Reaper1

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About Reaper1

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  • Birthday 03/06/1981

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    Everett, Washington

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  1. That seal is a problem. The reason is that it runs all the way up the A-pillar and is glued in place up there if I remember correctly. I possible solution is to find a good seal, cut it, then splice it to the upper part of yours if that is still OK. A small rubber hose that fits inside the extrusion can act as a splice. I have seen this done on OEM's, actually.
  2. I agree with Hemi. Also make sure the fuse box on the passenger's side of the engine bay isn't melted. If that motor stays on too long it has a tendency to make that circuit REALLY hot.
  3. There is a specific Chrysler "HELP!" kit for this, but it costs a few bucks more than the "universal" kit. The thing is, you need 2 kits either way!
  4. I bet that the soft top storage well has one of the drain hoses popped off. The crap part about that is that in order to get to it to fix it, you gotta basically rip the entire rear interior out. No other way to access it. This can happen if the hose is clogged and someone tried to use air to clear it. It will pop the hose off of the little nipple underneath.
  5. If you don't care about 100% originality you can try to find a J-hose that is shaped so that you can use a splice connection to your heater hose. These diverter valves are known failure points for anything that uses them (Fords do, too). You also have the option of removing the valve all together and just bypassing it. The only side effect is that you may feel heat from the driver's floor vent and the A/C might not be *as* cold. But, it's a convertible, so...meh.
  6. Polybushings might actually carry this. I know they have one version and the alternator isolator bushings, too. www.polybushings.com
  7. This is a common issue with these cars, regardless of the color. I have seen it fixed and I am going to attempt to fix one of mine possibly over the Xmas break. It takes time and patience. I condition the living crap out of the leather before I even attempt to start stretching. My theory is that leather that is soft and pliable is much easier to work with and less likely to crack or rip. I have been using 3M contact cement to re-glue it. I was able to get the defrost panel looking good again, so I am confident I can do the dash.
  8. Just so you are aware, I know the Dodge Daytona and the J-body LeBarons use the exact same reservoir. If I had to guess, I'd wager almost all of the K-based cars up to '90 use the same reservoir. P and A bodies are the only ones that might be different.
  9. Make sure the fuse box on the right side of the engine bay is OK. If the pump ran too long they have a tendency to melt the fuse box. If that is that case, then there is most likely a problem with the accumulator bulb, which should be replaced anyway if it has never been done. That's where *I* would start. I know Hemi has a LOT of experience diagnosing the Teves, so hopefully he'll chime in. Most of us have FSM's, so that has a whole section on diagnosing, repairing, etc. the Teves, if needed.
  10. I would add that there *IS* (was?) a reusable gasket for the A604 AND the A413 from the dealer that makes this job really easy. They were something like $35, BUT, you don't have to mess with RTV and they seal with no leaks provided the pan rail is flat and the screws are actually torqued. That's part of my "trick" for this job is to make sure the pan rail is absolutely flat, then use a torque wrench to evenly tighten the screws. If I do use RTV, I use either "The Right Stuff" or MOPAR ATF sealant. Both are excellent and work very well (provided the instructions are followed).
  11. That's a good suggestion! I forget about air power a lot because it hasn't been until recently that I've had a compressor at the house.
  12. Agreed, the converter will pull out of the front pump and it will leak tranny fluid. Agreed, should NOT force the engagement and yes, I have done it this way before, and yes, it sucks! Agreed, damage to the front pump seal can occur if not careful. Engine is supported by the passenger's side mount and the front mount (4-clyinder, V6 is different), but yeah, probably needs an upper support or floor jack. I figured just backing the transmission up wasn't going to allow the bolt to come out. It probably is back up behind the converter in the bellhousing and the clearance isn't enough for the head to squeeze by the body of the converter and the transmission case. A flex shaft magnet *might* be able to be worked in from the top timing window behind the converter to try and retrieve it that way.
  13. Hemi, just curious, why are you adamant about unbolting the converter from the flex plate? I can't think of a reason this is critical.
  14. So, yes, I would first pull the bottom dust cover (inspection plate) and turn the engine over by hand to see if it falls out. If not, then the next move would be to slide the transmission off of the engine to give some room in the bellhousing in relation to the ring gear and torque converter. I would make some long dowels to put in the top 2 bellhousing bolt holes for the transmission to slide on, that way the alignment stays in tact and the transmission doesn't try to fall on the ground. I would leave the torque converter bolted to the flex plate and just slide the 2 apart in the car. Gotta loosen up the engine mounts on the right side of the engine bay and the front radiator support. I suggest marking where they were located so you get the alignment of the driveline correct in the car after retrieving the bolt. That way when you put it all back together you're not chasing strange vibrations during driving and turning. I think you should be able to get a good inch of space out of moving the engine to the right and the tranny to the left. The left side transmission mount doesn't need to be messed with. Keep in mind, pulling the two apart with the TC still attached to the flexplate will pull the converter out of the front pump and most probably leak. I highly suggest NOT turning the engine in this condition as realigning the drive splines to the input shaft and the drive lugs to the front pump will be a MAJOR pain in the butt. You will also probably leak some transmission fluid. Use MOPAR ATF +4.