571. TCPARTS will have the covers also but don't know what he would charge. Bob

In glove compartment in the upper left corner. Says "TRUNK".

Yes that is the correct service manual for the 3.0 engine. There is one for sale on eBay item number 271539565951 no bids yet and closes tomorrow. Current price is $19.99 and $12.35 shipping.

Depending on your engine determines which service manual you want to get. If you have the 3.0 engine you want the red Bishko manual. If you have the 2.2 SOHC you want the blue manual. If you have the 16V engine either book will work for you as that engine is discussed in both manuals.

Digger, I want to thank you very much. The method to bring back the lettering in the tail reflector works like a champ. I did not paint all letters so the difference (before and after) could be seen. Thanks again. Bob

You don't need to remove the tail light from the car. In the trunk peel back the trunk liner from the velcrow and you will have access to the back side of the tail light. There are 2 light sockets but if you feel it is necessary there are 4 bolts right there to remove the tail light.