Beemon

Idk maybe there's something wrong with my engine, but I can turn it with everything in.

I disagree, I can turn my engine with a normal 10" long socket wrench. If you can't turn it with a 10" socket wrench, something is obviously wrong.

Maybe try calling outside your area to find places that won't charge an arm and a leg for a recore, and then cut the losses with some $20 worth of gas? Or maybe send it to someone in the club that can take it to a shop? Just options I suppose. Regrettably I had dropped a socket into the fan shroud a while back and didn't realize until it hit the fan and punctured the radiator. The solder job has been holding since last June. No more than 30 seconds, just heat up the gun, stick it over the puncture with solder and then you're done. I'm pretty sure it's a special kind of solder, though. I took it to the rad shop for the fix, and I was $45 out of pocket for it. Couldn't believe it was just a butane torch and solder... Copper radiators are always brittle, that's why they really can't take no more than 7 psi. Aluminum is weaker, but the construction makes them stronger, hence the usual 14 psi caps.

Greg, thanks for the info! I guess I'll be searching for a 59-60 Buick to grab the filter housing from. The original filter housing doesn't have a drain back valve like the modern filters do, so I'm sure you'll have immediate oil pressure on start-up with that new filter vs. retaining the old canister style. Saw this on Ebay and thought it would be interesting, but I would hate to go untighten the filter and the adapter comes with it.

Where is it leaking, do you know? You can buy various sized rubber plugs to stick in the holes, then submerge in a pool of water and hit it with compressed air to see where it's coming out of. Just make sure it's like 7psi. Then bust out your soldering gun and patch it up.

Buickman, my car has only ever seen ethanol fuel and I have never had issue with using the original float setting. What I've found out is that the Ethanol will creep up the sides of the bowl, for whatever reason, and just wick through the gasket. That, and also sink lead plugs on 4GCs....

Is there no other radiator shop in the area? I really think they're charging you because it's for a 54 Buick. I mean for that price, you might as well buy one new. Where's it leaking from? The picture you shared looks like the overflow tube is broken, and nothing else? or is it leaking from the core?

The tri five mirrors don't look too bad. My car came with non-factory mirrors and one was broke. The bolt hole pattern was the same as the tri five Chevy and they don't look out of place. Except mine are on the doors... I think it was like a going cheap thing back then? Buy the car without the mirrors then have the dealership install some off the shelf brand?

So for some reason, the leather cup shrank and hardened. I'm pretty sure it's because I soaked it in carb cleaner... I know! I know... Anyways, I was trying to avoid using this one from the kit because it's a tad longer, but I don't think it should matter since how far it's being pumped is based off the accelerator linkage. I swapped springs and installed it with the carb on the car (rubber hose really makes it easy to remove the air horn without getting gas everywhere). I have a healthy shot now, took the car to McDonald's for breakfast and it had the oomph I was missing.

That should be it, the leather will wick. Just keep checking it and lubing it until the leather cup is not soaked, but not dry. It takes it a while to go all the way around if it's been sitting as I've found out.

Greg, sorry for confusion, but what adapter did you use for the 59-60 Buick spin on filter?

Dan, if it's just the float or needle and seat, you can probably do that yourself by taking the top off the carb and checking float drop, rest and needle and seat. If your mechanic didn't get it right the first time, I doubt he will the second time.

You could always try spray foam. If you don't like it, just chisel it off. I think the factory used some type of tar/undercoating spray at the Firewall holes.

I work nights 40 hours a week with some mandatory overtime. Where I was going to do it, that avenue came and went, so now I have to either clean the garage out (not likely, it's a huge mess and about 5% of it is my stuff - last time I dug into it my mother almost took my life), or find somewhere else to do it. I don't have any friends to put up a wayward Buick and don't have the cash to front for storage. I still have to order a kit, too, but I need storage first.

Greg, been curious about Waldron's ever since my dad talked me into Magnaflows. Let us know how it goes.

Gotta keep that old Buick's teeth white!

Ben, a smaller hole would increase pressure, not decrease it. Pressure is force/area, so if the force of the oil is constant, as supplied by the pump, and neglecting surface tension in the oil galleys, then reducing the cross sectional area of the galley will increase the pressure.

Could be a bad ground to the switch? If it's not tight against the dash, it could cause issues. Mine is like that, because I've been lazy and haven't bought the correct trim screws to tighten it down.

I don't know, I would drive it as is. I would just fix the wheel base and then have fun. Some years ago my dad and I went fishing on the east side of Washington, and there's a dune course over there. Two guys lifted 1970s Corvettes like this and were just tearing it up in a 4WD hot rod.

Probably best to get the radiator from the shop now before they start adding service $$$.

It's a 53. It matches the lighter my grandfather kept from the one he rolled in 56.

No one on these boards have ever claimed to be an expert. They've been called experts, but I'm pretty sure everyone has been humble. Which is why I always come here first.

I fortunately have another vehicle to drive for a bit during this period. I just don't like to drive it because it's held over my head. I think I'll keep the engine I have and go from there. The full gasket kit is not expensive and will be a good place to start. I'll probably start into disassembly later this week if everything goes well. I'm still going to do it myself, I'm done consulting experts for a while.

No one said Roadmaster, but I get your point. Either way, the engine is coming out.

John, if you were to bet money, do you think it's the accelerator pump or the check ball under the top hat? The pump shot was there after rebuild and now it's gone.