dibarlaw

Dave: Interesting description about "all original interior and exterior with factory radio and heater". Happy new year. Larry

Sorry to have things veer off topic but overpriced cars are at times just a collection of overpriced parts. That is unless the overall condition is that bad it is only good for parts. When I contacted the seller of the 1925 standard parts I had offered him $500 for all prior to the end of the auction. Including a rotted set of top irons/bows for a roadster. He would not confirm if it still had a back window frame. Which was the only thing I would need. He was not forthcomming in answers to other questions. (If any of the engine accessories were there. Only left side of engine shown without manifold, what was the engine # etc.) He did say the former owner who started the restoration had the engine rebuilt. I would have to pick up all in Tenn. I thought $500 was a fair offer. I believe the engine was shown as sold for $47.00. Again all went to scrap and he had to haul it for $158.00. He said he would keep the rotted collection of rags that was once the top even though I offered his starting bid of $40.00 since they were a no sale on e-bay. Since then he has probably put them in the burn pile. It still hurts. Larry

I can identify with all statements. My experience with an E-Bay sale of 1925 Buick standard parts has taught me to check back with the seller even though it was shown as sold. I missed the time on the auction and even tried to contact the seller and make offers on parts that showed no sale. Finally reached him 5 days after the auction. He informed me that no one sent him any money or e-mailed him about his parts so he took all to scrap and got $158.00. That included 4 wood wheels rims & tires front and rear axle and torque tube with brake hardware. Spare tire carrier. The engine was supposidly rebuilt with the transmission. Parts were stripped from a partialy restored roadster that he planned on "rodding". The bumpers he kept because he could cut them up for flat stock!!! I asked if I could contact the scrap yard. He said " it was no use since they dun chunked it all up as I brung it in. And they busted the transmission off the engine with the magnet". It still hurts!

Jerry: Check to see that the belt isn't slipping. I went thru all the same route with my 1937-41. (See thread on 37 charging issues). A new belt and adjusted generator bracket did wonders! Larry

Fred: I just got my last vote in. I see that we are still well over 1000 votes behind the nasty GMC truck. Sorry but we fought the good fight. Keep us in the loop on your progress and how we can help. Larry

After checking threads on Marvels I am trying to come to grips with with a possible change over. Since carbking gave it a #2 rating out of 10 # 1 being worst. In other posts I have outlined my extream dissapointment of not having my 37 able to drive to the Buick nationals. The restoration shop did promise that it would be able to do so .... Well after 3 months of "tweaking" I am still not able to drive reliably around town. The BD-1 that was finally installed 22 years after it's rebuilding is having issues. The restoration shop said "they tuned it the best they could" but the throttle plate shaft needed rebushed and accelerator pump leathers were dried out. They did not want to do any thing else to the carb at the risk of being accused of padding the bill. Idles very rough, sputtering. My first course of action was to send out my spare BD-1 for a fresh rebuild. But after the poor comments about it's performance. It seems that would be a waste of time and money. I already have over $100 in the first rebuild plus $50 for used spare (1989 dollars). The comments in the 1937-38 Buick "Torque Tube"over the years indicate that it was serviceble but the Stromberg AAV-1 was better (ranks #4 on carbking's list). The problem is that the car is setup for the Marvel originaly. With its properly functioning Delco choke unit and vacuum switch. I would like to keep things functionally original if possible with out spending hundreds of dollars on on another adapted carb and it's matching accessories. If they can be had. But I would like to get it to the BCA nationals in 2013. The car car was driven home in 1987 and ran smooth with good acceleration. And for 2 years after with this Marvel BD-1 before I decided to start to work on the car. Larry

Fred : Just tossed in another vote. As a caretaker of a 1925-25 Buick touring and having worked on a 1922-45 touring. These cars are a true labor of love to keep on the road. I have some good detail photos of the 1922 if you need them. Larry

Pete : Thanks for the story of "The BUICK SELF-SHIFTER CHRISTMAS MIRACLE". Maybe you could submit a script to the "Halmark Channel". We know how contrary these things are if they are not run. If the car comes to Pennsylvania have them get in touch with me here in Chambersburg. Merry Christmas! Larry

