trini

Spinneyhill, you are one of my favourite bloggesr, I always learn something from you. There are other guys like MAAt, Carhartly and a few others. That is what makes this forum interesting. Sometimes a little home made remedy helps for example radiator guys boil radiator in a special hot water tank. It works . My view is "how effective" The regular radiator guy is obsessed with maximum production for the day and so speed is important, not quality, to a great extent. I witnessed that first hand . Since this is a hobby we should enjoy doing things for ourselves as far as possible. There are bloggers on this forum who will jump in and give you oodles of advice. I would make up a steam pot and direct the steam into the rad or gas tank. It may take a while but you will have the satisfaction of doing a first class job and have fun doing it at the same time.

Perhaps you might want to weigh the cost of restoring, like chroming etc. against a reproduction from Meyers early Dodge. Reproduction are usually made of stainless steel. With locks and without locks . different prices. PHONE CINDY @ 734 341 6139.

I used the electronic thing and plugged it in. NO HELP. But rodent invariably cannot resist peanut butter for some reason. and even peanut in shell. The next in line is walnut.

No Sir. Do you see the nut in the picture ? There are splines on the shaft and also in the pedal hole. The splines must be aligned to fit the 3/8 bolt hole through the cut away grove on the shaft.(tighten to pinch) It will not fit any other way. I am not sure if the lever inside the box can change position. Both the clutch and pedal seems to be too high off the floor. I can adjust the clutch pedal lower. I am hoping someone might be able to tell me if the position of the lever inside the box, if it can be changed, and therefor lower the pedal and take care of the free play. When the pedal is pushed the lever inside the box pushes on the piston. The lever inside the box is mounted on the same shaft.

I have a 1928 Dodge Brothers Senior Six 4 door sedan. It has a 6 cylinder flat head engine (L head) It has 4 of those Watson thing . They are not interchangeable from side to side. About 2 years ago I was shopping for new webbing. I got the last piece from Restoration Supplies in California. No one was making new ones at that time but I think some body is reproducing them now. I think a lot of high end cars used them during that period.. Before you take it apart punch mark the cover in relation to the frame. The screws that hold the cover are not evenly distributed. If you need more information on repairing it I will try and help you. There is a clamp to hold the end of the belt to the shaft on the frame. DO NOT LOOSE THAT. It is difficult to find replacement.

I never said to chain cats . What I meant cats that are well fed do not necessarily go hunting. Most cats hunt mostly when hungry. My point is to set the common mouse traps using peanut butter as bait. I got rid of all mice that was in my house that way . My wife is allergic to cats.The cats go after the mice , that is if the cats can catch them. But the mice will go for the peanut butter. I have seen cats sitting looking like half asleep under a tree waiting for squirrels. I looked at the Yu tube. Great stuff. No matter which method , the important thing is to check trap line regularly. It may help. I once opened a small box of some kind of flax seed poison that was sold in agriculture stores and left it in the garden shed . Most of the flax seeds and all the mice were gone. That stuff is now banned in Ontario.

Dot be afraid of mice. The fool proof way of eliminating them is using the old mouse spring trap. Use a peanut butter smeared bait. Never fails. Even for squirrels. Field mice will look for warm places as the cold weather starts to set in. Set traps around cars.. The old house cats will only catch mice if you do not feed them.

Can you be a little more specific please. What car ? My 28 DB 6 butterfly is controlled manually with a cable from the inside of the cab. Some are controlled by vacuum from the carburetor via a vacuum tube under the air snorkel via a rod to the butterfly inline the exhaust pipe with all types of sheet metal baffles. Some work with a thermostatic coil spring attached to the shaft on the outside of the butter fly shaft. If you want to drive only in summer, remove any type of thermostat it really does not matter. Initially the system was provided for quick warm up in cold weather . Very important during the gas crunch days. The system was not perfect and there was always the danger of the butterfly being stuck in various undesirable position.

What about the condition of the crank shaft ? Is the bearing in good condition ? I see no reason why not. What might influence performance is pistons and rings fit in the block. If done properly you should get a few miles out of it. NEW NEARLY AS ALWAYS IS GOOD. but I am subject to correction here.

Some pictures might help.

