dibarlaw

The photo is of a 1926 model 44 Master and should be the olive green as shown. Can be had from Bob's Automobilia.

Great when you come across things that for years you had assumed to be correct then have been re-educated. I came across an old Antique car calendar from 1972 and this was described as a 1915 6 cylinder Buick. But really looks like the 4 cylinder 1918 E-37. Even my Gunnell's 3rd edition of Standard Catalog of Buick has massive amounts of miss-information. Mostly incorrectly identified photos. More interesting on this print is that it shows the exterior frames in natural wood. I am still not convinced that is the way it should be. Could be an artists rendition of a 1960s restoration. I know my 1918 catalog shows no enclosed bodies on the 4 cylinder chassis to be able to check. I would think Buick would have to have sent an advance pamphlet to dealers. As this was a mid year addition.

The personal message I sent to him on Nov 4th was the same as my previous post. Then I sent another PM and asked for a phone # and address so I could reach him and there was no response.

This Larry of the DiBarry variety. Not of the Schramm variety. After all you did ride with us in our 37 on the after tour!

Just got off the phone from Doo Dah America. He was checking to see if we still had power after the ice storms. All is well in Franklin county. Thought I would post some of the pictures of the aforementioned foot rests. Since we had a snow day and I had some time between bouts of chipping ice. I thought I would finish the foot rest for my 1925-25. The last two photos show how I had to use a center punch to collapse the badly pitted 1" steel tubing to get it to pull away from the cast aluminum ends. What was unexposed showed nickel plating. The crack on the aluminum ends was started probably when the spiral drive rivets were installed when new. Of course with the corrosion making the hole smaller and the pipe larger. Also had to drill out the 1/4" rivets that the ends pivot on the floor mounts. I filed off the drive rivet heads, punched them out into the tube. Then I was able to carefully tap with a hardwood block until the two pieces separated. I repaired the cracks with "Molecular Bonder" glue product and used a hose clamp to get back into shape. Then used some "JB weld" as a filler. The replacement 1" tube I tried to find locally at a plumbing supply house. I would have had to buy a 24' length! I went to LOWES instead and bought a nickel/chrome look adjustable shower rod. Leif Holmberg from Sweden verified that the ends should be black. With the ends painted up it looks quite serviceable. I had a sufficient length of heavy wall stainless steel pipe but it would have weighted well over 5 lbs. Thanks again to Terry Weigand for his participation in the Footrest exchange program. Larry

Found a timely winter picture of a model 20. Considering we were digging out again today.

Page 86 in Floyd Clymer's Treasury Of early American Automobiles shows the little 1909 Hupmobile model 20 at $750.00. The ad print shows the car sans top, lamps and windshield. That was all you got for the $750.00 Probably another $100 to outfit as shown in the photo of your grandfathers car.

My experience with a new wiring harness... Some of the solutions outlined above are what I requested the shop that did the work on my 1937-41 to preform. I requested that the wiring harness be modified to include turn signals. I checked with Rode Island wiring first to make sure they could do it. This was the shops suggested supplier. No problem. The car was to be ready to drive to the 2012 National. I really wanted to participate because of the 75 anniversary push. They started on the work in January to do the evaluation. They guaranteed (verbal) that it would be able to be driven to the meet. No internal engine work, no chrome, glass, or upholstery was going to be done. My "To-be-done" list included the wiring harness. Well, in April they then said I would need one. I reminded them that it was already on the list. They then said they couldn't get the car done when promised because the harness would need at least a months lead time. When May arrived and they still had not started on the wiring. I checked with RI wiring and they said they had it in stock and the shop had not ordered it at that time. By this time we know we made a mistake but they had the car and thousands of my dollars. Also the car was not going to be delivered when promised. Each time we stopped to check(only once a month) it looked like they just pulled it out to look busy on it. Along with the harness work they were to weld up and body finish /paint the (4) 1 1/2" holes in the front and rear fenders that was where the late 1940s style turn signals were mounted. Fast forward to July. They were finally getting to the harness and rust patch on the bottom of the drivers door. The door was on a stand near their paint booth. I was visiting to check on progress with the former Director of the Mason-Dixon club in August. I had hoped another experienced member of the hobby could help get them off of dead center. The door was still off and sitting in the same place when I was there in July. They said that they were having a problem getting it started because the rebuilt fuel pumps were not working. Other long story... But the owners son was very proud of the fact that all the lights were now working. I asked where the turn signal switch went to since the one that was on the steering column was gone. He gave me a blank stare with an expression that told me that he didn't know what I was talking about. I was just about in a rage when my friend and the owner came over to reassure me that it would be all taken care of. Meaning that they did not get the turn signal included harness. Taking care of it was that I have now have 2 extra wire looms going along side the correct type + an extra $103 in extra parts. My advice is to check and double check! They trailered it back to my home.(They did not have enough confidence in there work that I could drive it 45 miles home).When the car finally arrived and we test drove it around town it quit a mile from my house. When I checked the rebuilt generator and other electrical connections I found some wrong connections and almost all were loose. With a year of ("tweaking") we were able to drive it to the 2013 Nationals in South Bend. 1,553 mile round trip!