Thought I would try a more basic solution to my non charging situation on my 37. After cleaning and tightening all the loose connections and redoing the incorrectly placed ones on the new wiring harness (as installed by the "restoration shop"). Then cleaning and checking the regulator. Same problem. My next step was to remove the generator and have the place that rebuilt it 20 years ago recheck.(It was just installed for the first time in Aug.) Before I fought to take it off again I checked the fan belt. I could move the generator pulley easily and the bracket adjustment was at its limit. I had included an older NOS belt to be installed when the other work was done. They put the old cracked, stretched and glased one that was on the car when I drove it home in 1987. I went to "Central Tractor" and bought a new belt and installed. It is now showing charge more uniformly. Since Sept I was afraid to try to drive it out of the garage after the break-down when it was first delivered home to me from the "restoration shop". So I got brave and took it out yesterday and did drive about 5 miles with no problem. The carb will still need attention. After I brought the 37 home I took "Beulah" (our 1925) out for some exercize also. (Still dealing with sticking clutch and oil leaking on to fan belt.) Today I thought we would drive the 37 to church then to grocery store which we did. On the way home it quit at the intersection near our home. I did get it restarted but there are still fuel issues. It sat for about an hour in front of the house. It started ok but when I turned it into the drive it started bucking and quit. I pumped the accelerator pump at the carb to get it restarted and it ran ok afterward to be able to back into garage. After warming up the ammeter is still hovering close to 0. But at least this time there was not a dead battery after 4 miles of driving. Larry <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Thought I would try a more basic solution to my non charging situation on my 37. After cleaning and tightening all the loose connections and redoing the incorrectly placed ones on the new wiring harness (as installed by the "restoration shop"). Then cleaning and checking the regulator. Same problem. My next step was to remove the generator and have the place that rebuilt it 20 years ago recheck.(It was just installed for the first time in Aug.) Before I fought to take it off again I checked the fan belt. I could move the generator pulley easily and the bracket adjustment was at its limit. I had included an older NOS belt to be installed when the other work was done. They put the old cracked, stretched and glased one that was on the car when I drove it home in 1987. I went to "Central Tractor" and bought a new belt and installed. It is now showing charge more uniformly. Since Sept I was afraid to try to drive it out of the garage after the break-down when it was first delivered home to me from the "restoration shop". So I got brave and took it out yesterday and did drive about 5 miles with no problem. The carb will still need attention. After I brought the 37 home I took "Beulah" (our 1925) out for some exercize also. (Still dealing with sticking clutch and oil leaking on to fan belt.) Today I thought we would drive the 37 to church then to grocery store which we did. On the way home it quit at the intersection near our home. I did get it restarted but there are still fuel issues. It sat for about an hour in front of the house. It started ok but when I turned it into the drive it started bucking and quit. I pumped the accelerator pump at the carb to get it restarted and it ran ok afterward to be able to back into garage. After warming up the ammeter is still hovering close to 0. But at least this time there was not a dead battery after 4 miles of driving. Larry

Fred: I have voted twice a day at home and work computer for the last 2 weeks. Dosen't seem to moving out of 3rd place. Lets all keep pushing Larry

Rob: A 733 Packard I had seen under restoration was countersprung and was as easy to lift as a normal trunk lid. (Not the trunk on my 37 Buick though its heavy). But I should have had to take some pictures. Maybe the next car show where one shows up someone may take some video of emerging passengers. Larry

"Phaeton" in an earlier time is a carrage makers term for the 4 passenger open carrage with a colapsible top. I admit I have seen very little actual period use photos of Dual Cowls. Mostly only in advertisements. I have seen a few late 1920s and early 1930s films that do show them. Last night on TCM they showed the 1932 MGM "GRAND HOTEL". In the final scene people were leaving the hotel. Greta Garbo in a Hispano Suisa Limo, Lionel Barrymore and Joan Crawford in a Town car style Taxi cab. Then a big European Dual Cowl shows up covered in road dirt. A newly wed couple with driving caps and goggles get out and the chauffer (also with goggles) is in the back. The chauffer lifts the hinged cowl and takes over driving the car to the garage. Both the front and rear windshields were folded down. Both the couple and chauffer were filthy from road dirt. So that is how the sporting set drove these cars. Larry

