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Everything posted by dibarlaw
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Lamar : What is the status on the 1923 McLaughlin Sport Roadster?
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1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)
dibarlaw replied to Gary W's topic in Buick - Pre War
Gary: Thank you for the photos of the battery box. Mine has some cobbled rods and 2" straps holding a wooden board on my car. I had never seen one not rotted away. I am glad that you are at the point of getting the paint work started. As one who has a Black car and wishes it was the Hampton gray it is supposed to be I can only mourn your decision. I have found over the years about 10 black Buicks to every other color they are supposed to be. This is what my car is supposed to look like in Hampton Gray. At least I had the wheels painted in case I ever had my ship come in.. Keep up the great work: Larry -
Brian : I had to make a setting die to open up the cap wire end connectors. It seems that the only ones they sent me also were for 7mm wires.
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Brian: So glad you are back making miles again! Larry
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In the AACA general Forum "1937 hd45" was looking for comments on a mystery chassis. A link to the HAMB discussion thread showed some suggestions one was a 1926 Buick and this photo showed up. 1937 hd45: Thanks for starting this inquiry. The photo of the 1926 Buick on the HAMB sight was the first car I was thinking about buying when we were "looking for a driver Buick" on the forum back in 2010-2011. When I responded to the craigslist ad out of Pittsburgh PA. the only 2 photos were of terrible low resolution and postage stamp size. A 1926 Buick Touring car..... $18,000. Not much more information. Other than it had a flipped manifold and that the interior was done in brown vinyl. I did some quick research and found that Buick did not make a 2-Door touring until 1932. Even though the photos were terrible I could tell that it was a cut down 2 door Standard coach. I always wanted to see what the car really looked like. Larry
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1920's Cadillac chassis photo or illustration needed
dibarlaw replied to 1937hd45's topic in General Discussion
1937 hd45: Thanks for starting this inquiry. The photo of the 1926 Buick on the HAMB sight was the first car I was thinking about buying when we were "looking for a driver Buick" on the forum back in 2010-2011. When I responded to the craigslist ad out of Pittsburgh PA. the only 2 photos were of terrible low resolution and postage stamp size. A 1926 Buick Touring car..... $18,000. Not much more information. I did some quick research and found that Buick did not make a 2-Door touring and even though the photos were terrible I could tell that it was a cut down 2 door Standard coach. I always wanted to see what the car really looked like. Larry -
MikeC5: I think these Maxwell top sockets are close to what you had posted before. I was hoping yours would be what was on my 1925 Buick Standard. Photo of Hugh from Texas original car top. Probably yours would work but not the same style as mine is to be. I already have an older, cut down set that just does not look right. Cut down on rearmost socket and still 3" too tall. The top folds but is quite a mess as a stack.
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Dave: Your opinion on the top. You mentioned on another post about the early original tops having a light colored interior face as this one does. One may hope to find a car with an original top to be serviceable but of course this does not look like this one would be. Worn spots, a few holes. To me it looks to have been re-topped in the 1950s when it went back on the road for a while (1956 Oregon plate). I know that Stitts had an article from the 1950s on "re-topping the open car". I believe some of the material he had used in the photos had the light inside face. I will have to dig out the article. Larry
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Brian: I can send you one of mine until they restock. Larry
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Pete : Your power lead should have a fuse in the line. Immaculate external condition means nothing on the radio's functioning condition. Capacitors and resistors have changed value or shorted out from age. Interior wiring is very brittle. The rubber power and antenna plug fittings on mine crumbled away. On my car I still would have to change out the rubber covered shielded antenna wires to the running boards and get new insulators. The mechanical vibrators usually fail. I have not been able to get into redoing my radio. I use a portable sometimes for company. The $$$ quotes to just get the radio back to functioning tells me I can live with out it for the time being. AM radio is mostly Sports and Talk anyway. When I bought the car in the 1980s there was still some Big Band type stations in our area. I never got into servicing antique radios even though I had been collecting them for over 50 years. I was able to do machine work and cabinet work that I would trade for my electronically skilled friends services. The trouble is all my friends who did this work have passed on. Larry
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Here is what the one I made for my 1925 Standard looks like. Now I have to make another for my 1925 Master.
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More sets have surfaced but too large. We will keep looking.
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FOR SALE: 1921 Special Six Touring Studebaker 1924 Big 6 Touring Studebaker Both cars are fully restored. $60,000 or best offer for both cars. Also available, an abundance of new/old stock parts and equipment for both automobiles. Photos available upon request. If interested, please contact me: wolf@epix.net Edited Thursday at 08:56 PM by Marie Snyder (see edit history)
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To AACA Buy Sell
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Others who said that they may have something close have not come thru yet so BTT.