I had a helper bleed the brakes on my 28 D B. There is apparently no air in the system but the pedal is a little better than an inch off the floor when pushed down. There is quite a bit of free play on the pedal before it starts pumping. There is no rod to adjust free play on pedal. I cannot take pictures of the Master Cylinder because it is way down below the floor against the frame. THE ASSEMBLY HAS A NEW KIT and is stainless steel sleeved. Is there any type of adjustment mechanism inside the box ? This a large box about 4 inches square and weighs a few pounds. Any help please ?

I have an inline thermostat in my 28 DB 6. Before I installed the thermostat I filled the ad right up. The fluid was boiling over the top. After installing the thermostat without the rad cap I could look into the rad and see the liquid circulating. I installed a dogbone and thermometer and ran the engine for half an hour. There was a good size puddle on the floor. I was looking for leaking hose and bleed cock when it suddenly dawned on me the liquid flowed through the overflow pipe. I forgot the old geysers carries internal overflow pipes. . Most modern rads have overflow on top which empties in a bottle and sucks it back when the engine cools. The system corrected its level itself.

I visited Romar website. It is friendly . This is about 3 years ago. I wanted to order some armour cables . I did not get a response and was in a hurry. I have never imported anything from them so I cannot say anything good or bad . I never meant to offend.

I do not know why I was thinking that the cut out had something to do with regulating current. Thank you guys 37 Roadmaster-c, JFranklin and DB26I and all the guys. I just ordered the diode from Amazon. I have 3 diodes from an 80 amp ac powered battery charger. There is a number on one " SYN 7341n2.81I will get rid of them. Cheers. Harry in Toronto

Cindy Meyers will answer her cell phone right away or if you leave a call back number. They are too busy to hang around the computer. I deal regularly with them. I tried Romar email and had no luck. That does not mean they are not around. The thing about shipping outside of the country is you have to go to the post office and fill out a export /declaration form. You get a tracking number That is the reason some US companies will notify you up front "we may not ship out" I encountered that several times"

Thank you Bloo. I learned something today and also refreshed my memory. One question Bloo Can a zener diode eliminate the need of the third brush ? Just a thought. Thank you.

Thank you very much for that DB26. I thought the diode will work as a current limiter. I will go your way. Now I see the logic. Now without the cut out the generator is set to produce10 amps or so .( with the position of the brushes) The cut out prevents the feed back only. apart from cutting in. The diode comes in here to do the job of the cut out . Makes sense. Cheers.

Steele Rubber seals Products

Classic Exotic Service Inc.2032 Heide dr. Troy MI 480845510 , U S restores the Watson shocks. My 28 DB Senior has them. Classic Restorations Supplies in California sells the belt.

The one thing all of us missed. The diode does not regulate the amperage coming out of the generator. The cut out does. The diode will prevent feed back in case the cut out malfunction so it has to placed in line with the output circuit. Cheers.

TO Roadmaster, No. You are not a party pooper. I welcome your comments. If the weaker one breaks down at least there will not be any feed back to the field and that will morph into a maintenance issue. The best thing will be to get a 20 to 25 amps single diode. I think the DB generator will put out 18 amps if the field is grounded. With the cut out adjusted to specs it is about 10 amps and slowly drops while the battery charges. I am subject to correction here but that is my experience. Diodes are designed to prevent feed back among other things. In my 1995 Jeep Cherokee the alternator got very hot because of feed back into the field. Replaced the unit and all was well.( leek back diode) Not very common. I saw a blog in this column a picture of a diode that looks like one from a 80 amps battery charger. It will probably work. I don know. If I can get a single diode between 20 and 30 amps with double ends leads. I will settle for that. THANK YOU endimass and TerryB

The pictures shows 2 diodes in parallel. I could not find a single diode 20 amps diode so I used 2 in parallel. I have not used it yet but I know it will work. The DB generator is set to produce 10 amps It is protected by a 6 amps fuse. This modification is to prevent feedback from battery to generator. It will work for both negative or positive ground. Just switch relay around.

I am trying to send pictures of generator cut modified with diodes .

Here are some pictures of generator cut out. It has 10 amps diodes in parallel. I could not find a single 20 amp diode. so I used 2 in parallel

I had my gas tank from my 1928 DB done by Gas Tank Exchange (another name for Gas tank Renu) here in Toronto. Great job