Started up Beulah last Tuesday since we had another snow day! Our 4th, the summer is getting shorter for me. Also started Lucy the 1937. Still a bitter cold day. High around 20 degrees. Had to play with the choke after she started to run to keep her running but after a minute she smoothed out with the choke pushed in. Ran both cars for about a half an hour and both seemed very happy. Tonight I will put the warming glow of 100 watt incandescent bulbs around the engines. It is to go below 0. I had drained the radiators and refilled with fresh antifreeze. There was already a 50/50 mix. But even with the higher concentration my tester says things are only good for +10 degrees. Burrrrr

Since we were on the South Bend museum tour apparently I did not get the message. No one came up to me and told me to move my shabby 1,553 mile round trip 1937-41 from the field. When I judged on Saturday morning is when I noticed all the driven cars in the lot across the street. Someone I overheard later said it should have been moved. Oh well, sorry if I upset any of my neighbors.

Don't know if any of you have seen one so I am attaching a Marvel calibration chart with the first 2 entries applying to our cars. Float height to be 9/16" measured from the top of the bowl. I bought the booklet "How to Overhaul a Marvel Carbureter", From "BOBS" and the same chart was in it. Also a Mason-Dixon Buick club member who just bought a 1931 96S Sport Coupe', sent me a copy of an original. He received much original paperwork with the Buick Engineering Department Stamp on it! The Marvel book I bought has some good tips and some illustrations dealing with Marvels up to 1932. I tried to start my car the week before the cold set in so I could circulate the added anti freeze. It was only good to +15 degrees. First it flooded badly then was starving ??? Today it was 55 degrees here so I thought I would try again. I used the electric pump to prime the vacuum tank until I heard the tank float flip. Started right up and quickly died like it was starving. Did this several times. I noticed that there was no fuel flowing into the fuel filter below the Vacuum tank. I disconnected the fuel line below the tank shut off valve. Barely a trickle at full open. So I removed the valve, disassembled and found a blockage. A small glob of RTV blue sealer that probably came from when I sealed the top of the tank. I drained the vacuum tank to check for any other debris. Reinstalled all, started her right up! Could now watch the fuel now flowing thru the filter andhear the tank cycling. Ran her for a half hour till warm. Tomorrow may try for another ride.

We are conditioned to have audio with all video clips now. Again this was probably a 16MM film home movie from around 1930. Sound at Movie theaters did not become commonplace till around 1930. I was still using a Kodak super 8 camera to film my new family in the early 1980s no sound. In the film, M.J. Consintino also carries Studebaker and Erskine. I like the comparison of the Packard with the Bantam. Also quite common for the time 3 different brands of gasoline.

While watching the Packard videos that THE OLD MOTOR linked on YouTube. I came upon this home movie. Shows a Packard dealership and the mechanics are getting an "Old trade in"??? going and driving it around the lot. A Royal? Looks to be quite modified. After a beach scene it shows a 1927-28 Packard Phaeton with a well dressed lady and her Collie. Almost like they were duplicating a Packard ad of the times.

