dibarlaw

My grandfather always said that his first car was a 1927 Buick "Country Club Coupe". He said the color was brown. He didn't recall whether it was a Standard or a Master. Either which would have had the rumble seat and golf bag door. Not the best choice for a family of 5. He bought it as a used car in 1930 which at the time my father was 6 my aunt was 9 and uncle was 13. So with 2 adults and the 3 kids　it would not be very practical. He said that the block cracked the winter of 1934 and since he was a machinist he made a patch plate which held at least till 1937 when he traded it for a 1937 Pontiac. 2 Oldsmobiles and 2 Pontiacs later, his last car though was a Buick. A 75 Regal Coupe.

I have an open car. 1925 Buick standard Touring. On an 80+degree day with the top down cowl vent wide open and at 45 mph it is not bad. Just don't stop!.. as it feels like you have the heater on full blast! This is the same with my 1937-41 sedan. I will try to add some reflective insulation on the floor and firewall prior to us leaving for the Buick nationals. The wife does not do well without air conditioning.

Be very careful on applying any pressure to back flush the radiator (yours should be a square core, in my 1925-25 it is honeycomb). I tried to use a "flusher" to backflush my spare radiator I bought from a friend and ended up ruining it. $100 shot. So I had it recored with a modern heavy duty core @$900! The local shop sent it out to Pittsburgh. Now I have over $1000 in this radiator. I have still been using the original one that came with my car. I thought the overheating problems were over but when I tried to drive to our Mason-Dixon car show 2 weeks ago. The old problems came back. So I am considering finally installing the new one. Larry

I am still trying to get the 37 tripworthy to the Buick Nationals. Worked on jury-rigging the lower control arm and shafts. This was since the shaft kits sent by CARS (with bushings) don't work. When I ordered them from their latest catalog only part # shown was SK377 they didn't ask and I didn't know to ask untill I reciecved them if this was the only style available. And the type I would need requires the dissasembly of the entire bottom half of the suspension. Already had the alignment done when we found this problem. Thought I could just remove the shafts and turn them down and re-thread. Then make bushings to fit. But as I already said to remove the shafts would require the removal of the control arms and they are out of round also. The tolerance on these parts were originally to be .005-.010". Most were worn close to .100" at the largest gap. Instead I cleaned the threads well fitting them to the undamaged mating threads at the bottom of each part. Then file fitted up some cresent shaped pieces of brass and drove them tight to take up the space. This should get us to South Bend and back. Yesterday checked on CARS website catalog it shows a #SK37 shaft (Non-Bush) added in 2010. That would have been good except the threads on the control arms are enlarged way past a good fit. Larry<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Great Job Dwight! Much better than when I saw it in March. If you have a spare 2 weeks could you come over and do mine?.... I am still trying to get the 37 tripworthy to the Buick Nationals. Worked on jury-rigging the lower control arm and shafts. This was since the shaft kits sent by CARS (with bushings) don't work. And the type I would need requires the dissasembly of the entire bottom half of the suspension. Thought I could just remove the shafts and turn them down and re thread. Then make bushings to fit. Instead I cleaned the threads well then made up some cresent shaped pieces of brass and drove them tight to take up the space. This should get us to South Bend and back. Larry

Looking forward to this, since last year at Concord we observed from the outside. So we will be there if the 37 cooperates! Larry

Dave : What prompted you to attempt this job in the first place. My 37's 248 ci engine has a pretty good "Tick" going on with it. And I would like to quiet it down. Larry

John: Looking good ! I have been trying to find out what was included in my 25's set. I know that Jay Barret's 23 sport roadster (the one we went to buy) had a tool compartment with tools in the drivers side door. See the March 2013 Bugle issue spotlighting his car. I had googled images of 23's when we were going to buy his car and found pictures of a restored 23-45 with its set of tools but it would not let me download it. Back to the garage to get my 37 trip worthy. Enjoy your picnic! Larry

Brian: Already have my reservations. Just working down the prep list for the 37. Have to send out the vacuum wiper motor to be rebuilt. Oh... Thats right it won't rain! Also will probably have to machine some bushings for my lower control arms. The new shaft kit I got from CARS will not fit. Look forward to seeing all of you. Larry

Good one Dwight! And are they Wittworth thread? Larry

Brian: Thanks for the reminder. Just made our reservations for 7/21,22,23. Sounds like a good time. We have taken the 37 out twice this season on longer trips. Our Mason-Dixon/B.O.O.M Wine tour at 122 miles and our club car show at 95 miles. Each time with no major issues. But I still have a few reacuring problems to straighten out. I have to get my wiper motor rebuilt yet and make lower control arm bushings. The new shaft kit from CARS would require me to find parts from a parts car to fit. Possibly a 38 special. Every time I believe I have taken care of one issue 2 more show up. Larry

