Beemon

Here is that ad. It's been flagged, so I'll be watching for it to come up so I can grab the screenshot and contact info. I'm not sure if this is your man's stuff, but it popped up in the last few days.

That meet was back in February but the annual 4x4 swap meet is this weekend. The reason I'm asking is because the other day there was an ad for a box of misc gauges for marine and auto use of an old vintage. I can't find it now, but I'm also searching on my phone.

The Buick in the yard has a 4 bbl v8 so I'm assuming it's a Roadmaster. It's at least a series 50. So you don't need the wiper motor transmission, just the individual wiper arm transmission.

You can change springs with a donor or buy the drag link repair kit from vendors.

Was he ripped off today?

The power steering link uses a tighter spring on the pitman arm, so using the loose spring for power steering would give additional play. The loose spring for manual steering is there to give you the extra arm strength to pull the steering wheel (aka builds momentum).

Please document your rebuild progress, there isn't a thread for one yet and id be very interested in the outcome.

Did he have an ad listing on Craigslist a few days ago for assorted vintage gauges?

Where in Kent did this happen? That's horrible, I'll keep an eye out in the antique stores and Craigslist/offer up.

The drag ling between manual and power steering are indeed different.

Saturday was my grandmother's birthday, so I took the car out to visit her. She supposedly drove it off the assembly line in Flint, Michigan. The car was ordered from the Kessler dealership in Detroit, and she went to go pick it up while my grandpa as on base. The odd thing is that it came with aftermarket mirrors, which I suppose were an afterthought by my grandfather. They later took the car and drove out west where they settled in 1958 and started their family. This is the first time I've driven the car out. Never thought about it before until now, so I made sure to thank her for not getting rid of it after all those years.

I don't know, the comma is strategically placed...

You might want to check and see if the drag link is different between power steering and manual steering. I am pretty sure they are, but I don't recall what was different. Everything else should be the same.

About how many turns on the adjustment screws do you go in? I've never gotten throttle response like that with either of my two 4GCs, though hopefully to be cured here pretty soon with my own WCFB. Your videos on YouTube have always been an inspiration to me, I just wish I had found them before I had someone else rebuild my engine.

Driving with the pump off is worse than manual steering and can cause damage to the steering gear, or at least the rag coupling. What part is leaking, pump or box?

Tom, the yard is only open on Saturdays but I'll see if I can make an appointment tomorrow. I will take pictures if I can get out there and let you know condition and whether or not you'd like to purchase. I'm assuming you're talking about the wiper motor transmission that has two wires going to each wiper arm? Not the actual wiper motor itself, correct?

You could always try CarToys, or similar. The antenna cable is just a regular Motorola axial cable. Not sure about the part that screws in to the antenna mast, but anything can be made to work with the right kind of will power.

There is a 53 Buick at the yard I go to, I missed it last week but if I see it this week I can let you know. Would have to buy the whole unit, and I'm not sure how much it will cost. Last time I was there, I pulled two dual exhaust manifolds off a 56 Buick for $150 total, a distributor for $20, a power steering pump for $40 and a starter for $30. Pretty reasonable guy, can't see it being more than $30.

The smaller resistor is for the ignition system, where it reduces voltage across the points.

The whole torque tube should be completely dry. That's why there's usually not a gasket on the flanges.

That's a lot of money

There isn't a deflection reading for the power steering. I'm always tried my best to pull it tight in one hand and tighten with the other. Usually results in about the same belt deflection, with no issue.

It definitely isn't easy in a gravel driveway.

Looks like a pretty interesting oil filter mounted to the trans. I wonder how many amps that generator puts out? Always wondered what it would be like to take these oversize parts and try and put them into a regular sized car.

The shop manual goes into detail with belt tightness. Belt tightness should be 3/8", 1/2" for AC cars. If your generator pulley is tight, then you might need a new pulley. Likewise, make sure water pump and crank pulley are tight. If using power steering, then the pulley channel closest to the engine is for the generator. Also check to make sure the generator is mounted correctly with both legs on the outside of the bracket and the adjusting arm on the backside of the top leg.