Chuck: Just checking my 1931-32 Fisher Body Service Manual to see if there is enough space under the front seat of the Sport Coupe. Appears as if there is enough space. That is where the tools usually go. If you check back thru the forum you may find some answers as to the supplied tools. I check about the year for my car (1925) on e-bay each week and there always appears an ad for complete tool sets for GM cars, at horrific prices! Some year Buick parts book give a complete rundown of tools and other years may just show an occasional tool on a page associated with that group in the book. Example; ignition wrench on the page with distributor parts breakdown. Still have to get up and see your car! Larry

Welcome John! I don't know what I would do without the great people on these forums. I will be waiting to see your Buick stuff! On the Buick Club Pre war forum is where I usually "lurk". I have belonged to the Buick Club of America since 1987 as it took me that long to get my 1937 back on the road last year. Now that I have a driver I joined the AACA in 2012. Larry

I am looking at the Matheson section of the "1908 Handbook of Gasoline Automobiles". Even the lowest price runabout @ $5,250 was rated at 50 HP. Shows 4 models. Runabout, 7 passenger Touring, Landaulet, and Limousine at $6,500. All show Bore 5", Stroke 6", double chain drive, 4 forward speeds, low tension Bosh Magneto. Quite a beast! Amazed at the technology involved to make a spark!

Going thru some of my old books I came across MAKE IT YOURSELF a compilation of how-to items from Popular Mechanics circa 1927 and earlier. Just recalling the fine time had on the Pre-War after tour. The one unfortunate incident was when Dandy Dave lost a bearing on the Chartruse Lady. The 5 mile flat tow back to the motel was an adventure in itself! Wonder if Dave has ever heard of this home/farm remedy? A Bacon-Rind Auto Bearing When a tourist burns out two connecting rod bearings, 40 miles from a town where repairs can be made, it is quite a temptation to ride on slowly risking greater damage to the engine. Being in such a predicament recently, and not having any repair parts so that I could do the repair at once, the most promising emergency repair which occurred to me was to use a piece of ordinary bacon rind as I well remembered how hard and tough this became when cooked. A strip about 2in. wide and 12in.long, was hammered flat to drive out as much grease as possible, reducing it to a hard, tough piece. This was cut into a number of smaller strips just large enough to replace the babbitt burned from the bearings. They were carefully fitted in place and the connecting-rod caps drawn up tight. After replacing the oil pan and oil. I started the motor and no knock of any kind was noticeable. I drove to the nearest town, but not finding the condition any worse, decided not to put new bearings in there. Since that, I drove the car over 5,000 miles with these bacon-rind bearings without experiencing any trouble. _____ H.G. Borland, Asheville, North Carolina It would be hard enough to find someone within 40 miles to redo bearings on my 1925.(more like 400 miles now) but I know of a "hog finishing farm" just outside of town........

NCMark: Welcome to the forum. Great resources have been indicated above. We have a 1937-41 which we have owned since 1987 at which time I joined the BCA and 1937-38 Club. This past summer we finally were able to participate with our car at the South Bend Nationals. Better late than never. We also did the Pre-War after tour with a great bunch of people. We had a BLAST! I live about an hour from Hershey and probably passed you in the rain. Please use the forum as there is always an answer available. The photo is of the PRE-WAR group in front of the Auburn-Cord Duesenberg museum

Thanks Dave. Made us smile!

Looks great to me. We were interested in the one that was for sale at Danvers in 2011. Bill McLaughlin evaluated it for Joan and I. A fairly rough one. Pictures were in the Bugle. I believe with a price in the mid 20K to 30K range. I would think though this one would be limited to collectors of fire service memorabilia. Even at the right price I would still remove the siren etc.

Jerry and Dave: Thanks for the thoughts. Seems to have dissipated so the what may have been in the riser and manifold is done. I also think since it has been cold what does drip does not evaporate as readily as at 90 degrees. Here in Pa. it may be close to 60 degrees this weekend so we may take Beulah out for a spin and check again. Larry

We would like to say that we are "pumped" for Christmas!

Gee. I didn't even get to check my books before you fellas had it solved. I concur with Rod. It is a 1924 model 33, 4 passenger coupe. 5,479 produced. There has been a radiator for this model on e-bay for many months.

I would suggest also sending this over to the Buick Forum for sale. Also would need information as to exact body style, mileage, asking price and location. I have a 37-41 4 door sedan driver. (Looks like a used car from 1950). We were able to drive it to South Bend from central Pa. With the 1987 purchase price and the work done over the last 2 years I probably have over $25,000 in it. I could have bought some much nicer older restorations for about half that price. Passion went a bit astray.