dibarlaw

Thanks all who joined in to help with this problem. I have sent my extra pumps. The AC pump may have an 1/8" more movement as noted in my first post. I oppologize to any one who has to work on a car that was partially dissasembled over 20 years ago. I tried to keep track of what I did. Consulted the 37-38 Buick Club's "Torque Tube". Bought parts from vendors that "promised" they were for my 1937-41 special. Restorer 32 has already had to sort through some of the incorrect parts I had assumed were correct. Just hoping this would help. Larry

My son and his family came today for my birthday. His talented wife presented me with this cake. Very Sweet. Larry

Probably should have started this thread here first. My 1937 Buick has been in a shop getting a "driver restoration". I had the tank cleaned prior to it going to the shop. I replaced with a new float and checked the sending unit for proper resistance. They made new fuel line. 3 weeks ago they were having trouble keeping it running. If they filled the carb it would run then starve. I asked then if I could send my spare fuel pumps. I believed that I rebuilt and remounted the pump that came with the car when I drove it home 25 years ago. Now not shure but I checked the 2 I had here at home. The one I rebuilt is an AC and seems to have had better suction. Checking the ones I have here The ACs actuating lever projects out 1 7/16" unloaded, 1 1/4' when spring is compressed (before pressure/tension on diaphram). The other pump which now I believe was the one originally on the car(not rebuilt) is CM brand, has the lever projecting 1 5/16" unloaded and 1 3/16 spring loaded. This past week they said it has the same issue only now after manualy filling the carb bowl it will run at idle. But will run down the battery and still won't get fuel to the carb. They put on another pump from a 1937 248 engine they have in the shop. Same result. Now they are saying that the cam lobe may be worn. Don't see how since the car ran great home and ran well for several years till I removed all accesories when I began to clean up the engine. Should I ask them to check their work? Ie. kinked line, poor seal at sending unit. The car is now 2 hours away and will finally have to send my extra pumps to be checked. I can't check my 20 year library of the "Torque Tube" since they have it at their shop. Larry<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Thanks Pete: Should have prefaced my post that I had the tank cleaned prior to getting it to the shop and they made all new fuel line for it. Mabe I should ask them to check their work ie. kinked line, poor seal at sending unit etc. Larry DiBarry BCA#18395

My 1937 Buick has been in a shop getting a "driver restoration". 3 weeks ago they were having trouble keeping it running. If they filled the carb it would run then starve. I asked then if I could send my spare fuel pumps. I believed that I rebuilt and remounted the pump that came with the car when I drove it home 25 years ago. Now not shure but I checked the 2 I had here at home. The one I rebuilt is an AC and seems to have had better suction. Checking the ones I have here The ACs actuating lever projects out 1 716" unloaded, 1 1/4' when spring is compressed (before pressure/tension on diaphram). The other pump which now I believe was the one originally on the car(not rebuilt) is CM brand, has the lever projecting 1 5/16" unloaded and 1 3/16 spring loaded. This past week they said it has the same issue only now after manualy filling the carb bowl it will run at idle. But will run down the battery and still won't get fuel to the carb. They put on another pump from a 1937 248 engine they have in the shop. Same result. Now they are saying that the cam lobe may be worn. Don't see how since the car ran great home and ran well for several years till I began to clean up the engine. The car is now 2 hours away and will finally have to send my extra pumps to be checked. I can't check my 20 year library of the "Torque Tube" since they have it at their shop. Larry

rhead: Keep us informed of your progress. I have spent almost a year learning about my 1925 model 25. Still much to learn. The people on the forum have been great with their insights and experience. We have to keep this information documented and in circulation since all the people with first generation knowledge are gone. And the second generation is swiftly leaving us. The 24-48 is a very nice car and the four wheel brakes (if properly adjusted and cared for) are very adequate stoppers. Just don't get them wet! Larry

Drove our 1925-25 Buick to church then to the church picnic. Only about 4 miles round trip but no issues, Oh, thats right it did have an issue. As we were driving along I heard a "ting" then pulled over to see what fell off. The right front hubcap took off! The good wife ran back and retrieved it . I replaced it and we went on our way. The 25 got lots of attention at the picnic. Then another friend from church brought his 1949 Buick Roadmaster and parked it by mine. We had a great afternoon!

