Reaper1

@marty14I suppose I owe you an apology. It looks like the PN that is on my axles is the one you posted. It looks like maybe they marked them wrong in the book as TII, because they are DEFINITELY 16V. For what it's worth I did just try to cross reference the PN listed in your post at all the major auto parts stores online and got 0 returns. Even a Google search got me nothing. Yay...ugghhh...

OK, sorry I've been MIA. Life was going on. Anyways, I FINALLY found my spare axles, but unfortunately they have the same issue...outer boots are trash. BUT, this did allow me to get measurements and markings. Firstly, they are DEFINITELY GKN. The large part is 3.5" (88mm), the small part is 1.12" (28mm) roughly 3.7" long (94mm) 3 bellows. The only markings on it are: GKN, England and 86 87 88. The clamps also had some markings. Small one: GKN A08754-010 34 Large one: 102 For reference, the smaller boot is also GKN. Large part is 3.33" (85mm) Small part is 1.12" (28mm) roughly 3.4" long (85mm) 3 bellows No markings other than the GKN. The axle itself is has PN 4425009 (also marked England) Maybe that helps?

Marty14, my car is a 16V car. They use different axles, including the outer CV it appears. I had already bought the larger of the CV boots for the TII and it doesn't appear to be large enough.

Hemi Dude, I will have to get back under the car and take some pictures. I don't think mine looks like that what you PMd me.

It's been a while since I posted. Life and other reasons. Anyways, I was doing some work to my '89 16V car and noticed the outer CV boot on the one side has just started to fail. I have asked Rick, AJ and Jackson if they know of a replacement PN, but they do not. I also did a search before posting this question and nothing comes up for the 16V cars (they use unique axles). I don't know if Hemi or anyone else might know. I can say with 99% certainty that the TII boots will not work. They are too small in diameter. I have a spare set of axles someplace, but I can't seem to find them right now. Thanks for any help.

I guess with shipping that's not bad. Anymore shipping SUCKS!!

You are in northern Georgia aren't you?

I think I have a thread either separate or it is the Rosa thread, but not 100%. I only have a few pictures of me "bench" testing it on the ground so far. I think maybe I took pictures of the wiring. I did everything in parallel and it is all done as close to factory as possible. I scored an entire donor car harness and all, so I surgically spliced in what is needed to run the electronic controls. The hardest part was that my actual electro-vacuum module was dead, but I was lucky to score a NOS one. I also have the electronic dash spliced in, even though they didn't want to do electronic gages in this car. I think it is befitting of the era. I need to finish up the modifications to the front bezel to accommodate the selection buttons, but other than that it's ready to be installed. So, I can swap the car back to a regular cluster and regular HVAC if the need/want ever arises.

You almost have to strip the interior. Seats come out. Best if center console comes out. Door sill trim. Stainless door threshold trim. Interior side trim (at least loose to get to the one mounting screw), then there's screws in the top well and inside the compartment itself. Once you get them all loose...it comes out. There will probably be spacers on the mounts that go to the top well, just be aware. Oh, don't forget the wires for the light and switch as well as the pull cables for the tonneau latches on both sides.

How much did it run you?

OK...I FINALLY got a working combination with the LEDs! It took a bit of fiddling, trying different combinations of flashers, but I got a combination that works! So, at least for my '89, leave the stock silver one in place on the fuse block and use the one that shelbyone suggested above in place of the yellow flasher that is tucked up under the dash. I tied the ground in with the common ground down by the driver's left foot. It works as advertised! I do like the way the LED bulbs light up the housing. It has a much more even "warmth" to it and of course it is instant. That makes the last things to fix on the car are the A/C lines and the transmission (3/4 synchro is SHOT, but it can still drive fine...spare will be going in). This passed Friday I cruised home, top down, Pandora playing and the map application running through Blue Tooth...it was beautiful! I got an invitation to a local car club that has 2 TC's in it. One is a red '91 owned by Bill Sheffer, whom I have tried to reach out to, and I am unsure of the other. I can't make their monthly meet up in October due to work unfortunately. There's a show this coming weekend I am going to try to go to as well. We shall see!

OK, I ordered the one that was suggested above...we'll see. After that, I give up.

Welp, got the flasher unit from SuperBrightLEDs...aaaaannnnnddddd......NOPE! WTF!? How can a solid state flasher give a crap about the load!? Works fine with regular bulbs, but as soon as you take even 1 bulb out...no workie. I am getting frustrated and those bulbs were expensive. Grrrrr...

Oh man!! I LOVE those switch panels! LOL Release the Kraken! LMAO!! Epic!

Oh, so update...I got the electronic flasher in today...NOPE! Still didn't fix the issue. I even jumpered the connectors backwards at the fuse block as the seller indicated some cars are wired backwards. Still...nope. Works great with regular bulbs. I just ordered ANOTHER flasher from SuperbrightLEDS...I kinda trust them as they know LED stuff pretty well (been around for a LONG time), even though they don't list the correct cornering light for the TC. I REALLY don't want to cut into the harness to put resistors in just for stupid LED's.