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About Reaper1

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  • Birthday 03/06/1981

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    Everett, Washington

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  1. The fuel pressure regulator should be the same for all turbo engines (at least '87-newer). Our pressure is 55psi static (no vacuum reference while running). My personal guess is that fuel sat in it and slowly degraded the diaphragm. It was on the verge of failure and it just so happened to pick the day you cleaned everything to finally fully let go. I don't think that was the cause at all. I haven't tried to access the rail and all with the radiator in. At a minimum I would think the fan has to come out. If your fingers are nimble, and your sense of touch is good, you might be able to pull the whole rail without pulling the radiator. Another option would be to pull the intake. The intake gaskets are reusable (or are supposed to be). 2 10mm bolts hold the rail to the intake. I think it's 2 8mm nuts hold the FPR to the rail. When you go to put it back together, make sure the hole for the o-ring is clean and no burrs, and lube the o-ring (I use ATF) to help it seat easier.
  2. Clean it up really well. See what documents it still has. See if it has all of the accessories (owner's manual, tool kit, umbrella). Document any rust/damage.
  3. Yup, bad fuel pressure regulator. When I saw you say "bubbles in the vacuum line" that was my immediate "go-to". This would certainly cause poor idle and surging while driving.
  4. I totally agree with Hemi. Check the vacuum lines. The hard nylon lines get brittle over time and the rubber elbow under the intake gets dry rotted.
  5. Problem #1: the top needs to stretch out. DO NOT adjust *anything* until you let the top material relax. If you can, put the soft top up, latch the rear and just let the front "dangle" over top of the front header while in the sun. Depending on the material it could be ok in a day, or a couple of days. Yes, the pull-down can be adjusted as described. As for the mechanism not working via the switch, it could be a bunch of things. Make sure there's power, then make sure it goes where it's supposed to. If both check out, you might need a new motor, or, more than likely, the gears have stripped/jammed.
  6. The only other item that I can think of off the top of my head for the 16V engines that is costly and hard to get are rod bearings. They are *not* the same as the Chrysler ones and can't be interchanged. It sounds to me like this engine is in decent shape and has been taken care of. The ones I have taken apart can't have that said about them, but in every case the main bearings are OK (standard Chrysler), but the rod bearings are either worn or the babbitt is flaking off (beyond the other catastrophic failures due to bad mechanics or owners). I have nothing to back me up, but my thinking is that most of these cars sit for long periods of time and the motor oil becomes acidic and starts eating at the babbitting. Having an oil analysis done could possibly tell you if you have bearings going out if you don't want to go through the effort of popping the pan off and physically looking at the bearing shells. Timing belts, seals, etc. are all still available, just have to do some legwork sometimes. This group is pretty good about sharing information on what interchanges, so you shouldn't have to worry about that too much. Oh, the miss sounds fairly typical, though usually it goes away with some revs. Might be a sticky injector.
  7. I think "" or something like that. I'm pretty sure there's a thread with a link, too. Even though $35 is a *LOT* for those tiny gears, the only other option I know of is getting an OEM one that will eventually fail as well. These cars (*all* turbo MOPARs) have a stumble at idle for some reason. When exactly are you experiencing the miss? Yes, the 16V cars are known to have issues with the exhaust valves and the guides. Metallurgy wasn't as good back then, so the materials used weren't as good as they should have been. Yes, getting the head rebuilt is not inexpensive and parts either have to be custom made or modified. The plus side is, once it's's done. The engines are non-interference, so as long as something catastrophic doesn't happen, the hard parts should be good for the life of the car at that point. Get a hold of Rick Diogo at RDI. Once the engine is up to snuff, really there's not much upkeep that's different compared to the 8V. It's just that the engine is so rare that people are afraid of them. The expense comes if you want to build the engine. I would highly suggest getting a new valve cover gasket from Joel. They are $150, but the new ones are a better design, use better material than the original (DO NOT throw the original away!). Between an 8V and a 16V car, I'd go 16V *EVERY* reason to really not. Plus they *will* hold their value and possibly appreciate as time goes on. TC's in general will most likely plateau in price within the next 5 years as the parts cars and beaters get weeded out.
