Dave39MD

The double bar does look like a Chevrolet and the mounting bracket matches my 1931. Double bars were generally early/mid 31 and back I would check your measurements compared to these charts. Dave

I like the color, contents, and the invoice on this cabinet. The last year in the catalog is 1923 but it was sold in 1925. Must be $8.50 not $85. Dave

I may have one I will have to look. By chance do you have an extra exhaust manifold? Or have a good lead? Dave

Chuck, Doesn't the display fold flat if so you could make a box with cardboard or get a sign box from a sign company? I presumed I was paying for shipping, is that not correct? Dave

How are we doing on the box?

Even the scammers are not pretending to have this. Back to the top.

Paul, Exactly what Frank said. Can you post your contact information or send me a PM so we can discuss ? Thanks Dave

Amazing work, thanks for the photos. Dave

I appreciate your offer but that is not enough. Thanks Dave

It looks like it is 3/16 to a 1/4 where I measured it. He said he would have to cut out the weld, he is getting back to me on where to send the photos. PaulS, where are you located? Thanks Dave

Talked to Frank and he wanted me to send pictures. It did not sound real encouraging due to the prior weld and casting thickness. We will see. It seems like he is still involved and running the business but wanted me to send the photos to his son. Thanks again for the advice and information. Dave

I found my PF24 cutaway and the paper seems to be fine. That said, most everyone is making a quality filter these days and if you have doubts why not go with a new ACDelco, NAPA/Wix or other name brand? Dave

AC filters of that vintage were very high quality and made by AC. I have some and still use them and they are that old and older. I have never had a problem. Mine have been stored properly and never exposed to high heat. Dave

Is that Billy's station?

I am open to offers

Good advice and information. I have a plan starting with Frank and his decision of taking it on or not. Just wish I did not have to ship it. Thanks for all the replies. Dave

Ed, Thanks for Frank's info. Joe, I still have the special washers except for the far end where the one stud was replaced. When I replaced the leaking gasket I coated the new copper gasket with a graphite/oil mix and gently tightened it up but the crack finally let go. Good advice to plane the replacement manifold if I find one. I must admit I did consider JB Weld and epoxy putty for a moment but was worried it might have a negative effect on a proper repair. Dave

Good info. I was thinking of Matt's custom header , it is beyond my skill level but I may be able to find someone here to make one. It is an original 44,000 mile car so I am willing to buy a engine or parts car to get the right manifold. I do like the idea of stitching it together, can anyone provide Frank's contact info so I can see if that is a possibility? Thanks again for the help. Dave

Thanks for the suggestions. The Brazing article was interesting information. Dave

Thanks for the reply, did they weld it? Dave

Thanks for posting the Popular Mechanics book. I wore that book out when it was in my elementary school library and could not remember it's title. I just bought one from Amazon, thanks again. Dave

The search is on for a crack free 31-32 Buick 60 series manifold 1239956 but I would love to try a temporary fix so I can drive the car. After searching the site it sounds like welding may or may not work. In fact the picture shows it was partially welded (what you can see is all that is welded) but is now cracked all the way around. Any ideas on possible repairs? One of the parts vendors suggested stitching but I wonder if that would be possible with the lump of weld on the edge of the crack. Thanks for any suggestions or opinions. Dave

Still available

Marv, Is there a number stamped on the mounting base? Thanks Dave