ghostymosty

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About ghostymosty

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  • Birthday 07/25/1962

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    Riverside, CA

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  1. The paint color is usually referred to as 'turbine bronze' and was a standard Chrysler corp color in the mid to late 60's. Was very impressive with black roof and trim.
  2. The pages in the blue manual that show the actual wire diagram for the door courtesy lights are on 8w74 and 8w75. Looks like the pink wire M1 18PK comes off of fuse #6 and at splice M1 splits off to the mirror and sunvisor lights as well as the trunk and tire compartment lights. Make sure those work (trunk check for good bulb) to rule out that fuse cavity in the fuse block. Fuses can look good but actually be bad or the wires into the fuse block can be burned/melted or just not making good contact with the fuse. The same pink wire also goes to the door mirror, check that too. If you are following along with the wire diagram, you should see how to follow the wires to each item they power. Just do that for every item in the wire diagram. When the diagram refers to page 66 for the trunk lamp it means the number Q66 on the bottom of the page. Brake lights may just be the brake light switch on the brake pedal assembly, push this by hand to see if the brake lights illuminate, if so then it needs adjusting toward the brake pedal arm. If the turn signals illuminate normally then the brake light switch probably needs replacing. The illuminated entry system is also tied in to the door courtesy light wires but the little round key light in the door usually doesn't work, at least I haven't seen many that do.
  3. I have seen a few early 90's that have the hardtop side latches. For those owners who always have the hardtop on, the latches can give a sense of security that the top will be held on if the rear latches become problematic. They really don't do much other than snug the weatherstrip against the car but can be added to the body if the hardtop is changed to one that is made for the latches.
  4. Maybe the car is stunningly beautiful and he only wants a buyer that wants it enough to go look at it in person. Has been known to happen.
  5. As my observation, I prefer the AMX over the Marlin but the GT Hawk (or any Hawk 2dr hdtp) over the Avanti. My Grandfather was an Indiana Studebaker man for decades but never found one better to his liking than the 53 dr hdtp that the family dubbed the yellow butterfly. His last was a mid 60's (64 or 65)wagon that he didn't replace until 71 with a Torino sedan.
  6. Paint mixed specifically for plastic should contain a flex additive that is needed for bumpers that can flex upon slight impact and then go back to their original shape without cracking the paint. Non flexing parts of the car don't need that additive. Mirrors should use regular body paint since they don't flex. Different body materials can also cause a slight color difference even when painted at the same time, sealer and primer of different shades used under the paint can mitigate that difference to a large degree.
  7. I absolutely LOVE that ad! Even the key words were a good read. But, alas, I'm not going to be the hero in this story. 🤣
  8. I recommend doing a search on this forum, ignoring Hemi's posts since he tends to recommend removing the system, and you will find many suggestions from checking the Teves brakes when looking to buy a TC, how to service a properly operating system, to diagnosing a malfunction. If you want to replace the system with conventional non abs power brakes then research Hemi's posts on the matter, he does know what he is talking about. You should also research the Buick Reatta forum on their Teves brake system where I believe this info is already in compiled form.
  9. But you are doing a better job with the list than I would have been able to during the last few years, don't sell yourself short on that!
  10. If my brain is remembering correctly, the early 80's Chrysler 4 cyl engines in California all had stumbling problems when new. The fix at the time was simply a new and different carb spacer between the intake and the carb. When the carb was replaced the spacer may have been left off, worth a check.
  11. Pics of a car all wet are not helpful at all. Water can hide a multitude of condition problems.
  12. Assuming you have the V6 and auto trans car rather than the 16 valve with 5 speed. First thing to do is make sure there is voltage at the battery, then follow the positive cable until each plug. When you find the plug that is first to show no power let us know. When you get to the junction box that goes from the engine compartment to the interior of the car be sure to check on both sides since that can get corroded and stop power from going into the car. You probably have a fusible link in the engine compartment wires that chose this time to give out.
  13. Just be sure not to run the master cylinder reservoir too low on fluid, it will empty faster than you think.
  14. Just remember that any chip in the paint is probably going to show the yellow paint. Move any body part around and you are likely to see a yellow line next to the part. I think you should just wait for the right car to come around. That is part of the reason that I say color and location have a great deal to do with the value of a TC, along with original paint and leather in good condition bringing a premium. A repaint with color change will cost you a lot more than just transporting the correct car from another rust free state. Oh, and black on black with a black top in SoCal is a recipe for heat stroke when you first get in the car, I know first hand how hot that combo gets out here in the inland empire, much worse than when I was in Louisiana with my car.