Beemon

The "save gas" feature came from their variable dwell setting in the ignition module based off of RPM and the hall effect. Like I said, it worked, just didn't intend to walk home to get the tools.

Wasn't there a thread after Allentown about a few blow outs with the bias ply tires being made today and them not being DOT certified?

Fridays are trash days for me, I would have been digging through the land fill.

Even harder to find a shop that will do a kingpin suspension. All I ever wanted was a tie rod adjustment but noooo.

How many times did it take you all to realize that you had to stop making dumb choices when it came to cars? I got a replacement ignition module from a well known company to replace the module that failed before, stranding me at the college. They boast that the module saves you gas mileage, but I guess they mean by walking because that's what happened after work tonight. It was 35* outside and by the time I snapped the distributor cap back on, my fingers were numb. Keep it simple, stupid! I'm still learning.

The white blocks I'm guessing are the ballast resistors. The correct replacement resistor for the blower is a 1.35 ohm resistor, which is part number ICR11 at NAPA. You can look up the interchange and get it anywhere local. Basically the high setting wire (brown) will be connected to the resistor with the blower motor on the same terminal, while the low setting wire (yellow?) is on the other resistor terminal.

Will also be posting this in the Chevy forums, too. For sale is a 1955 date coded electric windshield wiper motor. I have personally gone through this motor and removed all the old grease and re-lubricated the motor. The lead wire is blue instead of brown, since the original wire was broken off at the base of the armature cover and blue is all I had (brown wasn't available at the counter). The lead wire also does not have a connection on it and the wire is very long so it can be wired anywhere with switched 12V (reaches from wiper mount to the battery as it currently is). The riveted ground wire is also broken off, but the motor grounds through the feet anyways (that's where the ground wire hooked to). Both speeds work and so does the self park feature. The plastic control arm is also broken but has been glued back together and has been holding together during bench tests. Replacements are $7. I was originally going to put this on my 56 Buick, but it was too trouble some to adapt. I want $225 firm from 98031. Professionally restored wiper motors range from $275 to $350 online, so I think this is fair. The cost will cover a Newport kit for my Buick. Willing to work on price. Video of motor working.

For sale is a 1955 date coded electric windshield wiper motor. I have personally gone through this motor and removed all the old grease and re-lubricated the motor. The lead wire is blue instead of brown, since the original wire was broken off at the base of the armature cover and blue is all I had (brown wasn't available at the counter). The lead wire also does not have a connection on it and the wire is very long so it can be wired anywhere with switched 12V (reaches from wiper mount to the battery as it currently is). The riveted ground wire is also broken off, but the motor grounds through the feet anyways (that's where the ground wire hooked to). Both speeds work and so does the self park feature. The plastic control arm is also broken but has been glued back together and has been holding together during bench tests. Replacements are $7. I was originally going to put this on my 56 Buick, but it was too trouble some to adapt. I want $225 firm from 98031. Professionally restored wiper motors range from $275 to $350 online, so I think this is fair. The cost will cover a Newport kit for my Buick. Willing to work on price. Video of motor working.

Will also be posting this in the Chevy forums, too. For sale is a 1955 date coded electric windshield wiper motor. I have personally gone through this motor and removed all the old grease and re-lubricated the motor. The lead wire is blue instead of brown, since the original wire was broken off at the base of the armature cover and blue is all I had (brown wasn't available at the counter). The lead wire also does not have a connection on it and the wire is very long so it can be wired anywhere with switched 12V (reaches from wiper mount to the battery as it currently is). The riveted ground wire is also broken off, but the motor grounds through the feet anyways (that's where the ground wire hooked to). Both speeds work and so does the self park feature. The plastic control arm is also broken but has been glued back together and has been holding together during bench tests. Replacements are $7. I was originally going to put this on my 56 Buick, but it was too trouble some to adapt. You need a 3/16" spacer from the motor to the wiper transmission and I didn't feel good modifying the base. The screw holes are also straight rather than offset like the Special/Century (Roadmaster/Super are straight like tri-five Chevy's). I want $225 firm from 98031. Professionally restored wiper motors range from $275 to $350 online, so I think this is fair. The cost will cover a Newport kit for my Buick. Willing to work on price. Video of motor working.

Just be weary of "what you pay for is what you get". Especially on Ebay. I found the parts for a 56 Century (same as Special) on the Metro website. It says it fits all models, but I would be a little weary since the doors are different. It's also double the price, so there may be a cause for concern with the Ebay price (defective unit maybe?)...

What are the major differences between a 55 and 56 compressor?

Rail inspection car...

How big are the sealed beams for a 36?

Purple is also my favorite color. The car is more magenta but whatever.

Now that's sexy.

Pretty interesting hubcap centers.

It's always a great feeling having rebuilt something yourself! I just noticed, looking back at your earlier images, that the armature looks exactly identical to the one used in the tri-five electric wiper motors. I grabbed one last week off Ebay for $75, the seller sold it with the lead wire cut off at the body so it needed to be taken apart and a new wire needed to be soldered in place, but the armature and internals look identical. When I did my power antenna, the armature had a fine thread on it, whereas these would be a more coarse thread. I wonder if they just used the same two armatures - fine and course - and just designed applications around them.

Finding new brushes and springs might be a bit of a challenge. I would definitely like to know where one might be able to get some.

Thanks for the write up Willis, meant to clarify later but just got off work... I guess you wouldn't have to worry about the vacuum booster if you had manual brakes.

Careful! While DOT5 brake fluid does indeed repell water, it does a really good job at trapping air and is thus harder to bleed. Also if DOT5 brake fluid has touched anything that has previously had DOT3 or 4 brake fluid in it, then seals will fail due to swelling. If you use DOT5, then you need to replace the wheel cylinders and the proportioning block if it has one, as well as the stop light switch and rubber hoses. Looks like you're well on your way to a full brake job, but be warned DOT5 is not to be mixed with DOT3 or 4 at any given time. The two types completely alien to each other and will lead to failure.

How long has the car been sitting before you started it up again? If it's top of engine, it could be coming from the lifter galley and a hydraulic lifter may not be pumping up. When was the last oil change? What kind of oil do you use? You could possibly pull the filter and check for metal shavings, worst case scenario the oil pan. Video just loaded for me, that doesn't sound like a lifter. A rod knock would be all the time, not at higher RPMs only. You should probably pull the valve covers and inspect your rocker arms and push rods.

It was a trick, you were lucky to stall.

Ben, I've been battling a noisy lifter for as long as the engine has been rebuilt. Just one! Recently it was too cold for an oil change so I took the car up to a Jiffy Lube with a new filter in hand. I've been feeding it only conventional, but they dumped synthetic in there and now the noise is gone. Just food for thought. Still looking forward to that video!

I second electrical cleaner. If there's some light rust, hit it with a scrubbing sponge, too.

I play pool on my phone once in a while...