Beemon

My concern is correct spring placement because it looks like the spring fell out of place.

So I need a little help with the choke spring. In the photos, it doesn't look right. With the choke on, the long ear of the spring is at the bottom and the other side is on the leg in the middle of the rod. Is this correct? This is how the carb came to me.

Will the thicker plate interfere with air cleaner clearance and front mounting bracket? Also here's the carb. I started brushing it out will it soaked in Dawn detergent and hot water. The water got cold, so I pulled it out. I was told it came off a late 55, but it has the correct service tag. Some of the linkage is rusted, too. I don't have a shop, as some of you know, so for time being I'll just be disassembling the big parts and getting them cleaned up as good as possible and then reassembling with new stuff. The restoration of the carb can wait. I was surprised, that under the dirt I managed to get off the bowls, that the plating still had the green/gold sheen to it. Also looks like the baffle wasn't present when the carb was on the car. I can scrape off whatever this stuff is, oxidized aluminum? When I pulled the dual quad intake off last year and put the stock one back on, I drilled and tapped the intake heat track with all thread plugs since I was told the heat track was irrelevant with modern fuels. Because there was no exhaust burn on the 4GCs, I think it's safe to say I can run the WCFB without the metal plate. Also, does anyone have any tips for unsticking the secondary butterflies? I think the rusty throttle arms will go nicely with my rusty power steering pump.

Greg, would love to see your oil filter adapter!

I live in Seattle and it's the only car I own

What if I've already blocked off the heat track ports? Do I still need it or will it be okay?

Finally secured the correct WCFB model 2347S and am just starting the clean up process. The first difference I noticed between the WCFB and the 4GC is that the base of the carb doesn't have the cut out for the heat track. It's just flat. I'm going to be picking up a kit here pretty soon, but I've also seen that there needs to be some type of steel plate underneath the carb. There is no mention of this plate in the shop manual, and my 4GC didn't have the plate either. Also, isn't the WCFB base cast iron and not aluminum? Is this plate necessary? Thanks in advance to replies. I'm pretty excited to get this one going. It's much more complex than the 4GC, which means it'll be much more fun.

The difference between AFB and WCFB choke springs is that WCFB is backwards from the AFB. I just recieved my correct WCFB in the mail, so I've been doing a tone of research. For $10, pull the spring off the choke housing and flip it over. I wish I had done mine when it was out of the car, but the way it broke it looked like it was supposed to be that way, and I've regretted it since. You might be able to get at the manifold with a dremel tool if it's attached to the car. I haven't had any luck with mine and am in no rush to pull the manifolds off. An electric choke has always worked fine for me.

Matt, people may disagree with me, but a 2 minute Edelbrock electric choke will solve your problem. If it's missing at the carb, it's probably broken off the manifold and all I can say is good luck getting the broken part out. You can probably find the right machine screw and flat piece at the hardware store. Just be weary, there may be a reason why the horn is disconnected.

Check the ground to the sending unit. You may have to drop the tank and hope it's the sending unit.

That's probably the issue. Trying to give you the "restoration" rate when a core is a core is a core.

About 450 is what I paid for mine and I live in the most expensive state second to California. Are you going two core or three core?

$700 seems like a bit much. Maybe de-rust it and dab some solder on it?

The kind of trap that shows up 9 months later?

The Nailhead is considered the Nailhead, an immaculate engine of it's own class and power. Small block and big block are words thrown around by Chevy guys to get their testosterone up because they're ignorant. I know because that's my father. "Drop a 350 in there and call it good..."

A lot of these hot rod gals are a bit too much. I mean, did women really look like that back then? I feel it was more toned down.

Willis, Cam-O-Matic wiper transmissions sweep the entire window vs the stock wiper system. That's how it incorporates the 2-speed function. Fast is short sweep and slow is the wide sweep. With the electric conversion, it uses the wide sweep at full speed and it slaps on both sides. When Newport made the wiper motor specifications, they based it off of a stock system, which is shared between all GM cars that didn't have Cam-O-Matic wipers. Their Special and Roadmaster motor has a different sweep than the Special and Century motor because those cars if I recall correctly came stock with Cam-O-Matic There is nothing wrong with my vacuum wiper, it was reconditioned last year. The system itself is very inefficient. I'm now thinking it would probably be best to invest into some type of large reservoir with a check valve and run the vacuum through it so it has reserve for those tough, intense moments. My other idea was find a 58 Compressor/Power Steering pump that came on GM cars with the air bag suspension Olds and Buicks. A compressor wired backwards becomes a vacuum pump. OR, find a diesel vacuum pump that runs off the engine... OR ideally make my own with the machine shop at school, using hardware store pulleys on a machined shaft and a cylindrical housing with a diaphragm and mounted underneath the power steering pump... maybe I'll start writing up some schematics? Might be fun. Also I want to note, that I have no problem at all keeping up with modern traffic. It's usually the slowing down part, not due to bad brakes or anything, but the added distance to overcome the momentum of a 2 ton vehicle. My new job goes down a really steep incline and without feathering the brakes, it comes to a complete stop at the bottom if I ride the shoes all the way down. There's a pretty large rice rocket community here in town, and I can safely say I've dusted a few in D, not L, on occasion.

Well that part was supposed to be done for me....

There's a set at the yard where I got the switch, but it's just a matter of finding time to dismantle the entire dash. And then, I'm getting back into the zone where I'm changing too much. I wish this stuff were more simple, but it seems any time I try anything out I'm always the bad egg.

That's what I described doing in the email. It went from slapping the center to slapping both sides.

The wiper blades slap the stainless trim and no amount of adjusting can fix it.

Don't worry Chris, my hands always wander.

Put a tarp over the engine bay and start scraping.

Wanted to update this thread on my progress: All sales are final, and I have to pay to send it back and bring it home Aside from this, the system works extremely well. I had to adapt the 56 Wiper button and switch to the more modern, round with a notch style switch they provided. What I had done was found a small piece of aluminum tubing that was the perfect ID for the new switch and the OD was the same as the old switch. It was a little trial and error at the hardware store to get right. Once the correct size was picked out, I flattened the end of it just slightly to oblong it. This way, it fit snug in the 56 switch part, and the oblong part was a compression fit over the slotted shaft of the new switch. There is enough friction between all three parts for them to rotate the switch freely for both speeds and back to off. Because it was full electric, I needed to change out the washer jar pump. To get around trying to come up with some crazy contraption, I sourced a Packard/Cadillac/Lincoln/Merc washer pump that uses an electric solenoid to cut off engine vacuum. The only downside is that there is no coordinator, so the wipers need to be turned on when you squirt the windshield. Besides the wiper slap, my only gripe right now is the mess at the resistor. I'm wanting to move all that stuff behind the firewall, into a junction block type deal that hooks into the powered ignition switch instead, or at least splice into the ignition lead line somewhere. It won't make much of a difference right now, because it's raining and I'm going back to vacuum wipers due to obvious reasons. This totally kills the whole replace timing cover with later Nailhead, modern fuel pump without vacuum pump, etc. thing that I wanted to do with the car. Still do-able, but still waiting to hear back from Newport on how much the fix will cost me. I am fairly certain it is because my grandfather ordered the car with Cam-O-Matic wipers, which sweep further than standard wipers.

I think I get it, two sticks up front and she gets confused...