Brian: Funny you should mention the pivot bolts. My 25 had them but rusty and covered with many coats of primer and paint. As well as the aluminum windshield holder. I cleaned, stripped and re-tapped those bolts (since the outside has the fine internal thread). Then made the large domed cover washer out of some stainless slugs I had. The oval head slotted screws I had to make up from larger hex head machine bolts turned to the proper head contour. Then re-threaded on my lathe and lastly slotted. I found no commercial supplier who stocked stainless slotted oval head screws. Only philips and no fine thread. At least it filled the hole and looks good from a distance.

My prayers to Dave's family. Having gone thru the greuling chemo regiment myself in 2006 for Mantel-cell Lymphoma I am thankfull for every day given me. I have aquired a sense of urgency in what I now do because I dont know if the cancer will return. With the state of treatments now available I was hopefull of Dave's recovery. May he rest in peace. Larry

While I have been busy on trying to get my 1925-25 to run better, I thought I would try to make it look better also. I finally got to take her to a car show saturday without incident (overheating). Many kept asking where the crank was? Since there was that nasty looking, black-rusty stubb sticking out. After checking BOB"S and seeing the $120.00 price tag. I decided to make one up from things found locally. After checking some dimensions with an 1 1/2"dia plastic sink drain tail piece(the I.D. is about 1 3/8"). I found at the local Home Improvement store, 6" long commercial grade 17 gauge chrome plated brass tail drain tube. On my lathe I turned some plugs about 3" long to be a snug sliding fit with a center drill hole for support. This support was needed so I could use a knurling tool to create the textured surface(Knurled). The knurl came out finer than I wanted but it doesn't look bad! I then turned apiece of aluminum to the aproxomate contour of the end. Did tight drive fit leaving a slight shoulder to blend in to the tubing's outside diameter. Laid out the slots for the location bolt drilled 1/4" dia holes the filed to finish. Took me about 3 hours. Cost of material about $6.00. I know it is not one piece and not nickle plated, but looks a lot better than what was not there!! Now a question. Is there to be a spring inside to maintain tension so it won't fall off?

I have actually made some progress on my 1925. Took her to a local car show this weekend without incident. Made new gaskets for the heat riser, blocking all exhaust inlets to the riser. The manifolds were leaking since the spotfaces were not parallel. On one I needed to make a .040 shim. On one stud the nut had bottomed out and the washer was just loose. I made new washers and shims. Retorqued all, and it is amazing how much smoother the old girl runs. I installed the rebuilt vacuum tank(not plumbed in yet). After 4 small trips no overheating, no foaming, no spit ups! I still have to attend to the sticking clutch and redo the brakes on 3 more wheels. But finally some progress on my end. Larry

I did reinstall my vacuum tank on the 1925 Buick, just haven't replumbed it back in. It does seem if I get down to the last gallon it starts to starve. Since I have not put on more than 25 miles since I got the car last October and have gone through 10 gallons of gas(2, 5 gallon cans). Even with some extended idling to check overheating and setting up of engine. I would hope I could get better than 2.5 miles to the gallon!! Took it out to my first car show today. I thought I could get at least some recognition as I thought I was the only entrant in the Antique class. Except they considered cars 25 years or older Antiques. I had the only pre-1953 original type (unmodified). No pre-war class. Only 1 mile away and it cooperated (no overheating). I am still reluctant to drive much farther. That is because there is heavy traffic after that 1 mile distance. I am still having issues with the sticking clutch. This overworks the brakes. As I attempt to stop you feel the engine still driving the wheels with clutch in and brake on, almost to stop before the clutch breaks free and dissengages. On our local highway (route 30) to try to stop short in an emergency and have the clutch not dissengage would be disasterous. I did get brave and drove 2 miles away to get 10 gallons of gas. So this weekend I did about 10 miles so far without issue. Would love to get a tank of ethanol free stuff but the nearest place is about 40 miles away. Larry<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Alan: Thanks for the tip. That may be next to do. I did reinstall my vacuum tank just haven't replumbed it back in. It does seem if I get down to the last gallon it starts to starve. Since I have not put on more than 25 miles since I got the car last October and have gone through 10 gallons of gas(2, 5 gallon cans). Even with some extended idling to check overheating and setting up of engine. I would hope I could get better than 2.5 miles to the gallon!! Took it out to my first car show today. I thought I could get at least some recognition as I thought I was the only entrant in the Antique class. Except they considered cars 25 years or older Antiques. I had the only pre-1953 original type (unmodified). No pre-war class. Only 1 mile away and it cooperated (no overheating). I am still reluctant to drive much further. That is because there is heavy traffic after that 1 mile distance. I am still having issues with the sticking clutch. This overworks the brakes. As I attempt to stop you feel the engine still driving the wheels with clutch in and brake on, almost to stop before the clutch breaks free and dissengages. On our local highway (route 30) to try to stop short in an emergency and have the clutch not dissengage would be disasterous. Larry

