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Do you remember the most violent "union" ? The one with two horse's heads ? The leader is still missing after 40 years.

Bloo,Thank you. at least some body reads my blogs

You should really get a manual for that particular engine. On some engines the camshaft drives the distributor and at the same time the lower part of the shaft turns the oil pump. It is nice to hook up an oil gauge when cranking.

In the good old days in England you did not have to flag down the car. There was a fellow running ahead of the car with a flag to warn other users of the road of the dangers .

In some respects the American system is still run like the wild west. The Canadian Teachers Pension is run by the teachers and they have a huge pension fund and massive investments All companies/ employees pension funds are tightly regulated by the Federal Government against companies pillage. Pension contributions are tax free. It is taxed only when the individual collects on retirement depends on the individual total income threshold for taxation. We elect people to govern us . Democracy is the election of the few crooks by the naïve majority.

Boring out blocks became popular in the cars and trucks of the late fifties and through sixties.

About five years ago a friend of mine who was hired to install some electronic gadget to automate engines on an assembly line had everything in place. It worked fine while he and management were testing it. The following day it broke down. He was called to repair it. When he checked he found certain critical points of installation were deliberately shifted making the machine not falling in place. A deliberate sabotage by workers to frustrate automation. It was done twice. So much for that .

It is difficult to say whether it is the workers to blame or the company. A company is good only as the people who runs it.

The CP 24 Toronto news announced the Oshawa GM plant making its last vehicle today December 18 (today) I would not want to be one of those workers at the plant today. My heart goes out to them. I know what it is to be unemployed.

I was really referring to cars with shell bearings. If, say, I am removing the head(s) of a GM engine and doing a valve job, removing the pistons which requires removing the rods to get the pistons out. Let us refer to an engine with 80000 miles, to hone the block the shavings will infiltrate the crank bearings. Are the rod bearings in good shape ? The crank bearings may or may not be in good shape. So I reinstall the old bearings to save money. When I hone the bore and install new rings I will be getting some more horses, ( increase compression) which will put some more downwards pressure on the old bearings of the crank and rod bearings. I personally do not think it is a goo job unless I want to get rid of the car. Some sucker will be stuck. Babit bearings are easier to service. I have seen guys use the brown cloth to polish the crank then use prusian blue to check bearings fit and scrape the bearings with a scraper to fit. This is just my thought.

You may well be right. It is a common mistake. crankshaft rotates at half the speed of camshaft.

Fixing the top end will create a problem for the lower end of the engine. How about ?

When the # 1 piston is at top the two valves must be closed. On moving the crank right or left the # 1 valves will rock one side or the other like wanting to overlap. Set the distributor points as Tinindian said " rotor pointing to #1 wire on the cap. The rest will follow like sheep. If I am not mistaken that manufacturer used GM engines on their cars for a few years. Is the firing order 1,5 3,6, 2,4 ? If you do not have a manual, to check the firing order remove all the plugs and stuff the holes with paper.. Slowly rotate the engine and the paper will pop up one by one according to firing order.

Matt and I are like minded when it come to repair. If any of my friends does that kind of half a@#%se job I will not speak to him again.

There was a thread for similar services about a year ago. The consensus was to find a wood boat builder in your area . It was said these craftsmen are good at wood work.

The "Filing station " was selling brand new rims not too long ago. About 16 months ago there was an article in the Hemmings monthly magazine . This fellow had a heavy huge set up for straightening most any type of rim There was the picture of him with a 6 feet long tool in hand and a split rim in place. May be you should explore Hemmings editor.

Good luck.

This is a good candidate to replace the guts with a diode and still keep the looks.

The biro is correct. If you want to replace it with glass you can find the correct thickness of glass on most wall clocks made in China. Read my thread on how to remove thermostat assembly. The thermostat assembly does not care what the rest of the body looks like.

TexRiv_63 If the old original housing is in good condition and you want it be original then by replacing the thermostat tube will not change the old look. Go ahead and replace the tube and you will still have the old look. The thermostat has nothing to do with the overall looks of the housing.

TexRiv, I am speaking from experience. The thermostat tube is just finger press fit in the housing. It is then put in a press and squeezed around the root to keep it there and also to make it water tight. It is good enough to buy one from the flea market. I pose the questions, Is it working and how accurate ? Is it really original. Is it worth the chance of buying a dud to hang on the wall ? Why do I not use the same money and add some more and buy a new reproduction that works ? I must have spent more than a few hundred dollars buying stuff in the flea markets in the hope of repairing them , eventually throwing them in the garbage. That is the nature of the hobby business.

Is your 38 De Soto 12 volts ? I thought 12 volts made it way in the early 50's ? Except Dodges 1916, 17 and 18. To your original question . the pump will push 2 to 4 lbs so eventually it reaches 4 lbs. the line regulator is set at 2lbs. So there is a difference of 2 lbs in the pump. The pump should have a relief valve internally to relieve the extra pressure. If the pump pressure does not relieve at 2 lbs to coordinate with the line choke it is obvious the 2 lb build up will cause the pump to heat up. Protect it with a breaker fuse. For years British Lucas uses an electrical fuel pump in Morris Minor and other British cars Both 6 and 12 volts. When the fuel bowl is empty it is possible to hear the tic, tick. When the bowl is full the pump stops operating until the fuel level in the bowl drops, and then there is a tick or two to maintain bowl level. It is good idea to explore.Check with Moss Motors and consult members of the MGB club of America. Learning is a life long experience. Please do not chastise me for my opinion. It is just my thought.

It appears your fuel pump needs an outlet to relieve its own internal pressure . It seems to be overloading it self. The line pressure regulator is set too low. I assume the carburetor is a downdraft. YOU MIGHT WANT TO GET SOME ADVICE FROM CARB KING AS TO A SUITABLE replacement CARB if possible

Some time in September this year my buddy bought a used Buick Motor meter for his 34 McLauchlin , Original, 80 bucks stuff from some vendor at a flea market. It was a dud. I bought 2 reproductions, 1 for my 28 DB and 1 for a Buick for my friend from Cindy Meyers at 80 bucks each and gave my friend the Buick as a present. Boy, he had some choice words for the fellow who sold him the dud. Restorations Supply in California sell refills for the larger Motor Meter for around 40 bucks. I tried replacing the refill in my old DB. I finally threw whole thing in the garbage. It was the smaller one.The thermometerl is swedged into place. To remove the tube first remove the glass, cut the threaded part at the root, hold it in a machine vize and drill it out. Start with a small drill and keep going up until the insert is out . The new insert will guide you as the size of new hole. Chamfer the hole about 1/8 ins deep. Install the refill and fill the chamfer level with silicone. NOW HERE IS THE KICKER. IS IT BETTER TO BUY A NEW REPRODUCTION FOR 80 BUCKS OR SPEND THE TIME REPAIRING THE OLD ONE WITH A REFILL COSTING 40 BUCKS ? The choice is yours. The threaded part is brass and body is pot metal.

If I am correct the gadget is definitely a motor mount. Mounts are not made to move around but rather to absorb shocks by the machinations of the engine and rubber or neoprene is the best. That pin has to be tight in the bushing. Metal to metal do not absorb shock. rubber or neoprene will yield to the engine movement. A chunk of rubber vulcanized between two metals basically does this job.