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About Reaper1

  • Birthday 03/06/1981

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  1. Continued the speaker install tonight. I forgot the dash speakers had their own bass limiting capacitors, so I had to take them back out and get that sorted out. No biggie. I used trim adhesive to reapply the sound director foam to the two storage compartment speakers. I think eventually I will get the foam to put behind them, too because right now they are basically free air, and that won't make for good mid response at all. It will still be better than nothing, though. I also got the adapter harness all soldered up for the head unit, so that will be ready to install very shortly, too. It's getting closer!!!
  2. J&J Auto Wrecking on eBay. They price wasn't bad, and I did get what I paid for. I have no complaints there. I have looked at the pictures again they took (they did a good job where you can see the reflections and all) so, I truly think something happened in transit. Again, it is still a better part than what is on the car, so, going to roll with it for now. They have a white hood as well it looks like.
  3. So, I have collected a BUNCH of parts and now it's time to do the work! I started replacing the speakers today. Got 3 of those in. Gotta do the head unit wiring. I'll get the other dash speaker in tomorrow and then I can put the entire dash back together! I'm excited to do that! I also got some butyl tape, so I can reinstall the vapor barriers on the doors properly. Got the lock rod retainers to fix the driver's side power lock. I sourced the correct spark plugs, so now I have all the stuff to revamp the secondary ignition. While I have that stuff out I am going to repaint the valve cover and intake, so that should look nice again. The hood came in today, and...well...I think something either got put on it during shipping, or fell on it, but it's not as straight as it is in the pictures. I will say I was VERY impressed with the way the part was packed. It came on a pallet with nice sides on it, and it was totally wrapped in bubble wrap. The only thing they could have done more was put a top on it. It *IS* better than what is on the car, which is bent, so I will sill install it. Since the hood isn't down during shows anyways, I'm not going to sweat it too much, but it does push me to go with my original plan. Guess I need to really scope out local suppliers. The last BIG thing to do is get the A/C working. It technically DID work, but the lines don't hold 134a...you can see the oil seep through little pinholes! I've been looking up A/C hoses, fittings, and tools...we'll see. I am SO excited to get back to driving it! Oh, I got the hard top stand, too. It's pretty nice. Gotta say, for less than $120 shipped AND it comes with a cover...it's a nice product.
  4. Happy "F King George III" day!
  5. I just got mine not too long ago off of eBay for I think $25.
  6. I think it's 1/8" loom I used. NOT the plastic convoluted stuff! This stuff is like the "Chinese Finger Trap". I like those holders. I need to get my 3D printer...then I can actually fix it!
  7. OK...YOLO'd...got a nice Pioneer head unit and all Infinity Reference speakers coming. I want to get this thing back on the road while the weather is nice dang it!
  8. The rear caliper pistons retract with the use of a hex screw in the back of the caliper. There's a little plug you take out, then you can retract the piston as long as the mechanism isn't stuck.
  9. I would NOT try to build that hose myself. I'm not even sure I would trust a brake hose that would "fit" simply because of where it is in the system. What Hemi suggested is probably the best bet, honestly.
  10. Ah, you updated the post! I didn't see the picture before. So the picture is the old "stub-strut" style. If your control arm are stamped like the ones in that picture, but have 2 pivots instead, then that is the ones that need the larger rear bushing and the smaller front bushing. The set for 1990 cars will work (PB1020).
  11. While trying to decide what to do about the stereo, I figured I would knock out a little bit of other work. Doyle needs a basic tune-up and I'd already gotten some of the things needed. One of them is plug wires. While technically not "bad", the ones on it are original, and one has been snacked on by some rodent or another (seems common as I've seen another person that had the same exact issue), so I got some replacements from RDI. Unfortunately red was not available. I decided to try and overcome that because I REALLY like the red wires on that engine...it just looks SWEET. So, I got some red expandable wire loom and installed that over the cables. I *could* have gotten away with only doing the amount that you can see, and that probably would have given me enough to do all 4, but I wanted to do the whole length, so I found out the hard way that 10 feet will only do 3 wires! Oops...oh well...ordered another pack. I even went as far as to take the boot off the distributor end so I could slide the sheathing on the cable AND shrink wrap it on both ends! It looks REALLY good! Little tip for getting those boots off, use some silicone spray. Man that makes it SO easy! I've fought with those things in the past...wish I woulda known that trick before! So...that's where I'm at so far...
  12. Well, the saga continues with the stereo in Doyle. My original plan was to get a newer factory tape/cd player unit and use that because it would be of the correct era and do all the things needed, BUT, my plans have been foiled. While waiting on the new antenna mast, I decided to check to see if the head units I was attempting to use were even any good. I had my '90 Daytona just sitting there and it has no stereo in it currently, so I figured I could use that. 3 out of 3 head units produced NO sound! Well, the newest one tried, but obviously has an issue and doesn't work correctly. I tried a CD due to the tuner not being hooked up to an antenna (my antenna wire in the 90 is lost behind the dash someplace! LOL). 2 of the head units would read the CD, but no sound, and the 3rd wouldn't even read the CD. I'm kinda bummed because I REALLY wanted a factory head unit in there, but, it's not to be, I suppose. Newer aftermarket stuff *is* better, but it's the look I was really wanting. Oh well. Guess Doyle is going to get a new Pioneer. I won't be adding amps and all to this car.
  13. I have 2 TC's and the other is BOUND to break at some point! $75 of the OEM one I found listed. The PN you gave came up at around $40 *if* you can find it. Hate to say it, but manufacturers are FORCING obsolescence on us, deliberately not continuing to make parts to FORCE consumerism.
  14. A few of reasons. First, I didn't have that part number you just posted (which doesn't match what is on Marty's site, he lists 4469342B) and I DID look. Second was cost. While I do agree the OEM part is the BEST option, and at this point I would break even on it if I'd just gotten it first, it isn't exactly "cheap". Third, there aren't that many OEM ones left...EVENTUALLY supply *will* run out and folks are going to NEED to know what options they have (including me), so I am chalking it up to a "learning experience" and hoping it helps others as I go.
  15. I want to say I tried that, but it didn't work. I figured it was because of the way the relay works, but whichever. I think it's kinda lazy that they don't include the wiring options for the Chrysler setups because there are still TONS of them out there. If it isn't raining tomorrow I might give your wiring a go again, just to verify. I know the unit works because I DID get it to deploy and retract using the power directly at the battery.
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