dibarlaw

Downloaded and enlarged the photo and see no front round cross member. So to me it would a 4 cylinder model 35. Larry

Well after re-cleaning the switch and reinstalling it some of the problems went away. I saw that the passenger side head lamp was burned out again! Checking it seems though the bulb base locator fits really tight and did not lock in position properly and made imperfect contact. This causing a higher current draw and another burn out! All lights, park, head, turn, dash, map, clock and brake now work... except... the front left fender parking. Bulb good. Shows voltage to it. Added a jumper wire from the lamp shell to good body ground...and we have light!!! Spent better part of yesterday cleaning threads, wire brushing, and adding star washers etc., to get a good ground on the lamp housings. This has been a steady frustration with the work done by the "pro-restoration shop". Yes I had them install a new wiring harness but I have had to go over every connection and clean the missed corrosion and loose screw connections. And rearrange some misplaced leads. Things may be getting better. Larry

Shoe: Thanks for the tip looks like a great product! For me the price is a bit salty. I expected about half the quoted price. But after the shop doing the "driver restoration" of my 37 Buick forgot about my written request to have turn signals incorporated into the new wiring harness. And having already installed the harness without them... Charged me well over $300 in materials alone to cobble more looms and wire runs to get the turn signals. Which at this time I am still trying to resolve some of the wiring problems this has caused. So in this instance the price is not to bad. Larry

Keith: I believe your intention is to be helpful for the hobby and it's members. No fault there! I have made a few items for others in the antique Radio hobby usually for trade and found it mutually profitable. Each got what they needed. And no one went broke doing it. I only have problems when I see one supplier of parts at a Buick meet flea market with "reasonable yet still a bit expensive" items get talked down on price by another dealer. Who then tries to resell at double the previous asking price. While at Concord the I asked about a nice used 37 medallion about $100! I tried to deal down a bit and the double price dealer who happened to be there, not the actual dealer said "you better take it at that price because after I buy it I am going to put $200 on it. I believe the parts have been on e-bay ever since for a doubled price. Sorry for the rant. But thank you for your well meaning offer. I had to super glue the mounting flange on my one parking light. If it does not hold I may need another one. Larry

Jeff: There is a spring catch that is pushed in to release the knob shaft. Look at pictures I have of the switch body. You will have to feel for it with a finger. Once released, pull out the knob. Then to remove there is a 5/16 hex key hole to put an Allen hex wrench in to remove the securing face nut and washer. Larry

Thanks Don: I thought I made certain that I documented the position of the contacts. The rear parking lights work. The headlight on the drivers side works only with the high beam switch depressed. Now no front parking lights. All brake and rear lights ok and the added on turn signals work on both sides rear. Just passenger side Park/turn signal works with turn signal switch. Drivers side park bulb checks good. The only problem before was the "country position" allowed only the left side head light to be on. Should have left well enough alone.

I see a wooden firewall. MacLaughlin Buick?

Thought I would be posting my fix/solution for my intermitent headlight switch. Instead I seem to have made things worse. I checked the schematic layout and made a diagram of the existing connections since we had the restoration shop install a new wiring harness. They also added turn signals. All done before I removed to dissasemble. I cleaned up contacts and leveled the micarta surface. New path (scratch) of the triangular contact shows contact. I took the photo as refrence in case of a problem. My question is, does any one have a photo or knowledge if the triangular contacts are in the correct positions? I thought this is the way I removed them. Larry

Does not look "Excelent" to me. Larry

Mark: Same for me. I signed up at the BCA nationals at Concord. But only heard of things thru the forum.I will contact Dave also. Larry

Dwight: I tried to insert the same video in my post but I am not skilled. Wished I took some pictures of when John's brother Steve got the front end loader and excavated the spare crankcase(broken) and block from where it had sunk into the dirt floor of the shed. So here are some other photos I took. Larry

After setting up a date to help get John's fathers Buick going again, Dwight Romberger asked to jump in and help also. Dwight and I met John at his fathers farm at 9:00 this past saturday morning outside of Aspers Pa. (About a 2hr drive for Dwight and 1 hr for me.) At which time we drove up to the building where it was stored. The Buick had been pushed out from the back wall where it was parked now being accessible on all sides. It appeared to be a solid but neglected older restoration on good tires. John said his dad did most of the work in the late 1960s. The car may not have been run reguarly in 6 years. The car was being worked by John's father prior to his passing about a year ago. Dwight began trying to free up carb/throttle/choke linkages. Dwight also brought along a "Nurse Tank" in case we had to by-pass the Vacuum tank. I traced out ignition wires from the crumbling switch unit. Which by luck the ignition switch was broken off in the on position. There was a battery disconnect switch to control current. I also lubed up the distributor and starter/generator and linkages as well as removing the valve cover and adding oil on the rocker arm shaft and valve guides. John pulled the plugs and shot some fuel into each cylinder. The 100 Amp charger/starter unit Dwight brought was a great help in keeping the starter going. Dwight filled the vacuum tank and I began mashing on the starter. Initialy the engine was quite reluctant to keep running. I tried the fuel mixture needle valve to adjust but needed delicate attention of some grips to open. When removed there was obvious gum accumulation, which once cleaned and reset the engine started and ran! Charging at 12Amp and 15 lbs oil pressure. We had it running for about a half hour when we realized that the vacuum tank was pulling old gas from the main tank. Not running very smooth but with a carb rebuild, cleaned and regapped plugs and fresh gas should do much better. The brakes were pretty thin and I adjusted them enough to get about a 1/2 pedal so I could move it back and forth without going thru a wall or across the yard and backing into my S-10. John and his brother Steve seemed pleased with the outcome. Dwight and I enjoyed resussitating the 1925-45. Larry