Here is a photo of my friend Dick Beckley's stunning 1937 Roadmaster on the way to the Buick Nationals. If better ID on paint is needed I am shure he has all the info needed. Larry

Jeff: I was able to zoom in to actualy read the apllication chart. I looks like this spring fits every thing Buick made except the Standards. As I have a 1925-25 and would like to replace my springs if available. Part #154485 Larry

Pete: Give my regards to Dave and tell him my prayers are for his recovery. I had Mantel-cell Lymphoma stage 4 in 2006. 5 months of chemo then I had a stem cell transplant. I know what he is going through. At the onset of my cancer all I wanted to do was to clean out my stuff. My good wife was my support and kept me focused on that there will be a tomorrow. So far my maker has provided me with 6 extra years of relatively good health. My best wishes: Larry

After I replaced all of the carb/heat riser assembly and reconnected all the linkages it would not start! Removed the fuel line from the carb and checked the fuel pump. It sounded very noisey. I thought that the 3" length of hose connecting the metal line to the pressure regulator was leaking, replaced it again. When switching on the pump, it was quieter and began pumping. Reconnected to carb and she started right up! Idled much better and ran smoother than it ever had. The intake manifold was comfortable/warm to the touch after 10 min of running. Before, after several min it was too hot to touch! And the radiator did not belch water out of the overflow. The next day my wife and I decided to drive the 1925 to a local farmers market to test on the road. Since I only had a little over 1 gal of gas (2" on the dip stick) I added about 3 more gallons of fresh gas. Seemed to start normally, (of course with the sticking clutch I still have to start in gear) and we were off. For about 30 feet.... Then it starved and quit! Wish I had a photo of Joan my wife pushing the Buick back into the garage while I steered! I pulled the fuel line again, switched the pump on again (very noisey and no fuel). Then It quieted down and began pumping again steadilly. I reconnected to carb and tried to start again. Started and ran for several min then quit again. The 6 Volt pump looks fairly recient, within the last 5 years. I guess I will look for other leaks or blockages. I did drain the tank early in the spring. I still haven't gotten around to installing my rebuilt Vacuum tank. Another beautiful late summer day not drivig my "Driver". Larry

Keep us posted on your progress. And a photo or 2 helps. Larry

If you followed my posts on "Ok to block off heat riser," you will see I have been busy on my 1925. After I replaced all of the carb/heat riser assembly and reconnected all the linkages it would not start! Removed the fuel line from the carb and checked the fuel pump. It sounded very noisey. I thought that the 3" length of hose connecting the metal line to the pressure regulator was leaking, replaced it again. When switching on the pump, it was quieter and began pumping. Reconnected to carb and she started right up! Idled much better and ran smoother than it ever had. The intake manifold was comfortable/warm to the touch after 10 min of running. Before, after several min it was too hot to touch! And the radiator did not belch water out of the overflow. The next day my wife and I decided to drive the 1925 to a local farmers market to test on the road. Since I only had a little over 1 gal of gas (2" on the dip stick) I added about 3 more gallons of fresh gas. Seemed to start normally, (of course with the sticking clutch I still have to start in gear) and we were off. For about 30 feet.... Then it starved and quit! Wish I had a photo of Joan my wife pushing the Buick back into the garage while I steered! I pulled the fuel line again, switched the pump on again (very noisey and no fuel). Then It quieted down and began pumping again steadilly. I reconnected to carb and tried to start again. Started and ran for several min then quit again. The 6 Volt pump looks fairly recient, within the last 5 years. I guess I will look for other leaks or blockages. I did drain the tank early in the spring. I still haven't gotten around to installing my rebuilt Vacuum tank. Another beautiful late summer day not drivig my "Driver". Larry

