Reaper1

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About Reaper1

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  • Birthday 03/06/1981

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    Male
  • Location:
    Everett, Washington

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  1. Reaper1

    Wipers

    Most likely the wiper arm bushings are degraded. They are the same as LeBaron's and can be had through Doorman at parts stores, etc. It is advisable to take the entire assembly out to do this task.
  2. Reaper1

    Another one bites the dust

    Truthfully the shipping is going to be expensive no matter what. I was thinking about that the other day. The bumper covers are made of a type of harder urethane/plastic and tend to be brittle. So, in order to ship it without it getting broken it will have to go in a large, solid container of some kind. The cost for the bumper cover...yeah, that's a bit much. Even if it includes the actual bumper, mounts, reverse lights, and tag lights. Here's a question, will the insurance company pay for it? If so, get the best one you can!
  3. Reaper1

    Another one bites the dust

    Arizona Parts might also be able to help.
  4. Reaper1

    89 TC 8 valve needs turbo

    What is your goal for the car? The Garrett turbo on a 2.2 has a decent amount of lag, but pulls OK at the top end. This makes the car feel like an on/off switch. The Mitsubishi turbo on a 2.2 is more responsive, but objectively doesn't pull as hard up top. In order to swap to a Mitsubishi turbo you have to change the oil and coolant feed/return lines as well. Other than that it's a bolt-on. It will support and make the stock power and then some, but they run out of breath around 14psi (which is around the limit of the stock fueling anyway). I would also suggest a custom calibration to go with it to maximize what the turbo can do. Turbo's aren't hard to rebuild, but due to how difficult it is to do on our cars, warranty, and the fact you aren't feeling too good about doing it up front, I highly recommend buying a rebuilt unit.
  5. Reaper1

    Passenger Door Will Not Open

    Let me take a stab. The actuator rods have burlap sheaths on them that are supposed to act as both rattle prevention and as a type of "sleeve". Over time that stuff degrades and bunches up. I'm thinking that some of that stuff is preventing the mechanism from moving freely. The electric actuator actually moves a different lever on the latch. Unfortunately even with the window down you can't really see in there, so the best bet is to take the door panel off and mess around with it that way.
  6. Reaper1

    89 TC 8 valve needs turbo

    You can get the turbo rebuilt or a new one. Contact Chris at Turbos Unleashed: www.turbosunleashed.com
  7. Reaper1

    More brake issues

    It's a Teves III system. The Buick Reatta uses the same system. I think the Ford Thunderbird Turbocoupe also uses a version of it.
  8. Reaper1

    seat control buttons

    As Hemi said, the plastic caps on the floor under the seat have phillips screws that hold them on at the back (they are almost parallel to the floor). The cover on the "outside" track can be tricky to get out. There's 2 13mm nuts in the back, and *3* 13mm bolts at the front. Then of course the electrical connector. This is a GREAT time to clean and lubricate the base mechanism. The original grease gets hard and crap gets stuck in it and jams the mechanism.
  9. Reaper1

    seat control buttons

    You have to take the console out.
  10. This engine is ~7.8:1 compression (there's different specs listed in different references). Static compression is going to show low. Especially if the engine is cold and hasn't been run in a while. DO NOT try to spray oil in the cylinders to get better numbers as the dish is so large on the pistons all you're going to do is make a pool of oil in the dish. I highly doubt the entire engine needs rebuilt. I *DO* suggest looking at the rod bearings, but as for the rest of the bottom end...unless it got rusty or trash went through it, it's most likely fine. The heads are known to have a few things go bad. #1 are the exhaust valves and guides. The metallurgy wasn't exactly the best then and these items can both cause burning oil. If you have out of round valves, that can attribute to lower static compression. Since the car can now be put on a rack, I suggest taking the exhaust downpipe off of the turbo and seeing if it's got oil in it as well as checking the play in the turbo compressor shaft. Do a leakdown check before you tear the engine apart.
  11. I will hold back on any more guesses until test results are back. Too many possibilities.
  12. Reaper1

    Heater Core

    Nah, not ATC. I have a box ready to go for that in mine. There's no control unit in this one. NOW I see it I think! That's the plug for the thermo switch in the condenser. That started in 1990. Earlier cars didn't have that. It works in conjunction with the pressure switch on the H-valve to prevent the A/C from freezing up.
  13. You already did a compression test, which looks OK to me (consider these engines are really low compression). What did the spark plugs look like? You can pull the intake hose off of the compressor side of the turbo and see if there's any play in the wheel or oil in the intake hose. I highly recommend a leak-down test as that will tell you exactly what you need to know. You can also rent a test kit that tests the coolant for exhaust to determine if the headgasket is blown. Another quick check is, once the engine is up to operating temp, are there bubbles being blown into the coolant? Last thing...when does the smoke occur?
  14. Reaper1

    Ding, ding, ding

    Probably was just condensation.
  15. Reaper1

    Heater Core

    The electrical plug is for the blower motor. It should plug into the two capacitors and I think those go to the blower resistor that's to the right. I don't remember about the A/C gaskets...looks right.