Beemon

Is the motor casing pressed together or is there a screw holding them together? When I rebuilt my power antenna motor, it had a few screws on the top that allowed it to be opened. I pulled the armature out and lubed all contact points (bushings, worm gear, nylon rollers) and rubbed the armature with an abrasive scrub sponge. I just used WD-40 white lithium grease on the rubbing areas. The carbon brushes were worn but not worn too bad so I didn't do anything with them. After buttoning it back up and grounding it, the motor turned freely and came alive. Moisture really is the #1 enemy of just about anything. I'm sure the motors are fine, just dirty and stuck.

I wonder if there's an outfit out there that would be willing to retrofit new electronic analog gauges into old manual analog gauge clusters? That would be equally interesting, keep the old look with new technology like some EFI kits try to do. Or the Powermaster generator looking alternators, or Pertronix kits.

Double post here, but I found the part about custom gauges. Here's the dash gauges page. You just prepare the cluster for final assembly and then send it to them. The price for five is $1045, which is ok considering I had just my speedo repaired for $250. They even have service for the clock. It's $155, so it's comparable to a rebuild or a quartz conversion, and it will accurately keep time. Also for both you get a limited lifetime warranty. Might go pull that speedo cluster and clock out of the 56 in the junkyard... We got way off topic here lol, but the info may be helpful to others.

Dakota Digital was actually the company I was thinking of. If I recall correctly, they do custom gauges as well but a core is required. But something like the RPM gauge at the top for the speedo bar, and then maybe either something similar for the other gauges or just numbers. The last one is for a 58 Impala, and it's pretty close to the configuration of the 56 Buick. You would just have to make a custom display out of a real core, or build a mount that would bolt up the same. I really think a color coded LED bar for the different gauges would be spot on, where it's green/red just like the originals in just the right spot, or black/white like the Roadmaster (they're like this in my Century, optional? I know Specials are green/red). Either way, Oil and Temp would sweep from left to right, Ammeter would sweep both ways from the center and maybe have Fuel sweep left to right as well. Don't get me wrong, all my gauges work fine as they are, but the added benefit of a GPS speedo or one that can be trimmed, as well as electronic gauges rather than calibrating mechanical gauges has it's benefits.

I was thinking more like an LED display that illuminates down the bar the faster you go. Just like how it is now, but with a flat glass screen. Same thing for the other gauges, but then you'd only be able to see them with the key on. A pretty interesting concept, but then I would have to build it and program it because such things do not exist except maybe for the actual gauges. Also a lack of illumination control would be a bummer. That's why I think a 55 dash would be cool, because all the stuff is there for the aftermarket round gauges.

Considering the axial tilt of the earth always varies and that the projected magnetic north pole has shifted from Greenland to Siberia, North America is now further from the north pole than it has been. Plus it's also La Niña, so the jet stream has also shifted. I'm personally not complaining about lack of snow fall here.

Are there specific relays other than the switches that are needed for window operation?

Doesn't 54-56 Olds and Buick share a lot of the same sheet metal and window trim?

Admittedly I only asked about the WCFB lol. I already have two Jacks so I think I'm good on that. A mid 50s olds would be cool, but their speedo and gauges are far from normal just like the 56 so anyone looking to do that kind of swap is going to need to shell out some cash. That's why I like the 55 dash in there, because you can go to any company and get the exact same type of gauge setup that isn't mechanical and then just shim it. Electric speedo with a trim feature would be nice. Not having to worry about a temperature capillary tube... oil lines under the dash.

I was doing some late perusing on eBay tonight, looking for some Roadmaster bomber sights, and I found a 56 Buick that has a 55 dash. How common were these? Was it a late 55 production or something? Kind of interesting, because a 55 dash would be a lot easier to adopt aftermarket gauges to the dash, plus the added cutout just looks cool compared to how flat 56 is.

