Reaper1

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About Reaper1

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  • Birthday 03/06/1981

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    Everett, Washington

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  1. To bleed the rear brakes the key must be on, and the brake pedal partially depressed to turn the pump on with the bleeder open on the rear caliper. Once no air is coming out (make sure that it doesn't suck the reservoir dry!), snug the bleed screw and let the pedal go. Don't let the pump run for more than about 60 seconds as it can overheat the circuit.
  2. You can use something like welding wire or a coat hanger to poke down in the hole to make sure it's not plugged. About 3/4 of the way down the hose is held to the side of the body with a clamp and may be slightly crushed. You might be able to tell if the hose is connected, too, by feel. I think the hole is too small to fit an endoscope in. Yes, water can migrate from the back of the floorboard to the front. The floor pan has grooves in it and the seat mounting braces allow it. Since it has gotten very wet, I HIGHLY suggest taking the seats and carpet out because I guarantee that the sound deadening underneath is holding moisture and it can cause wiring issues, especially for the center console as that is where the harness crosses over and there's a plug under there that can get corroded.
  3. Just to add to this, I thought I was going to be slick and go to the parts store and get the new sticker pin sheath in the HELP! section. Nope. Those don't work. Chrysler decided to use their own frigging design and I haven't seen a "fix" beyond replacement. Marty, do you have those strikers in stock, and how much?
  4. The TC uses the Chrysler Infinity sound system and the configuration is unique to the TC. The *speakers* are the same as used in other Chrysler cars with Infinity systems in them, it's just the amount of channels used. Each speaker has its own amplifier module. Over time these speakers stop working for various reasons. There's a REALLY good write up on all the different Chrysler Infinity speakers out there...it might be on Allpar. In general, your best option honestly is aftermarket stuff.
  5. You *can* take the seats off of the tracks in the car, but it's not exactly easy or fun.
  6. I found on one of the car I have messed with that the wire harness inside the door down at the bottom can come loose and chafe on the metal frame, short out and cause all kinds of issues. The one I found was on the passenger door and the damage went all the way up into the harness where it melted wires together. Somehow the car didn't burn to the ground, but it easily could have!
  7. Even though it's low mileage and low use, has it had a tune-up?
  8. Admittedly I only drove my 16V car a few blocks and started it a few times, I don't truly remember the clutch being "hard" or even significantly harder than my Shelby Z with a Turbos Unleashed "purple plate" in it. I haven't driven a stock clutch car in over a decade, but one of the big selling points of the TU clutches is the relative "lightness" of the pedal for the amount of clamping power they have. I can 100% tell you that it's much closer to stock than a dual diaphragm plate that is like pressing on a brick wall. Anyway, my point here is I don't remember the pedal being all that bad. It's certainly no hydraulic clutch, but I don't like those for lack of feel. You could see about fitting a hydraulic set-up to the arm. I have seen it done a few times over the years.
  9. Yeah, gonna guess burnt cable as well...
  10. Band adjustment, filter/fluid change on the transmission. Coolant flush Brake fluid flush
  11. I haven't...YET. I did fix the CHMSL (ET) by using an LED strip I had from a motorcycle. Worked MUCH better and was MUCH brighter than the old incandescent setup that was a power hog and prone to corrosion.
  12. As others have said, $1400 is actually a decent price for a full R&R of an A604 with all new guts. All other advice is right on and I have nothing better to add.
  13. There's a thread on here regarding NEW valve cover gaskets that were made by a member/owner. They are very good quality and better than the stock ones IMHO. Joel is his first name (I can't remember his last name now). You can sometimes find them listed on eBay.
  14. I am 99% sure that the TC uses its own spring rates. Having said that, something like a LeBaron or Spirit would probably be close. Daytona's and Shadows will probably be a bit stiffer. I'd say stay away from the "longer" cars (Dynasty, etc.) as they would probably be "soft", but the free length would be such that it might lift the car. I don't honestly know how many spring rates between all of the cars there are, but I *CAN* tell you that left to right are typically different from the factory, so be sure to know which one goes on what side.
  15. Need to have it scanned so you can see if it's throwing any codes. It could be as simple as a sensor or a plug, or as bad as a busted snap ring needing a total rebuild.