Dave39MD

I wonder if you could use some combination of wet towels and then steam to soften the latex paint (if that is what it is)?

It looks like you are looking for DE housing part number 1860492. I don't have one but you might search e bay. It has been NLA from Delco for at least 40 years. Dave

It is fantastic your daughter is interested in your great car. I have been thinking along the same lines but narrowed down to starting instructions. You have made me think expanding to a written record of starting, driving, storing, maintenance, thinks to watch for, history of the car , and why it is special might be a good start. Maybe a record of what I have done and where the spare parts are hiding would also be helpful. I wish you the best. Dave

My 1968 AC pump catalog shows the same part number, on the 6, from 1940 to 1950. It looks like you have Carter pumps pictured , can you get a kit for the pump on your vehicle? I use Then and Now for fuel pumps and parts. Dave http://www.then-now-auto.com/

This one may be over kill but I am going to try it .At 300A continuous , 2000A intermittent it should handle 6 v. It is heavy, feels close to a pound. Cole-Hersee 75908-BX Dave

My Grandfather used the 21 Dodge as a tractor and powered his saw mill with the rear drivers side wheel. The 39 is still in the same condition as it is in the photo taken about 1951 and used often . Dave

The NCRS has detailed information and judging manuals. Since you are going to restore to their standards that is where I would go. https://www.ncrs.org/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_34&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIivSsuKSF5gIVrSCtBh1MvArKEAAYASAAEgIRz_D_BwE

Kids love them and I can see the advantages of dating. My mother rode in one from Long Island to Estes Park in 1934 she was 20. Wish I could ask her about that adventure.

My 31 66s does not make that knocking sound but many of the other sounds are familiar. My oil pressure is a little higher on the gauge, 30 at idle and about 40 going down the road. Are you running the original fan bearing with the oil and pump inside? Dave

This is an interesting thread. My 31 60 series appears to be an original survivor. Valve cover, side plates and many other accessories are black but the block and head do not appear to be olive green. It has more blue in it than I would think olive would have. The vehicle has 44,000 miles and the body, interior, and chassis are clearly original. I suppose anything could have happened over the years and the paint may have changed color. I am interested in opinions. Thanks Dave

No idea on what it would cost but you can do it yourself. If the harness you have is marked and the instructions are still there it is not too difficult. If the old harness is still in the car and you don't have the instructions, take a lot of pictures, make notes, and try to do a section at a time. The wiring diagram for the car is also very helpful and can usually be found in the shop manual or maybe on line. If you can determine who made the harness, YnZ , Rhode Island, or some other company, they may be able to provide instructions. Dave

The second switch, the Cole-Hersee, is rated 2000a intermittent. Would that work with 6 volts? Dave

No cross on the M-744 which seems odd, maybe a high output performance pump? 95-41348 various ford products with 6.6 , 69-78. M 4385 various ford 67-76 6.4. Using an AC cross reference which is not the best way for application. The 95- NAPA numbers were supplied to them by ACDelco so the suffix is the ACDelco number. Dave

They look just like the 31-32 GM Cabriolet passenger door ashtray. Each division seemed to have their own design. John Potter in California is reproducing the Chevrolet design which is plain compared to yours. Dave

Here is a picture from the 1931 Buick sales catalog of a 8-67 with painted wood wheels and pinstripes. Most of the cars pictured are shown with wire wheels and do look very nice. Dave

I have an unrestored 31 60 series with 44,000 miles It has had some paint touch up over the years so I really don't know if this is the original treatment or not but would guess it is. Dave

The Standard in 33 used the smaller motor as he described. I know of one in southern California if that is close to you send me a PM and I will pass on the phone number. Dave

It shouldn't as long as the body bolts are tight. Is the car on it's wheels, it should be. Dave

Once you determine it is not loose screws ,hinge pins, loose body bolts, or bad wood you can adjust door gap. The Fisher Body manuals and/or your vehicle service manual may explain it. Generally if you add a shim between the body sill and vehicle frame at the bolt nearest to the hinge post it would raise the rear of the door. Dave

Frank, what is the problem with the A 6 compressor and r134? I was thinking of converting my old truck? Dave

The mice around here love the Bounce and use it for nests and bedding. Dave

Do you know what the writing on the spark plug cover says, I see a 33 and the oil temperature regulator is different than my 60 series 31 but that may be proper . The pipe from the exhaust to the heat riser is missing but that is not a big deal. The King-Seely fuel gauges were filled with a corrosive liquid that often rusted the face. I have a rusty one that may be able to be saved if you are in a real pinch. Looks like a very nice car. Dave

The early L-1 opened in the middle, I have attached a photo from the same source. The one above has a welded bottom cap, after that they were extruded using one piece of metal. Be sure to share a photo of what you decided to do! Dave

One more bit of info. The picture of the AC L-1 I posted above was of a 1942 L-1. By then the aluminum was going to the war effort not paint. I have attached a photo of a 1940 AC L-1 showing the alloy paint in case someone is wondering the color. This came from Patrick Doonan's "The Great Oil Filter Debate" . Dave

My favorite was The Fun of Old Cars by Bob Stubenrauch but I see now I clearly missed out having just discovered Mimi. Dave