mytc05

Thanks guys. I'm trying to avoid buying a whole new motor if at all possible since the motor was working fine before I damaged the brushes. I would assume replacing the brushes would be cheap if I can just figure out where to get them. Has anyone on here done this before? I know some people have mentioned rebuilding theirs or possibly doing it for others. It's a simple enough fix if I can just find the right brushes to pop in the motor I have that works otherwise.

So, the brushes in my top pull down motor broke when I opened the motor and closed it back up. The carbon broke off the end of the wires. It looks like a fairly easy replacement to just remove these and put new brushes on. Anyone know where to buy the correct replacement brushes for this top pulldown motor? I noticed it says 318A on the part that clips the end of the wire on to the terminal.

Okay. Thanks guys! I appreciate it!

Hello all, I'm repairing the top pull-down motor assembly (again). I did this years ago when I replaced the gear that stripped out, but the housing was a bit cracked. It worked for a bit, but then stripped the gear a bit again, and the crack got worse. We tried to repair the housing, but still not great. So, now, I'm replacing the housing with the new nylon version from the parts store and replacing the gear again as well. Already got the new housing and gear, but can't remember what grease we used the last time we repaired this? I know it's that baby-blue colored grease like the original

Hi all, Question regarding our side moldings. Someone hit the passenger door on my TC while it was parked (of course they didn't leave a note, even though there was no way they didn't know they did it). The body molding got scraped up, and the body shop feels like it is not salvageable. Not because it was damaged so bad. It's honestly just scraped off some of the paint, but he's afraid he won't be able to take it off to repaint it without bending it up really bad and ruining it. He told me I should just get a replacement. My obvious point is, if I get a replacement, that one will have to

Yep. That's what I did, although I think mine was from an old Lebaron. It fit a touch tight to where it rubs on the leather just a touch, but not bad.

Hey Hemi. Thanks for the feedback. I took your advice and we did get it apart. There was still a couple small broken sections in there from the old mast, which we have now removed. We put it all back together, but it still won't go all the way up and down. If I help it out a bit with my hand, it works fine. but it just seems to not have the oomph to do it on it's own for some reason, even though I hear the motor keep running for a few seconds after it catches when I don't help it. Everything sounds fine, just can't figure out what is preventing it from having the ability to do it all on it's o

Hey Hemi, Sorry for the delayed response. The TC is in the body shop at the moment getting a few little touchups. I'm not the Allpar writer for ya, unfortunately. I think my grandfather's dealership started back in the 60's in the St. Louis area. They started as a Plymouth dealer at first, and then not too long after added Chrysler and Dodge, and then later, of course, Jeep and Eagle. My dad also had a Chrysler dealership for a while in Southern IL. That's a heck of a Mopar in the picture above to work on! My family are all Mopar people, and they used to love the Dukes! I've heard John Sc

Thanks Reaper1! I'll try this first to get an idea before I tear into it. The weird thing is the floor behind the seat has never felt wet. Just the part in front of the passenger seat and then the trunk. I'll try this first, and then if nothing else, I guess I'll have to take the seat out and carpet up and try another hose test.

Thanks for the recommendation Hemi! Next time I've got it out on a hot day, I'm going to check this out. If the fan isn't kicking on when it should when the compressor runs, then I guess I'll take a look at the relay first and see if that fixes it. Fingers crossed I can get this pinned down soon!

Thanks Hemi. Always impressed with your knowledge of our TC's! I am not the most mechanically advanced when it comes to work on cars, though I have okay knowledge and can often get by with some guidance. Usually, when I'm posting, it's to run things by you all for your guidance, and if I get in over my head, my dad helps me with these "projects". He was a Chrysler mechanic for years and then a service manager before he owned his own dealership. My grandfather has owned a Chrysler dealership for most of his life as well. That's why sometimes my verbiage might not be the best when I'm explaining

Hi Reaper1, Picking up on this as it's still been a nagging issue on a hot day. We did end up replacing the alternator shortly after my last post, but that hasn't made any difference for this. I did take a look at the hard lines, and they seem to be in good shape. No visible tears or dry rotting on the hoses or holes in the metal portions. Any other suggestions you might have? Is there another easy way to troubleshoot the blend door or another issue that might be causing this problem in the system? Again, as long as I seem to be driving, it seems to be fine, but when I idle at a stop ligh

Hey Garnet & Gold. So, to depress the piston in order to put the caliper back on, are you saying I need to have the key in the "on" position?

Hi Hemi. Sorry for the delayed response. TC's been in storage for a few months. When my father and I replaced it a while back, we cleared out the broken track parts that we could see. My dad thinks there could be some teeth that broke off farther down in the motor possibly, but we can't see anything as it is right now. The motor assembly seems kind of delicate, and I'm afraid we might break it if we try to take it apart. Perhaps there's another issue with these that could cause it to not retract all the way back in properly?

Hey Hemi. Realized I never responded to your comment on this. Thanks for the info. We ended up just replacing the alternator with a new one, and it took care of it.