Dwight: When I see you tomorrow for the 1925-45 ressusitation event I should have one for you. Larry

Mr. Morrisey: I am shure there will be others to respond. For my self I thank you for being able to give this experience to our young people. I teach high school Tech Ed here in Pa. and many is a time I wish I could involve our students in such activities. To me this is one of the ways to continue the hobby for the future. Best of Luck! Larry DiBarry

Local fellow I spoke to about joining the Mason-Dixon club. Said he would have joined but really wanted to sell the car. I went to look it over tonight. He has a good driver 66 Skylark convertible, 82,000 miles, older red repaint. Original color may have been green metalic. White top is in very good shape. Black interior looks original and needs a few seams repaired. Newer radials. The front and rear bumpers are a bit bent up. Most of the door & trunk rubber needs replaced. There is some obvious old body work. New radiator and water pump. The 340 engine sounded good and he said that the transmission was rebuilt as were the brakes. Last inpection expired in 2011. He says some freeze plugs need replaced. His asking price is $9,500 which seems overly optimistic. (My opinion). E-mail me for some better photos. dibarjo@hotmail.com Contact the owner at home 717-597-5065 cell 717-372-2668

Mark: Tom e-mailed me last night and it appears the engine is locked up. Said he was standing on the crank! To try and turn over. Won't budge! He has the starter/gen and water pump off. Larry

Dave : Looks to be a 21 or 22. This has already been on e-bay for over a month. Larry

Talked with Tom last week and he has finally removed the pump and the starter. Still not able to turn over with crank by hand. Had him take plugs out and squirt in Marvel Mystery oil and let soak for several days. Then try again with hand crank and without plugs in. He emailed last night and said it is locked up. This car was not sitting in an uneated barn for 60 years. It is in wonderful exterior condition as it was in a private collection for over 5 years. And in another collection before that. It looks as if at the time it was well restored. When he purchased it in 2010 they said they had it running. Larry

This was my advice to Tom and as of yesterday he informed me.. GOOD NEWS!.. that he has the pump out! And nothing broken! Tom: My thoughts would be to try to drive the shaft out of the gear. Use a slightly smaller steel shaft and good heavy hammer (brass in case you miss.) May have to shim in back of it after retightening the packing gland and collar. This shaft should have a Woodriff type key slot (half Round). Could be who ever made the new water pump shaft reversed the gear and the wear patern on the spiral gear no longer matches. Burrs etc. I will call since I am home. Larry

John: We were to get 8 to 12" here and all that was delivered was about 6". Looks like allis over now. Still we had a snow day! The superintendent sent out the e-mail notifing of school closure yesterday at 3:15. If Tom Pregent north of Harrisburg calls I will go up to help with his locked up water pump/engine on his 1924-45. Otherwise I should start putting things back into the dash of my 1937. Hate to waste a good snow day! Larry

I have read that some installers recomend a light application of powdered graphite on the spilnes. I was going to do that on my 1925-25's clutch hub guides since mine is still sticking. Larry

Mark: That was one of the first places I tried. And their new catalog doesn't have anything close. I do have one (swing down type) to make do untill I find one or have to reproduce the ends. Just don't like to take apart and cut down something to fit if it belongs to another car. Thanks : Larry

Sorry I can't join you fellows as I always wanted to attend. (Someone has to teach the younger generation about CAD, Architecture and Wood Shop). If you are so inclined to be on the look out for some 1925-25 Standard items. Needing a robe rail and always looking for the correct top irons and rear window for my touring. (My irons are cut down from an older car and has the oval Johnson window). Thanks and have a great trip! Larry

John: Saw your McLaughlin badge on E-Bay. Good luck with that. Wow Lee's Herse. What a last ride this would make! Looks to be a 1926 or 27. Wonder what the wheelbase is? 150 inches??? Thats a torque tube and a half. Larry

John: The thrill of accomplishment every time we pick up a missing piece! We will look forward to seeing you and the 23 at the BCA nationals. How is the leak repair on the 28 comming? Larry