Joe : I know the feeling. I had worked for 7 1/2 years in a foundry machine shop. I loved working on the Bullards, LeBlonds, Cincinnatis Hendeys, Warner Swaseys etc. If the place had not shut down(Combustion Engineering, East Monongahela Pa.) I would probably still be there. Instead I have taught Industrial Arts (now Tech Ed) for the last 28 years. I still don't know what I want to do when I grow up! Keep At It! Larry

Bill : Thanks for the update. I was wondering if you had found the culprit! Very feasable senario. Again we are glad you were not injured (except emotionally about the damage done to the car). How are the repairs coming. I am hoping to see you and your 29 in South Bend. Larry DiBarry

Marty: Thanks for the compliment .. I only wish it was mine. It is the mechanical marvel ..Joe Kieliszek's. The only contact I have had with a car near as old was when I asked about your 1914 B-37. Larry DiBarry

Joe: Yes I believe the best place for an initial showing should be at the BCA meet in South Bend. I am planning on being there. And since I will also go to Hershey I would have the pleasure of seeing it twice! Don't forget I signed up for a ride! Larry

Brian: I tried to get some information from the deceased's brother about the history on the car. But he was not interested in talking about it. All that he told us was that his brother bought it in western Pa. during the late 1980s and paid $20,000 for it. And that someone offered $36,000 a couple of years ago. He told the BCA member who bought the parts that the brother bought them from someone in Buffalo NY for $5,000. I always ask about a car's history. I realize that many could care less. I am still trying to get information about my 1925-25 as it's history dead ends to about 11 years ago. The person I bought it from said he shredded all his old paper work and did not remember. I know someone had to fix it up over 30 years ago. I will have to next check in the AACA archives for a possible former owner. Larry

Hudwud: No need to apologize. I agree with Rob about takeing what you posted as a treat! I have a nice picture file of many of the "Barn Finds" when posted. If it were closer I would try to get more info about it. I love to get some history on any Buicks of that era. But after a long search for the right car I have gotten very skeptical about descriptions. I did buy my 1925-25 based on the owners description and assurances. Others, please learn from my mistake! Paid about $5,000 more than value. Just like to keep others aware and focused. Thanks for posting: Larry

Rob: I liked your comment about the vacuum cleaner bag. Very limited information to get anyone interested at that price. Running condition? I have encountered this statement. Sometimes can be translated to its other variants. "Ran when we parked it 50 years ago. Barely ran when we tried it. Can be made to run." Of course I would have to call before I pass judgment. On another thread this past June John Fesser and I tried to get a 1922-45 going for a fellow in Baltimore. We were unsuccessful. Many problems to straighten out. That 1922-45 is now for sale at $9,000. Its description is that it was a "show car"but has sat for over 4 years and needs some carburetor work to get running. I have encountered the problems that can arise from an automobiles 50 year sit. Systems need cleaned, repaired, rebuilt etc. All this work should be reflective in the price asked. The $15,000 would be more in line for a running, driving, good physical condition and well cared for example. I know with the 1922-45 that the family did not want to put any more money into bringing it back for sale. If you are asking top dollar the car should be well presented. It may be that the allure of the "Barn Find"may win out. The ad for the Baltimore 1922 only shows what it looked like 8 years ago, "show car". Not the neglected, modified, partialy dissasembled Buick that we found. Larry

Joe: Truly a thrill to see and hear it running. Really made my day! I only hope we can see the car and owner in person some day. Larry

With the 2 step running boards and angled hood louvers an Oldsmobile Limited come to mind. Larry

Yes it is threaded. But as I said it would take some delicate work to break it loose in one piece. Probably has become more work than it was worth. Thank you for your efforts. Larry

31DH: There will be 3 openings. Looking from the rear on far left will be the fuel pick up line. Just a brass hex nut that secures the fuel line. Towards the center should be a knurled collar if it survived. It will take some finness to get these apart without destroying what is there. under the collar would be a glass lens (probably broken) and gaskets. The gage is what I need. A round brass sphere with some markings attached to a rod then to a cork float. The least I can hope for is enough pieces to develop paterns to fabricate the broken pieces. Thank you : Larry

Leif: When I get my pictures organized I will do another thread on what I did to my 25. The cast iron 24? dist I bought at auction 2 weeks ago fit perfectly. My old one was a cobbled up mess. It was amazing the car ran at all! Larry