  8. I got the core support body work done and 95% of the passenger's side fender body work done as well. I thought I was going to be able to bust out the entire engine bay this past weekend, but between my shoulder blade feeling like a flaming knife being twisted in it and the work taking longer than I anticipated (story of my life), that's as far as I got. Still happy with progress, though. My machinist was *supposed* to have gotten a hold of me, but alas...nada. I'm getting kinda antsy...
  9. Did you put the shims back under the passenger's side engine mount? Still doesn't look exactly like one, but similar. Only 2 other things that come to mind off the top of my head are: -hood guide blocks in the engine bay attached to the fenders -shift cable hold down I'm not the world's gift to cars by any means, but I'm usually pretty good at memorizing where certain components go. Having taken 3 TC's pretty much all the way apart I can't say I recall this part. Doesn't mean it doesn't belong, though!
  10. The stock mufflers are fairly quiet. They have a little bit of tone to them, but nothing to write home about. If you are interested in more sound, here's some things to keep in mind for turbo cars: bigger *is* better, and it will have a deeper tone to it the bigger you go. 3" *will* fit without rubbing, but it's tight around the rear suspension. The turbo already muffles a lot of noise, stay away from chambered mufflers (Super Turbo type is the worst acceptable type). A high flow catalytic converter won't hurt performance and reduces both sound level and drone. I have personally run both Dynomax Ultraflo and Borla XR-1. I personally like how the Borla sounds on our cars, but it's always subjective.
  11. It looks similar to one of the shims that goes on the spare tire well between the mounting tab and the body, but it's not exactly right. What have you been working on?
  12. The 8V auto cars were 160hp,/~170tq, but the 16V cars are 200hp/220tq and no power sucking auto! It should be quite a bit more peppy than the 8V car. The V6 car would probably "feel" better around town just because of the flat torque curve and its instant down low torque, but it should be on par with the 8V for performance as those were 141hp/~180tq and the 4-speed auto. The 5-speed cars are *RARE*...only 501 produced in 2 years. How much they're "worth" depends on a lot of factors, but anywhere from $4-10k isn't unreasonable, obviously the huge swing is dependent on the car's condition (I don't know what a "number 3 condition" means). From what I've seen in the pictures the car looks really nice. I'd venture to say you could easily ask $5k and get it, up to $7k. maybe. To get the upper amounts the car needs to have the umbrella and tool kit, maybe some other tid bits (FSM, hard top stand for example). You are going to want to replace the brake accumulator bulb as it looks original. Firstly, it increases safety, secondly it increases the resale value since it's been done. HTH!
  13. The pump filer (aka "sock") is in the tank. Having seen some recent posts of older cars getting their pumps replaced, it might be a good idea to replace it as well. With the new fuel having ethanol in it, that stuff loosens up dirt, varnish, etc. and clogs filters. A "stuck *open*" wastegate would cause the turbo to actually be "off" all of the time (kind of). It definitely would be down on power. The "woosh" you're hearing is the factory BOV (blow off valve) located inside of the airbox. This is also known as an "anti-surge valve". It releases excess boost pressure when the throttle blade is closed so that it doesn't back up and stall the turbo compressor (surge). For the lighting issues, that's just going to take some electrical detective work. It very well could be the switch or the connector for the switch. If you get to that point, you're going to have to pull the gauge bezel off. The trickiest part of that is getting the knob off of the headlight switch. Pull the switch out like you're turning the lights on. Where the metal shaft goes into the plastic knob, on the bottom, there's a small hole...use a pick or something similar to push in there, then pull the knob. When you do that, you're releasing a small metal tine that prevents the knob from just pulling off. You can get "aggressive" with it if you have to, but don't break the knob as they are TC specific to the best of my knowledge. From there it's kinda self explanatory how to do the rest. HTH!!
  14. The fogging is due to a film layer between the glass panes. In order to "fix" this, you have to remove the outer pane, *carefully* remove the deteriorated film, then silicone the pane back into place. I've not heard of anyone trying this, but it might also be possible to reinstall the outer pane using UV curing epoxy (smart phones use this for their screens...or some of them used to if they don't anymore).
  15. That's great to hear the car runs as it should! The stainless steel braided covers on the fuel lines are factory. They are there for abrasion protection. It does not appear that those lines have been touched, so I *highly* suggest them to be replaced. Make sure the hose you use is "Fuel Injection Hose". Pressure side is 5/16", return is 1/4". There's also a fuel filter under the car just ahead of the right rear tire with some rubber, and then again back at the tank for the pump.