TC KER

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About TC KER

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  • Location:
    Indio, California

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  1. Part Number 747-001 that I ordered from Auto Zone is the perfect replacement for the top pull down motor housing. It does not come with the plastic gear (my cousin made me an aluminum gear about 20 years ago to replace it with so I didn't need one). The picture shows the clear plastic but mine arrived as the durable black plastic newer type one. Now the pull down feels really strong and works great again.
  2. I ordered one from Auto Zone. I'll let you know how it turns out. I shopped around a bit but not sure if I got the best price. I'll write an update after I put it back together. AutoZone.com Item Description QTY Price Total Dorman Trunk Release Motor Housing 747-001 Part Number: 747-001 Warranty: Limited Lifetime 1 Unit Price: $42.99 Core: N/A $42.99
  3. Does anyone know if I can buy a new clear plastic housing part for the top pull down motor? All other parts in my top pull down motor are in working condition.
  4. It's nice to have her up and running like normal again. Hopefully this journey to track down a bad pressure control switch can help someone in the future. Hemi, I'll look you up next time I'm in your area and let know when you're near Indio. Thanks to all who contributed.
  5. The brakes are fixed and I’m on the road again. They feel like they are back to new again. FYI Hemi, the 4 warning lights started working again and all of them went off like they are supposed to; then as sudden as they worked they stopped again; hopefully they will come back on again, our good friend time will tell. I have a question on the brake fluid level. I pumped the brakes 25 times until it was hard with the ignition off and the level was at the full mark but when I took it for a drive as you can see in this photo the fluid level is up to the words "DO NOT". Is this acceptable/correct? Not that I’m recommending this but this is how I got the old pressure control switch off. I bought this random socket that I saw at AutoZone for around $30. It's open on one side and for some reason it fit onto the pressure control switch perfect. I put it on the pressure control switch with the cut out of the socket pointing up and then drilled a hole in the pressure control switch and put a screw in it because the socket wound up stripping the pressure control switch. My wife held a crow bar wedged in next to the accumulator post because the whole unit moves when you try to take it off. I used an pipe over the top of the ratchet and it broke loose.
  6. I can't seem to remove the pressure control switch with the water pump pliers. I've all but destroyed it and it won't budge. Any other suggestions on how to remove it?
  7. Ok, The new pressure control switch is supposed to arrive 1 week from today so I'll install it soon after that. I already put a new accumulator on about a week or so ago; I paid $280 for it on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/p/1142294990 Total amount: $280.00 USD Order Description: New ABS Brake Accumulator - Jaguar JLM1907 - Saab 4002267 - Delco 25528382 Message: Item Id: 382980992739 Buyer's Vehicle: 1990 Chrysler TC Maserati Base Convertible 2-Door 3.0L 2972CC 181Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated Hi Kerry,Yes it will definitely fit your 1990 Chrysler TC.Thanks,Dave I'll let you know about the success story soon. Thanks again, Kerry.
  8. I'm thankful to hear that it should be a relatively easy operation. I was curious what would happen if I tested the new pressure control switch by plugging the 5 pin electrical connection in it without screwing it in to the brake unit and turning on the ignition. Would it make some sort of sound or vibration?
  9. Has anyone ever posted the instructions on how to change out the pressure control switch? I can't seem to find any instructions on this. Is a special tool needed?
  10. I found a mechanic that walked me through the electrical functions and we found that the pressure switch has failed. Is part number AC Delco #25530882 the correct pressure switch replacement part?
  11. Thanks for the picture of the checklist you showed me Hemi. I'm struggling to figure out some of it so I'm looking for a mechanic in The Coachella Valley area that knows how to work on the electrical part of the brakes. I've found out that 3 auto shops out here (Exotic Car Services, Davies and Gabor Foreign) won't work on them. The pump motor works when I used a jump wire at the relay and I believe from the testing I did on the relay that it is good. I really feel I'm close to figuring this out and it is something simple. You don't suppose it has anything to do with the "4 warning lights not working" that you and I went over when we met in Laughlin do you? I wonder if anyone has any leads for a mechanic me?
  12. I'm working on the "check pump/motor current" and "check pressure control switch". I'll let you know how that turns out. I found the motor relay to be good; I tested it by following this video:
  13. I used a volt meter. I'm not very experienced doing this. I took the two screws that hold the fuse box into place off and then turned the box upside down. I put the positive pin of the volt meter before the 30a fuse and the negative pin of the meter on a random metal ground and got continuity (the same continuity as touching the meter pins directly to the battery). Then I did the same thing on the other side of the same 30a fuse. I did this to both of the 30 amp fuses so they appear to be working correctly. Both 30 amp fuses are in new condition.
  14. I checked both 30 amp fuses with a meter and they are functioning properly.
  15. Hi Hemi, Good to hear from you. I scratched inside all 4 female parts of the plug in your picture and wire brushed all 4 male parts. I used a jumper wire from the top female plug (in your picture) to the one on the right side and the pump motor worked and the hard brake thing went away. When I plug the relay back in the pump motor won't work. Do you think the relay is bad? Thank you, Kerry