Beemon

Disc brakes need much more pressure to stop the car because it's a clamp, and not a self energizing radial brake like a drum. Drums apply pressure to the outer most part, obviously, of the drum, while caliper pads apply pressure at different radii. It just needs the added oomph of power brakes to really clamp down hard. Also you're going with discs now, Matt? My only advice is stick with the original power brake cylinder and don't try to upgrade it. I've been down that road and nothing works for the under dash units. The space is too tight, the bore is not right and the pedal ratio is too small. I did this when I first started my Buick, and have found that when properly set up, drums and original equipment works best.

Looks like a bath tub

I went over Snoqualmie Pass and survived Highway 26, where the entire time I thought I had a loose spindle nut and the front wheels were going to fall off. It put squeaks in places I didn't think possible and I think I lost a few thousandths off my front teeth chattering all the way. The one thing that didn't fail was the fuel filter (and the spindle nuts... lol). Just don't reuse the same rubber gasket and everything should be fine. My filter had the original stone element and I quickly removed it and other archaic parts to the filter, cleaned it up good, and haven't had an issue with mine since.

Washington is pretty eco friendly. There's only two stations I know of around here - one is the 104 octane race fuel and the other is an old Cenex gas station out in Black Diamond, an old coal mining city in the middle of nowhere. One is within 10 minutes of me and the other is quite a jog... the good one is the jog. I've found that my engine runs best on 89 E10, rather than 91 E10. Maybe with the current administration, real fuels might make a come back? Who knows.

And the port holes are gone again...

I put one of those on my 56. They just look cool, aren't the cheap plastic filter, beats the brass pancake filter, and the replacement filter is readily over the counter!

Greg, without looking, if I recall correctly they hug the oil pan.

Get someone in the car to put the pedal to the metal and then dial in the adjuster that is at the carb throttle linkage while the carb throttle arm is pulled to WOT. If you set it loose, then you'll never open the secondaries at full throttle, so it's better to set it a little tighter, that way you don't mash it to the floor to get the secondaries to open up.

Didn't know there were different sizes in pedals, all the vendors sell a one size fits all. For what it's worth, your bellows is probably tearing because you have it go through the firewall. It's only supposed to go through the carpet. Just went out to the car to check for you, and your setup is correct: ball mounts below the plate, throttle rod hooks right with cotter key on the right side.

54-55 guys get all the fun on these forums. I'd be lucky if I came across standard transmission parts for a 56 and had the cash to grab it, too.

Model number 2347S, I think it's the only one with the heat track at the base. Also updated the title, too. Greg, if you have one, I would be very appreciative. I've had some offers fall through in the last month or two because it was either the wrong carb or never heard back from them.

All I know is that I got 18 MPG under consistent fill ups on the way there and 14 MPG consistently on the way back without the PCV. I don't know what else to tell you guys with my oiling problems thus far. I didn't rebuild my engine, someone else did and obviously botched it. There's a virgin 56 322 complete in Vancouver, BC that I've been eyeing up. But this car is my only means of transport now and the PCV system has cured the problem interim until I can get into the road draft tube filter.

Still looking for a factory correct WCFB, in any restore-able condition.

While most likely the cause, I'd also like to think that it has something to do with all the venting of negative pressure in the engine block and putting less strain on the piston rings. Since the PCV valve was installed, I haven't seen oil pushed past the distributor o-ring.

If the power piston doesn't come back up under it's own power, that's usually an indication it's gone dry. Just like all good things, you just need to wet and and then it'll be able to slip right in. Plus it doesn't hurt to oil it every once in a while, whether it is working properly or not.

For Conventional, Castrol 80W-90 is the best off the shelf. For Synthetic, Mobil1 80W-90 is the best. I used Synthetic when I swapped rears and haven't had a leak yet. Just make sure to use some black RTV on the gasket flanges when you dig into it. Are you leaking from the axle flange or the differential gasket?

Ken, didn't see your thread pop up within the search, would have probably saved me some headache! About my engine: rebuilt two years ago by a rebuilder who claimed to have done Nailheads before, but ended up being very knowledgeable in Chevy engines. Simply put, a lot of things are amiss and I find myself with a great displeasure of dismantling my engine more and more. Unplugging the road draft tube is one of those things on my bucket list. Right now unplugging it isn't much of a concern because I have a breather in one cover and the PCV in the other. The issue right now is that it's been sucking a little bit of oil. There's a yard near me with some mid 60s Rivieras, so my plan is to eventually go out there and pull the valve covers/rockers and oil baffle and just swap them on. I just got back from a large road trip and got 18 MPG with the PCV hooked up and 14 MPG without it.So there is definitely an issue with breathing in my engine, the stars just haven't aligned for me to tackle it.

I've used both, without issue. You just take the breather off the side and wet the leather cup. Don't over do it, just get an oiling can and shoot a few squirts on the leather.

Mud, I'm really glad you're doing this. A few months back I had asked Willie about a front end alignment but I just never had gotten around to doing it. Seeing the video has made me understand just exactly what is going on. Always enjoy your videos!

Doug, he'll always be there in spirit, right in the passenger seat. May he rest in peace.

I always thought it was kind of interesting when people refer to engines breathing. I just finished a numerical methods class where I modeled the primary bores of a Rochester 4GC on a 1956 322, using internal venturi volumes, cubic inch displacement, bore and stroke. The ability for the engine to breath is based solely on the pumping action of the piston on the intake stroke. The only thing the intake valve influences is intake turbulence and intake velocity. The engine will only pump what it needs based off CID, and the smaller valves will actually increase the volumetric flow rate due to Bernoulli's Equation, where the change in cross sectional area increases flow velocity if density and pressure are kept constant. Nailheads in essence, flow very well due to higher intake velocities, they just don't flow like Chevies.

I thought I had one, until I started restoring my Buick.

Manual shift can be power steering but must have manual brakes to clear the clutch linkage.

Did you kiss her goodbye before you left? But seriously, I hope you go after that tire shop.

When I replaced the rubber disk in my rag coupler last spring, the pins were screwed in. A press might destroy the coupler. Heat treatment, soaking in oils and getting a good grip on it may be the best way to go on this.