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Bob: Thank you. This is the color I could really see the car having. The former owner painted the car in lacquer in the early 70s. A medium/dark blue. Not as dark as the cobalt. Then in the early 80s he repainted over top of the darker blue in what I would call "Earl Sheib Blue". I could have lived with the darker color but not this light blue. Email sent. Larry
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What Was The First Car You Ever Drove?
dibarlaw replied to Brass is Best's topic in General Discussion
The first car was our 1963 Buick Skylark. 215 CU.V8 with 200HP. That poor little car was sorry the day it met me! The first 3 speed was my 1937 IHC D-2 pick up. Another long story.... -
Brian: I hope your quest ends soon. The caps in my photos were what you may call "20 footers". I believe there is one useable one in the group. The photos here are of the later IHC (DELCO) distributor that the previous owner of my Master had adapted and installed in the 1970s. That is where probably one of my crumbling die-cast distributors originally lived. Cap, rotor, points and condenser available at NAPA. All probably less than $30. It is adjusted by the side clamp in the 2nd photo. What can I say. It works great. And it takes 7mm wire. I still have to change out the John Deere green plug wires. Larry
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1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)
dibarlaw replied to Gary W's topic in Buick - Pre War
Gary: What a lovely symphony! They are quiet as a lamb when the valves are set correctly. And see, they will run with a Marvel. I simply could not bite the bullet and change around all the linkages and such. I have put on close to 9,000 miles on my car with the Marvel and I feel it runs fine. As I told carbking, someday, I would like to experience how it would run with the better carb. Congratulations: Larry -
Terry : In Dave's article he shows that each year the cobalt blues crossed to the more modern, non metallic (post war) close matches.. Original color Substitute Ditzler (PPG)# DuPont# 1921-1923 Dark Blue Color Var. 1952 Studebaker Nocturne Blue 10989 93-57068 1924 Cobalt Blue Med. Color Var. 1954 Ford Sheridan Blue 10428 246-81501 1925 Cobalt Blue 244-3198 1953 Chrysler Huron Blue 10027 246-81580 The 1953 Chrysler Huron Blue showed up as a very light blue. But, the #s Dave gave for it are for a 1941-1951 Chrysler Newport Blue. Looking at all these cross referenced blues each are a different shade when compared. The 1925 Limousine Blue 244-787 1949 Mercury Alberta Blue 10480 246-55106 Looked even darker when compared to the others on the web paint cross referencing sites. 1924 Model 49 should be Cobalt Blue if correct and I really like the color. 1924-44 also to be Cobalt Blue that sold on e-bay last year.
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Does any one have a formula for a close match for the 1925 Cobalt Blue. I was able to get the 1925 Brewster Green matched by a chip that Hugh in Texas gave me. I used the information from the 1971 AACA Antique Automobile Buick Article by Dave Chambers. The matches were for car colors that were already 20 or more years old. Also, they were for the Duco or Dulux formulations. The PPG numbers gave me a good dark blue on the web color match sites but our local paint supplier does not have a cross reference. So I would need a formula or a chip of paint to scan into their equipment. 1925-45 with mostly original Cobalt Blue. Cobalt Blue.docx
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1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)
dibarlaw replied to Gary W's topic in Buick - Pre War
Gary... We are pulling for you.. Countdown...10, 9, 8..... Larry -
Lamar: Good luck with that. My wife was all for the purchase of the Vermont Sport roadster. I wish I had taken a photo of her when we were sitting in it. All smiles! But, it is not a little roadster, it is a big car! 124" WB on the model 54 compared to 105" WB on the model 39. Before we went to get that car I had a layout sketched out on the garage floor to make sure it fit as the bumpers added a foot or more to the length. My 1925 Master Touring with 120" WB and WEED bumpers front and rear fits comfortably with just enough room to walk around it. Larry
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Larry: The 1928 and up caps are available at NAPA. 1927 and before are not as I have tried. Terry, the photo I took of my cap was taken after I wiped the lube off. Shine reflection you know. The slight burn tracking at the time concerned me. Even so ... my service manual does not use the term smear, more like coat sparingly. The same with the point to cam rubbing block. I have a tube of the DELCO cam lube. Out of my collection of crumbling die-cast distributors, one of the rotor buttons was worn almost down to the spring. The cap inside was scarred and I was able to chuck it up in the lathe and reface the contact surface. I was able to save one of 4 rough original brown bakelite numbered caps. The others were cracked and on another the wire towers had water/ mud wasp nest in them, had frozen at one time and broke. The other Larry