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ghostymosty

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About ghostymosty

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  • Birthday 07/25/1962

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  1. I was working at a parts store when you could still get wiper inserts for Anco and Trico instead of having to buy whole blades every time. I noticed that hardly any wiper inserts or blades sold unless it was pouring rain outside. One of the first questions I would ask is if the car had ever had the entire blade replaced especially with Bosch items. If not then the choice on inserts was either wide or narrow and what kind of clip to hold it on the blade, if so then it was whole blade replacement time again. Then there were the ones who claimed to have never changed the whole blade but the car
  2. My friend who was a transmission rebuilder for the local Chrysler dealer informed me that most of the early trans failures could be attributed to top offs done by people who used non Mopar fluid of the incorrect type. This would usually destroy these transmissions in a short time. When he rebuilt these transmissions he would educate the owners about the correct fluid and do the wire snip on the very early transmission controllers, he never had one of these come back to him with problems. He would also never use any aftermarket fluid in these transmissions. The original owner of my triple
  3. The rear seats look like standard New Yorker pattern while the front look like 300 pattern. The front seats were likely swapped.
  4. I can remember 'HOT PINK' being quite the thing around the late 60's and very early 70's. Not quite so much in cars, though.
  5. Could be Mary Kay, right shade of pink. At the auction I work at (til next monday) all pink Mary Kay Cadillacs are required to be repainted white before they can be put in a sale. This one has lots of pink overspray on the wiper area and a black engine compartment and tonneau but a white hardtop so any claims of original paint for rarity can just be thrown out the window.
  6. If I remember correctly, those two switches are the exact same as the door lock switches. Possibly the same as the window switches as well. Any momentary switch can be used to test if you get power and they still don't work. Check your fuses first, check for ground after the switch second and let us know the results.
  7. Make sure reservoir starts at full level. Looking at my service manual, you must turn the rear bleeder screw at least one full turn open and with the ignition in 'run' position FIRMLY depress the brake pedal after the pump stops running, if the pump doesn't run there will be no pressure to the rear brakes. Just cracking the bleeder screws open won't work. Make sure the reservoir never drops below the minimum level, it will empty fast. To know when the air is out you need to have a hose attached to the bleeder screw and the other end in a jar of fresh fluid to see when no more bubbles come ou
  8. probably a light staying on in trunk, spare tire compartment, under hood, etc. Try going out after dark and see if there is light shining through anywhere. If not then the easy way is to pull one fuse at a time and see when the battery drain stops. The squiggly under hood light wire is a common culprit for damaged areas that may be grounding out and draining the battery without a light being on, seat wiring under the carpet is another one of those.
  9. Which brake hose was replaced? The rear brake system has a special bleeding procedure, the front is the normal procedure. Agree to make sure the brake pump turns on first, without it you will have no boost at all. There is a relay/fuse box near the passenger front wheel that tends to burn out wiring on the bottom if the pump runs too long.
  10. I think you are describing the 89 hardtop seal, like in this photo. I think the 90 and 91 have the separate body color trim that can be seen going around the outside lower rear edge of the hardtop. The 89 has the black trim that is attached to the seal itself, the two dangling pieces in photo.
  11. At least it looks like GM fixed the issue of the odometer not being visible for more than a split second without jumping through hoops with a bunch of button pushes. As an auction photographer I REALLY hated that since every car needed a photo of the odometer. And I tell coworkers that if they hear me call something a "German Car" then I am really cussing it out for technology issues.
  12. This diagram should be able to save a few TC's from being parted out before their time. Can someone make this post a sticky on the forum?
  13. Just thought I'd bump this up into a recent post date for those who have never explored the forum to see it. Just notice that the red/black/black numbers were missing from this web page. Not my numbers, just a copy, paste, reformat for this sites screen.
  14. And I have to correct myself on the black TC. Today at work I remembered that these cars have an anti-chip coating on the rocker panels that gives a pebbly finish, that is what I am seeing on the black one vs the smoother concrete finish that I thought should be reflected. That is why an in person inspection is needed on these cars to verify flaws or not flaws. Both those prices seem high to me but I'm a cheapskate who wouldn't drive a manual trans in SoCal since I would wear the clutch out fast with all the stop and go (and I like to power shift for fun!) If you are 2 to 3 thousand over what
  15. The triple black on ebay looks like one I would stay away from. I see quite a few little 'fixes' that were done improperly and have caused damage. Examples are reglue of the hardtop lower trim on the sides, looks like adhesive got away from someone. High miles on an odometer with zeros on the tripmeter would require checking that the tripmeter actually works to put away thoughts of super high mileage on the car. One of the doors shows that the stainless insert has been cut short. Underhood has rusting fasteners and areas that are nearly impossible to clean show evidence of possible salt spray
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