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ghostymosty

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About ghostymosty

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  • Birthday 07/25/1962

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  • Location:
    Riverside, CA

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  1. This diagram should be able to save a few TC's from being parted out before their time. Can someone make this post a sticky on the forum?
  2. Just thought I'd bump this up into a recent post date for those who have never explored the forum to see it. Just notice that the red/black/black numbers were missing from this web page. Not my numbers, just a copy, paste, reformat for this sites screen.
  3. And I have to correct myself on the black TC. Today at work I remembered that these cars have an anti-chip coating on the rocker panels that gives a pebbly finish, that is what I am seeing on the black one vs the smoother concrete finish that I thought should be reflected. That is why an in person inspection is needed on these cars to verify flaws or not flaws. Both those prices seem high to me but I'm a cheapskate who wouldn't drive a manual trans in SoCal since I would wear the clutch out fast with all the stop and go (and I like to power shift for fun!) If you are 2 to 3 thousand over what
  4. The triple black on ebay looks like one I would stay away from. I see quite a few little 'fixes' that were done improperly and have caused damage. Examples are reglue of the hardtop lower trim on the sides, looks like adhesive got away from someone. High miles on an odometer with zeros on the tripmeter would require checking that the tripmeter actually works to put away thoughts of super high mileage on the car. One of the doors shows that the stainless insert has been cut short. Underhood has rusting fasteners and areas that are nearly impossible to clean show evidence of possible salt spray
  5. There don't seem to be many non-yellow or red TC's for sale in So Cal these days. Sometimes I think about getting another TC but I just can't see going over 3500 for one when I know the work they'll need. That puts me out of the running for the 'never selling' TC's listed around the dealer sites or the 'me too' pricing on the craigslist and offer up ones. White/ginger V6 would be my preferred combination but the Cabernet/Bordeaux (spelling of French words is crazy, the double dose of wine) with woodgrain might just get me into a turbo 89.
  6. The paint color is usually referred to as 'turbine bronze' and was a standard Chrysler corp color in the mid to late 60's. Was very impressive with black roof and trim.
  7. The pages in the blue manual that show the actual wire diagram for the door courtesy lights are on 8w74 and 8w75. Looks like the pink wire M1 18PK comes off of fuse #6 and at splice M1 splits off to the mirror and sunvisor lights as well as the trunk and tire compartment lights. Make sure those work (trunk check for good bulb) to rule out that fuse cavity in the fuse block. Fuses can look good but actually be bad or the wires into the fuse block can be burned/melted or just not making good contact with the fuse. The same pink wire also goes to the door mirror, check that too. If you are foll
  8. I have seen a few early 90's that have the hardtop side latches. For those owners who always have the hardtop on, the latches can give a sense of security that the top will be held on if the rear latches become problematic. They really don't do much other than snug the weatherstrip against the car but can be added to the body if the hardtop is changed to one that is made for the latches.
  9. Maybe the car is stunningly beautiful and he only wants a buyer that wants it enough to go look at it in person. Has been known to happen.
  10. As my observation, I prefer the AMX over the Marlin but the GT Hawk (or any Hawk 2dr hdtp) over the Avanti. My Grandfather was an Indiana Studebaker man for decades but never found one better to his liking than the 53 dr hdtp that the family dubbed the yellow butterfly. His last was a mid 60's (64 or 65)wagon that he didn't replace until 71 with a Torino sedan.
  11. Paint mixed specifically for plastic should contain a flex additive that is needed for bumpers that can flex upon slight impact and then go back to their original shape without cracking the paint. Non flexing parts of the car don't need that additive. Mirrors should use regular body paint since they don't flex. Different body materials can also cause a slight color difference even when painted at the same time, sealer and primer of different shades used under the paint can mitigate that difference to a large degree.
  12. I absolutely LOVE that ad! Even the key words were a good read. But, alas, I'm not going to be the hero in this story. 🤣
  13. I recommend doing a search on this forum, ignoring Hemi's posts since he tends to recommend removing the system, and you will find many suggestions from checking the Teves brakes when looking to buy a TC, how to service a properly operating system, to diagnosing a malfunction. If you want to replace the system with conventional non abs power brakes then research Hemi's posts on the matter, he does know what he is talking about. You should also research the Buick Reatta forum on their Teves brake system where I believe this info is already in compiled form.
  14. But you are doing a better job with the list than I would have been able to during the last few years, don't sell yourself short on that!
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