Than you all for your input. Finally getting around to analyzing what is there and checking the diameters. Looks to be that the original arm bore and the new shaft O.D. is exactly the same. The new bushing is about .270 larger My problem now it to see what lower control arm will be compatible. 38 special? And then try to locate them. Another solution is that I machine new bushings to fit the existing arms from hex stock. Also turning down the existing shafts about .125 undersize and chase new threads.This is a big job. But I already have over $150 in parts that don't fit. This has always been my experience with the Buick parts supplier out of New Jersey. Larry

Thanks Mark: All that you recomended I had checked already. The only thing I changed was that before I tried to take this long trip I added a small overflow tank. I had already added a hose extension off the overflow tube to direct any spit-ups down under the car instead of spraying over the engine compartment. This has been fine all spring with hardly a cup of water being expelled. That day (85 deg) all the foam had erupted from the overflow tank. After cool down I had to ad a gallon of water to bring up to the top of the core. The next day I removed the overflow tank and ran the hose back down between the radiator shell and left side splash shield where it was before. Drove around town doing errands and did about 6 miles. The Motometer did not go above "Cool Motor" line. After sitting in garage 15 min on cool down, not even a drop came out the overflow tube. On Fathers day took family out for a short drive about 4 miles with a full load of 5 passengers (80 deg). Motometer just above cool motor and next line when pulled back in garage. I felt the radiator at the top and compared to bottom. I felt that it was slightly hotter towards the top. Holding the palm of the hand on the core untill uncomfortable about 3 seconds. While on the bottom about 5 seconds. Also not a drip out of the overflow. So adding this tank to the situation may have cause the problem. Larry

Sorry to say my 1925 will not be able to attend our Mason Dixon Chapter car show this Saturday at Freysinger Buick in Mechanicsburg Pa. After 2 weeks of intensive prep. Including redoing oil pan with new gaskets and end seals, rebuilding oil pump, repairing the oil distribution tube solder joint. (Much blue silicone sealer everywhere!) Plastigaged the rod bearings and adjusted. Serviced the rear axle, adjusted brakes, greased etc. and new fan belt. I felt sure she was ready to travel the 40 miles. Last evening we left about 6 PM to go to Freysingers (to store in their drive-thru till saturday when we would also drive up our 1937-41) with with my wife Joanie following. We got about 2 miles from home when white foam spewed from the left side hood louvers. (Seemed as though I had solved this problem last fall and has not done this on longer drives this spiring). Temp started going up so we headed back home. Last year I had gone thru the cooling system repeatedly with this same outcome untill I found that the intake manifold was loose. Once all was retorqued & blocked off heat riser ports, all seemed to run much cooler. This spring after a 10 mile run or so on a 70 deg day temp hardly went above warm engine on the Motometer. When engine was stopped overflow may belch about a cup of water. I had seen where others had added a small overflow tank to even take care of this. Which I did and this is the only thing added different from earlier drives. I guess "Beaulah" just refuses to go past the Boro limits. So we will only drive the 37 up the morning of the show. Larry

I believe they may be a fine thread 1/4-28 TPI or 5/16-24 TPI slotted Oval head. Try an old line hardware store. My 1925 rims have spring clips (which I had to make). 1/8 turn on the rim to remove. Larry

John: I have square pads under my radiator mounts for my 25. That's what my parts book shows. Looking good! As to my 25. Now to finish putting the oil pan back on. Yesterday I spent an invigorrating afternoon on my back "Plastigaging " the rod bearings. Conclusion... this engine is quite tired. All bearings show some minimal scoreing and only 2 still had shims. I had to resolder one of the joints on the oil line to the mains and repair a hole in the oil pump screen unit. Also lapped the oil pump body and cover to get back to the .002 clearance. Hopefully this will boost the oil pressure a bit. The gasket kit I have has the 2 piece pan gasket and 2 lengths of 5/16 square cork for the front and rear. Onward to South Bend! Larry

Joe: So looking forward to seeing this at South Bend. Good luck on the finishing touches! Larry

