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Everything posted by Dave39MD

  1. I use the same plugs in a 24 Chevy. The C77 were to cold and loaded up with carbon as did the Autolite 3076. The 78S are hotter and extended tip and they work well. The Autolite 3077 also is extended tip and works well but they may have discontinued it. Dave
  2. I bought this thinking it would fit my 31 Buick but I did not measure correctly for the head being recessed. Lock and key work well. $200 including US shipping. If you need more measurements or can't make them out send me a pm and I can get you what you need. Thanks Dave
  3. That is about a $150 lock and hard to find. Do as they suggested above. Dave
  4. It was a common practice to keep discontinued parts in the catalog for a period of time to give the warehouse distributors and jobbers (flaps) time to sell out of their inventory. The manufactures did not want the returns if they could avoid it. It sounds like some may still be doing it but it does surprise me in the age of electronic catalogs. It is also possible one supplier has discontinued the part in their system but it is still available from the manufacturer and other suppliers. Dave
  5. I have used Ru-Glyde tire lube I think I bought it a NAPA. Make sure the new tires do not have any stickers inside the tire. Lots of good advice above, get the long tire irons and let both the old and new tires sit in the sun to soften them up. It is hard work. Dave
  6. This company has been an excellent fuel pump supplier in the past, http://www.then-now-auto.com/ Dave
  7. I read on the VCCA site that the Powerglides might leak if they sit for a long time and the converter drains and over fills the pan. Might be something to it. Dave
  8. It sounds like you have your pivot shaft problems solved but if it happens again you might consider a slightly longer shaft with grooves cut in to the ends to accept circle clips. In going through a box of fuel pump cores I found a few done that way. It may have been factory or a fix back in the day. Nice car and great thread. Dave
  9. Here are a couple pictures of the front seat. Dave
  10. Good advice so far especially leaving the nut on. I had one that was really stuck and under a lot of pressure from the puller. I warmed it up a little with the torch and hit the center puller end with a heavy brass hammer and it finally came off. If I had been standing in front of it I would still be limping. Dave
  11. There is a plate, I think, between the two posts in the last picture. Seems to read Delco. Dave
  12. The front seat frame is wood. I will try and take some pictures tomorrow. Dave
  13. Your one cushion looks like the front seat bottom. Not sure what is in the box like frame. I will give mine a look later and let you know. Besides joining the AACA you should give consideration to The Vintage Chevrolet Club, here is a link to their site; https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary.html Dave
  14. I think I have some of the parts you need but it might save shipping if you made a list for me to check my inventory. I do have some much used inside and outside door handles, tail light buckets, and many other parts. I bought my cowl light bases and lenses from I and I Reproductions and had the shells re plated. I am not sure if anyone is reproducing the lights but they might be. The t handle Rumble seat handle is hard to come by ,and the repos were out of stock last time I checked. I did find one after much searching but it needed a lot of work. The one on my car was L shaped and that is available. I can take many pictures since my car is still in progress. I would like to see a few more pictures of your bottom rumble seat cushion and the wood frame. I will attach pictures of the seat back. If you wish let me know via PM when you have your parts list. Dave
  15. Here is a picture but it may not help much. The u shaped wire is the primer lever. I checked the catalogs and it was used on many marine engines but probably has to be one that uses a pump with a top and bottom cover. The only problem I had with my boat was when the engine happened to stop with the pump arm all the way in but all you had to do was bump the starter. Dave
  16. One other possible solution is you could build up a AC mechanical pump with a hand prime lever. There is one on my Buick but I don't need to use it. They were common on marine engines like the Chris Crafts K series, AC pump number 4294. Then and Now Auto Parts offered to build another one up for me so they can probably still do one. Dave
  17. Thanks for posting. A couple of times it looked like you got it going pretty fast, any idea on what it will do without pushing it real hard? Dave
  18. If it has not been done you may want to drop the oil pan and clean it out and give everything a look , clean the oil pump screen if they have one. Dave
  19. I will knock on wood but my 31, 66s, does not have that problem. If cold it needs a second or two of choke then off it goes, no choke when warm. I do drive it often but if it has sat for a few weeks it will start quickly using the choke.The fuel line from the pump to the carb has the loop in it and the carb is the original 10-795. I can't imagine it makes a difference but it does have the late 31 air cleaner. I did have to block off the heat riser, replaced the tubes, and installed a new intake/exh. gasket to cure a lean when hot running problem. Dave edit -I have been using no ethanol fuel for the last year or two.
  20. You might add contact information too.
  21. Here it is with the left hand on. Could this be a Model T specific accessory? Thanks Dave
  22. I could be losing it but didn't you have another thread on spark plug gap? I can't find it. Dave