Beemon

I know kits exist. They're bolt in just like the originals for 375 a pair. I found the link from a seven year old thread, Willie actually shared the link. I'm at work right now but can get it for you when I'm off. The switches can be sourced from Fusick. The mechanisms for the windows interchange between Buick and Olds. Maybe Pontiac?

The single action pump was on heavy duty Chevy trucks only and I think they're rare. Russ Martin might have one, but it will still need a rebuild. You can still buy the rebuild kits from CARS, that's going to be your only cheap option. Alternatively, you could take a 57+ timing cover and install it on your 56 322 and retain your stock water pump. The only difference is that you can now use the made NEW 364-401-425 single action fuel pump that is only $4 to replace. You have to factor in the cost of gaskets and such, but would probably be the best for what you hope to accomplish. Probably the same price if you consider buying the $90 rebuild kit. That's what I plan to do when I replace my timing chain eventually. I plan on doing electric wipers down the road and just get rid of the entire vacuum wiring all together (save washer jar, power brakes). Ideally would use the new TA performance timing cover with a rebuilt 57 Chev wiper motor but money is everything... Good luck!

My grandfather installed seat belts in my Buick back in the day - they're original Boeing seat belts and when you pull the flap up, it has the old 50s or 60s B on it. When I have people in the car, such as giving people rides home after work or even getting a bite with a bud during lunch break at school, I'm often asked why I don't wear it. The truth is, you're going to die no matter what happens in any type of collision in one of these old cars unless it's from the passenger side or rear. In any case, lap belts won't help you from hitting the steering wheel or side window. Just an unfortunate realization compared to modern safety requirements: airbags, over the shoulder restraints, crumple zones. Drive carefully! We probably have more to worry about other idiots on the road than ourselves anyways.

When you go back to the carb ignition switch, make sure to shim it correctly for starter timing. The trick is to open the carb without putting too much foot into the secondaries or pulling too much air to disrupt the choke piston. The carb ignition switch really doesn't do any favors for the car in 26 degree weather, either. Also that attachment wire on the antenna lead is actually a ground for the antenna. Kind of an interesting place for it. Good luck on finding a working power antenna. Did your car originally come with one? It's probably gunked up and just needs some cleaning. I had taken mine apart, cleaned up the armature really good with a scotchbrite pad and then lubed the worm gear and teeth so everything moved freely and it worked just like new.

The vent window is perfect where it sits front to back. It's in and out that's the issue. After playing with it for about 2.5 hours today after getting home from work, it is marginally better but still way off IMO. I would like to see a perfectly aligned 54-56 vent window for reference, both in and out. I think that's the best I'll get it before body mods are made to the mounting. Willie supplied me with some info that was of great help. Unfortunately, all adjustments to bring the vent closer to the center of the car are maxed out, which will require shimming. I was about to remove the vent window again when it started snowing... no wonder I couldn't feel my fingertips lol. Basically there are two in-out adjustments: one at the base of the track at the bottom of the door, and two - at the base of the vent window chrome behind the top door trim. The adjuster at the base of the chrome was already in as far as it could go. I think I can pull the vent in by putting a fender washer behind the top mounting nut. Up and down adjustment was next to nothing, and I set the rotation by matching it to the window frame.

The dynamics of this thread are great. A few good images and a few good laughs don't have time to fester and get out of hand because a family photo gets shared next.

There is a pencil sized gap on both doors where the vent window frame is supposed to seal to the car A pillar. I was messing about with a colleague on campus and when he asked for a pencil to borrow, I stuffed it through the driver side gap no problem.... lol

Thanks for the page, dei! I didn't know if shims would be involved or not in moving it, but if it's an adjustment screw like the window, then I think I might be making a mountain out of a mole hill with this one. I thought it was funny, because I don't remember seeing any shims in there.

No I do not. I didn't even think about that. Looks like I'll need to track one down. Doesn't look like Hometown Buick has that one online.

I've been ignoring this issue for a while now but it's cold out and there's a draft and a really annoying whistling noise. Since I plan to have the car painted mid February (the company sure does like to take their time printing W2's), I'm wanting to get this taken care of now. Did cars come from the factory like this? Or is this maybe the case of sagging doors? Both? I know there's a window alignment adjuster because I used it when I installed the passenger window. Also I know it doesn't look like it, but the passenger side (third picture) is also offset. Thanks for any help!

Have you tried looking at your camera settings on your phone to see if they're saving as multimedia images?

All thread... of course! Thanks for the clarifications! I want to do AC at some point; grandpa doesn't like cruising with wing windows anymore even though he said it didn't bother him when he drove from Michigan over to here in 58. Lol. Looking forward to your final product!

If you don't plug it with something, consider it a 3rd exhaust vent. I think it's a casting access hole to mold the intake heating portion. On the 322 intakes, there is a gasket and two screws. This looks like a glued or press fit job? Likewise, you could try plugging the heat track with the intake gasket and that would prevent warming on the intake manifold, though I'm not sure the repercussions that would cause.

It's been a little cold up here in Seattle, to say the least. (this photo is old, I forgot this thread existed! lol)

Sometimes that's not an option.

Pretty nifty compressor mount. What did you use as the core? Also I really like those green belts, just gives it an added touch. I also like how you mounted your alternator. Did you use a 9" thru bolt? I have thought about doing that but have been unable to find a long enough bolt.

What compelled you to go with a Jag rear? Would never have thought independent rear end. What years?

Lol I wonder how long it took them to figure out they put the front of the snorkel on upside down...

(Shameless self plug, I'm sorry!)

You can link photos from outside sources. All my photos posted are from Facebook, unless uploaded from my PC (rarely). Just go to insert other media in the bottom right and paste the image URL.

Already following you on ebay boss. You could still sell here, I'm sure we'll all take your word for it.

forgive me if I'm wrong, but I think that part is called the wind lace. This is very helpful, because I'll have to pull these off soon to have my door jams painted.

Happy New Years! Does anyone have any headache tips? I work at 9 am the following. Lol

The difference is that a light bulb is a resistor and an LED is a diode. The rheostat limits current, thus dimming the resistive bulb - the LED bulbs are solid state diodes and can take varying amounts of current. I have a tach mounted to my steering column and the LED is just an on-off operation. It cuts off at about half way in the rheostat with no dimming. There are different types of LEDS made for that bulb socket with varying lumens. A single diode light would probably be sufficient.

You could try and find a lawn mower repair man. Lawn mowers to an extent use the same type of cables.