ghostymosty

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About ghostymosty

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    former TC owner, now 2013 Nissan Leaf owner
  • Birthday 07/25/1962

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  • Location:
    Riverside, CA

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  1. Curly wire for hood lamp is a common culprit, as is the light inside the spare tire compartment behind the seats. Wiring under the carpet for the seats, console light, and ashtray lighter is another place to look but requires removing seats.
  2. To bleed the rears you need a helper in the car pushing/holding the brake pedal down (not pumping) with the key turned 'on', the brake pump should then push fluid to the rear brakes. Don't let the reservoir go dry, it empties quickly with the bleeders open. Bleeding the front should be the same as any other car. If the fronts aren't getting fluid I think you need to verify the brake pump is actually working, if not it is commonly an electrical issue at the relay box.
  3. Wow, I just wish the bank account was bigger right now! I'm sure I would need to spend at least double the asking price to get it to just a daily driver condition but then I would have something to take to weekend cruises again. Being in Riverside, CA means it is not that far away from me but I don't think my Nissan Leaf would be too great for towing it!
  4. Flipping for profit is NOT something to be seriously considered with a TC, at least for quite a few more years. Asking prices are going up but selling prices that I have seen are pretty much stagnant and selling a TC can take a long time. That particular TC looks nice for the price but make sure the brakes are functioning well, they are repairable but costly.
  5. I kept wondering why you didn't do a freeze frame mugshot for the camera but then at the end, I saw it. But what were you holding up?
  6. It sold at an undervalued price, but buyers were limited by being offered on copart.
  7. At RockAuto look under the Dodge, 1989, Daytona, 2.2L, Electrical switch and relay, Radiator fan relay This listing shows both the possible radiator fan relays. Looking under the 1990 Daytona or TC 3.0L only shows one of these.
  8. Or the pump has to compensate for the bad accumulator by running way too often, you will hear the pump run or feel pulsing in the brake pedal in some cases.
  9. Some of the manuals are actually missing pages, I don't have my red manual anymore so can't be so helpful as to give you a page number. Also, some 90-91 cars came with the rectangular silver relay and some with the nearly square black relay, just depends on the wire harness supplier at the time.
  10. Maybe the rear window defrost wiring would work for you.
  11. April fools joke, Chrysler TC in yellow and the Scion tC in the pic.........Just remove the glass in the Scion roof!
  12. Do you have an air bubble in the engine coolant passages? The temp sensor works on liquid temperature but I don't think it will register any temp from air around it.
  13. You need to run a 12volt source to a switch in the car (add on) and then to the fan. Just turn the fan on with the switch when you run the car and you can check whether any of your engine work is the culprit. That is the 'old school' fix for electric fan issues when the fan is still good. People with bad memories for hitting the switch would run the 12volt from an 'ignition on' source but I wouldn't recommend that unless the source only works a relay that lets the 12 volts in from somewhere else (sounds like the factory setup) so you don't force too much current through the computer.
  14. Check for breaks in the wires, or a melted section, in the car side of the pigtail up and around the engine bay up to the relay. I assume the wires after the connector on the fan side are good if that is where you hooked battery power to test the fan motor itself. I am also assuming the fan doesn't run when you turn the a/c on.
  15. Look up the 90 Daytona on Rock Auto and it will show both this relay and the black cube relay, just make sure the blade locations match yours and the values on the diagram on the part if you can still read yours.