Reaper1

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About Reaper1

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  • Birthday 03/06/1981

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Everett, Washington

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  1. Yeah, it looks like the compressor did make some contact with the housing. My personal suggestion is to go through Chris at Turbos Unleashed. Great customer service, vendor that supports our community, great warranty, competitive pricing. As for aftermarket options: none that are direct bolt-on that I'm aware of.
  2. OK, first thing...you are trying to remove the turbo due to suspecting it being bad, right? From this picture I'd venture to say that the turbo isn't the problem. Of course pictures and diagnosing a complex mechanical system usually don't go hand in hand, but, hear me out. I'm specifically looking at the turbine wheel. Number 1, it's dry. It's not caked with carbon or oil and it's not tinted green from coolant. Number 2, it doesn't appear that the turbine wheel has contacted the housing. There's no clear marks and the blade tips look good. Yes, the housing looks like it's slightly damp with oil residue, but that doesn't mean it's the turbo. If you grab the hub of the turbine, does it move in any direction other than simply spinning? If not, I wouldn't pull the turbo as most likely it's not the issue. As for removing those turbo bolts...I've personally never gotten them off without cutting or snapping them. Even on an engine stand this isn't fun.
  3. I finally started sanding the engine bay last night after a couple of "false starts". I got about 1/3 of it done thus far.
  4. OK, I'll bite on this one...why not ATF? I've used it before with no ill effects noted. Of course that's "short term".
  5. Oily residue on the pulley side of the engine could be a number of things. Starting at the top of the engine: valve cover gasket, cam seals, head gasket (not likely), power steering pump, intermediate shaft seal, front crank seal, oil pan gasket. My go-to move is to clean everything as best as I can and make sure it's DRY. After starting/driving the car I inspect from the top down to try and pinpoint where the leak is coming from. When you go to remove the turbo from the manifold, use penetrating oil and heat....LOTS of both! This is also the only turbo-mopar that uses a gasket between the turbo and the manifold. Since you've gotten that far, can you reach in and touch/spin the turbine and/or compressor wheels? If so, do they spin freely? Is there any movement of the wheels besides just spinning? Is there any oil residue in the exhaust or intake?
  6. As stated, the boxy looking plastic part is a trim cover for around the trunk latch. The "C" shaped plastic part is a trim part for the seat track. I suspect that the hanging terminals are for an aftermarket CD player.
  7. I unfortunately don't think I'm going to make it to SDAC this year. I've got a lot on my plate and time/funds aren't aligning. I am planning to make it next year, though.
  8. No, the car doesn't need an oil catch can. The V6 PCV system is pretty simple and works well as long as the engine has been taken care of. There are baffles inside of the rocker covers that are integral to the system and if they get clogged it'll push oil out everywhere. The PCV filter is in the air box and it has an open hose as a vent.
  9. I messed up all 3 of the fittings that would normally be on the Teves. I just couldn't get those suckers to budge! So, I have to cut off the ends, slide new fittings on, and re-flare. Yes, the 24mm master cylinder is for 4-wheel disc cars. The smaller 21mm is the one that doesn't work with the 11" brakes (found out the hard way many many years ago!). I may need to get Rick in touch with you.
  10. Is it a V6 or a 16V 4-cylinder? Neither *need* a catch can, honestly, but they are two completely different animals...
  11. Hemi, I have absolutely NO intentions of putting the Teves back in the car! I even went so far as to completely remove ALL of the wiring from the new engine bar harness. I already have a booster that I've detailed up nicely and a new 24mm master cylinder waiting to be bench bled and painted. I am going to be installing the whole 11" brake package. Only part I'm currently missing (and waiting on delivery) is the proportioning valve. I am going to re-do the engine bay so it looks nicer. I have a "surprise" I have planned...
  12. I finally got the Teves booster out, and the rest of the engine bay wiring. I finished cleaning the bay this weekend...now to make it look nice! That brake booster did NOT want to come out of the car! I used my *good* line wrenches and a few tricks...nope. I STILL had to bust out the vice grips and ended up totally screwing the fittings. Yay...so I get to put new flares on...ugghh...
  13. It's an automatic car, so 8V. It looks to be in decent shape, and the interior is even fairly nice. $800 is NP! Buy it!