Up here, they're tax exempt. I dont think asking questions about other people's registration will fly up here either. When I was putting in for a lost title, even though they keep records dating back to the 30s at the state capitol, they said I wasn't allowed to request that type of information. It must have been nice in the days before computers because I'm sure they would have phoned wherever the file was and retrieved it without questions asked.

Never mind on the T, I thought it was in better condition, but the threads are destroyed. I did however make it from auto parts fittings. It was makeshift and ugly looking. I got my replacement off of a 55, but I think any 50s Nailhead will have this T fitting if they came with power brakes.

I have an extra one, but the thread section is broken off. It still screwed into the manifold fine before I found a replacement. I'll see if I can find it and take a photo. It's off a 56, but they should be the same I think.

I think First Born uses a paper element, not sure if it is the same air cleaner housing or not. When I was looking for one, I just measured the diameter of the old oil bath filter and then brought both it and the housing to my local napa. The hardest part might be finding a lid to go over the paper filter if you need one.

Looks like the pump shaft seals have already failed. I don't think you'd be hurting anything if you used a block off plate to delete the pump. I think it's a pretty common issue for the vacuum section to suck oil past the seal, but have not seen the seal break on the fuel section personally. In any case, if you wish to rebuild, kits are widely available.

Using old rubbers increase the risk of unwanted accidents...

55-57 interchanges with 54-56 and maybe later Buick Roadmaster and Super. If you can find a Roadmaster or Super wiper motor cam and base, you can swap it in to a Century or Special with little modification. Likewise, you can bolt the Chevy motor into the Special and Century base with light modification. Then you just need to find a non-Cam-o-Matic wiper control and swap it in so you don't have redundant wiper control. I've always wondered why Newport Engineering didn't make a bowden wire motor, it just makes sense considering all the cars those motors go in to are controlled with a bowden wire. The only issue with the Chevy motors is they're apparently rare and cores are expensive... it's almost $400 for a rebuilt motor, vs $100 for a rebuild of the vacuum motor or $120 for the Newport Engineering motor. The former is stock, but sucks in most situations; the latter rocks, but now you have an original switch that doesn't work and one you need to hide. Hey, maybe I can come up with a prototype in the lab at school and pitch it to them - a bolt on bowden control switch.

Small caps and black walls

John, if it's any consolation, I think black walls and poverty caps are pretty cool. But then again, that's all I can afford... lol

I think there's one in the second picture, blue on blue. I wish I lived closer to a place like this. I have a small backyard I visit often, all the big places are 5 hours out. Imagine all the gold one would find when they know what they're looking for.

I was under the impression that the double pumps were standard. I wouldn't be so quick to get rid of it, it pumps fuel on demand rather than a constant flow like an electric pump. Maybe have the electric pump in line to correct vapor lock or prime the float bowls? I can confirm that wipers stop on heavy acceleration even with the pump. I also have to reseal my wiper motor with grease every now and then with how much I use it in the Pacific NW. I've also had terrible luck with the vacuum pump sucking oil into the intake manifold, too. Not to mention the toll it puts on the vacuum system, which influences your engine's AFR. I think people don't complain because they don't use it constantly. It's a very inefficient system, and probably only used because of generator constraints and additional electric accessories.

Well I'd hope I wouldn't get into a roll over, or any collision for that matter. I don't race the car, but I guess you can never be too sure with Honda hot rods.

Not much left of that Century is there?

While yes, the main goal of swapping gears is to get rid of the noise, the other issue is that the case hardening on my original gears have been worn off. This means the metal is extremely brittle and can blow at any time. Anything is an upgrade, sound or not, though I hope it's not noisy. I've also looked into having my own guts cut for a pretty penny, but for the same price you can do a driveline swap and gain other added benefits of upgrading, such as a more efficient transmission and a rear end that's new and not "lightly used." John, I think I'm still a few years away from that milestone.

Here's the thread: Here's the website: https://www.electric-life.com/ More specifically; front - rear Thank Willie for the site, not me! The kits come with the regulators and motors already attached.