I agree with Jeff on the great experience of doing this on your back! I am presently doing the same operation on my 1925. I did bearing checking with plastigage on my 37-41 I believe in 1988. (I remember a much younger man in his early 30s did ths job). On all bearings only had to remove 1 shim to bring back into spec. Same time I rebuilt the oil pump. Had a long frustrating fight trying to install the rear seal I was told needed to be there. Untill the "Torque Tube" indicated instead there was a slinger flange and a check valve. I had to remove the flywheel to get the ring gear flipped and redressed. At the same time I scribed or center punched the clutch and all other parts to hopefully keep balance. Great, except after 3 months when CARS said they could not rebuild my clutch because the disk was an aftermarket. They returned it. Then they lost the entire pressure plate assembly. Seems at that time their rebuilder was in Florida. So I was sent a replacement one. Well it held up things for over a year untill I put the bottom end back together. Then life happened and 25 years slipped by. It has just been running since August 2012. The pan gasket I so meticuliously glued and fitted in 1988 leaks badly now. Even with retightening the bolts. We are hoping to drive the 37 to South Bend. Larry

brass2: Needed to let the forum know that you did reply. Thank you for the photos. My friend Leif Holmberg in Sweden who has a 1925 and 1927 standard has identified the transmission as a 1927. The engine mounting on the 25 is male while the 27 is female(recessed). Thank you anyway: Larry

Called several times. No reply. Larry

I would love to help again. But the distance and location was any thing but convienent. John's Paul Rose suggestion is where I would go. I already have too much to take care of with my 1925 and 1937 for this summer. I will call them to see if there are some things to be answered over the phone. Larry

John: Sorry we missed you as I had hoped you could stop by our place in Chambersburg. Looks like you took pictures of many of the same cars I did. Did you get to go into the display building to see all the Pennsylvania made cars? Realy a great display of cars, trucks, motor cycles and specialties. We hung around till about 1:30-2:00. I am now trying to clean up the bottom of my 25 to hopefully be able to drive it to the Mason-Dixon car show on the 15th at Mechanicsburg Pa. Pulled the pan to give a good bearing check "plastigage" and clean out the sludge. Quite a bit of grit and about 1 lb of RTV blue rubber sealant. Not a gasket or seal to be found anywhere. The oil pump screen had a hole in it, that also was packed with the same blue goop. What does one use as a seal at the front and rear of the oil pan? I have the long pan gaskets. Do you cut cork or felt or goop it up like the last fellow did! Larry

I ordered and received a pair of lower inner shaft kits for my 1937 Special. When comparing them to my car I've found that the shaft kits I purchased have hex bushings at both ends of the control arm shafts while my car has no hex bushings. It looks as though the lower control arm rides directly on the threads of the shaft. Also, the grease fittings go right into the ends of the shafts wereas the grease fittings in the repair kit go into the bushings. Do I have the correct parts? If so, must I have the control arms bored out to use the hex bushings in the kit? My factory manual shows no hex bushings for the 40 and 60 series, but is kind of vague on the subject. The reprinted 1937 Service buletins mentions something on page 95 but the reprint only goes up to page 93.... This was an unanswered post from 2003. But states my case perfectly. Larry

Yes folks this is the same car we didn't get running last June. John and I got close but it had more problems than we could tackle on a 100 degree day. The owners son it seems has now posted it on craigslist. Unless they did get the local mechanic they said that they would send it to get things up and running, don't think any thing has changed. The photos they posted were from over 9 years ago. When he and his wife were still touring with the B.O.O.M. club. His wife passed some years ago and he lost enthusiasm for the car. Our assesment was that it had been tinkered with so much that many systems were out of adjustment. Ignition / fuel /electrical. Had 2 bent push rods and stuck valves which we freed up. It tried to start but with a little more time... we may have done it. I did make a low offer reflecting what I thought it needed. Fuel system complete rebuild. Valve job, cooling system still not evaluated, brakes probably. The tires were very old NON SKIDS pretty worn out. On the plus side the top was a quality job with side curtains (plastic is now oilly yellow) and there are some spare parts. Looks to have been done over in the 1960s on a pretty solid car. I know another member on the Fourm has tried to buy it but they seem to be fixed on $9,000. Larry

Brian: I believe the valve setting will be one of my next chores to perform on the 25. Out in central Pa. an 8% grade is flat for us! Last Sunday Joan and I took "Beulah" for a drive after church and had to take a short hill about 75 yards long. With my problematic sticking clutch, a double-clutch downshift is successful only once in a while. We crawled up in 3rd while an irate motorist passed us on a bend. Time to get out the feeler gages and do both the 1925 and the 1937. I never did them and doubt if the former owners ever did. Larry