Just got around blocking off my heat riser on my 1925-25. Am trying everything possible to combat the overheating. I made a plug for the exhaust butterfly port, Bought a sheet of high temp metal composite gasket material from NAPA. $10.00. Made up gaskets for top of riser to intake manifold, which looked to be in bad shape. The exhaust port to heat riser without the hole. Also cut a copper plate to go on the heat riser side. Had some .032 copper around and was real easy to cut. As you can see from the photos the side riser to exhaust manifold gasket was leaking. The carb gasket was paper type instead of the high temp copper. After work today I reinstalled all. Tried to start but "Beuhla" was not cooperating. Found that the electric fuel pump not pumping!(I have to install that vacuum tank)! Replaced another leaking piece of hose to the regulator. Now she has fuel!! Started right up and she seems to be running smoother and will idle down better. The manifold to head nuts needed to be tightened also. After about 10 min of running the intake manifold was barely warm. Before, after less than several min you couldn't touch it. While all that structure was off I decided to scrub down that side of the engine and paint it Buick green. Much better than the Model"A" turquoise that was on it. I will try a drive tomorrow and see what happpens. <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Sandy: Just got around blocking off my heat riser on my 1925-25. Am trying everything possible to combat the overheating. I made a plug for the exhaust butterfly port, Bought a sheet of high temp metal composite gasket material from NAPA. $10.00. Made up gaskets for top of riser to intake manifold, which looked to be in bad shape. The exhaust port to heat riser without the hole. Also cut a copper plate to go on the heat riser side. Had some .032 copper around and was real easy to cut. As you can see from the photos the side riser to exhaust manifold gasket was leaking. The carb gasket was paper type instead of the high temp copper. After work today I reinstalled all. Tried to start but "Beuhla" was not cooperating. Found that the electric fuel pump not pumping!(I have to install that vacuum tank)! Replaced another leaking piece of hose to the regulator. Now she has fuel!! Started right up and she seems to be running smoother and will idle down better. The manifold to head nuts needed to be tightened also. After about 10 min of running the intake manifold was barely warm. Before, after less than several min you couldn't touch it. While all that structure was off I decided to scrub down that side of the engine and paint it Buick green. Much better than the Model"A" turquoise that was on it. I will try a drive tomorrow and see what happpens.

Rob: I am thinking more on the line of a 1913 7 passenger Hudson. Most had 10 spoke front wheels at that time. Larry

Dwight: We are hoping the problem is trivial. And a little prayer helps too! Although I have prayed over my 1925 and at least it still tries to run. But I believe that I will have to pull the head since compression is down to around 50 lbs. I don't have a problem pulling the head but worry about what else I will find. Like you, I am about tapped out for money to get things done. And especially infuriating for you is that your engine is still considered a fresh rebuild. We will have to get together as I am at Chambersburg. Not many people around here to talk Buick with. Larry

Dave : Glad to finally meet up with you at the GM show at Rockville MD. Again it is a shame that more pre 1950 cars don't show up at these meets. But I know that if my 1925 was fully functioning, that it would be over a 3 hr drive avoiding major highways. It was great to talk to you personally and use your 1928 as a teaching aid for me. As I said to you I tried to contact all known owners of anything close to my model Buick to start a dialog. The only ones who have been giving of help are Leif in Sweden, Ben in Austraila and Mark in Washington. Thanks for your advice and keep in touch. Larry

Dave: After pulling the rear axle, trans, clutch, springs 24 years ago I went through a hase of adult responsibility and occasionaly was able to steal some time to work on the Buick. In January 2012 I saw that the 37's needs were way beyond my ability to cope with them. That is when I decided to contract out some of the work. The only problem was before they could take the car I had to replace all those drive train parts I removed to get it rolling again. All I know is that a much "younger man" took all that stuff off. Putting in transmissions, rear axles and such while lying on a creeper on a make shift plywood floor could not be defined as fun. With the 1925 Buick I bought as a "driver" I have tried not to get caught in the same trap. I have tried to take care of jobs that I could get done in less than a week. Since we bought the car last October it has not been laid up for more than 3 weeks not running or driving. Of course I did not say all was running or driving well. Good luck: Larry