MikeC5

Good to know. I'm glad it was easy. Was the body on the chassis? It sounds like it could be done with just removing the driveshaft.

I've not done this but am curious if you have the trans installed or removed? Either way I would try to wedge a piece of wood in there between the case and gears to stop the gears from turning. I've done that when tearing down/rebuilding engines and want to keep the crankshaft from turning.

When you say re-wrap the field coils, do you mean re-wind them with new wire? I have an SG with a field coil problem but haven't had any luck finding someone willing to re-wind them. I have a spare that I can practice on but getting those pole screws out will take an effort similar to yours. How hard would it be to rewind them, assuming you can buy the correct gage/insulated wire?

While it's true that Studebaker was in (I'm guessing) its most profitable era in its history right after WWII (GM wasn't hurting either), I still find it very hard to imaging that the engineering power-house that was GM of the early 50s would turn to Studebaker for a V-8 design. If he doesn't buy that, I would say from pure GM-hubris point of view there is just no way. It's one thing to emulate/steal ideas from other GM divisions but to buy the whole design from Studebaker or any other competitor? Seems preposterous to me....

Without even photos to go by, there's really no telling. It could be a decent amature restoration (best case) or something cobbled just to make it run. Model T prices vary widely based on condition (of course) but also by year. Early T, 09 - 12 are relatively expensive, 13 - 16 generally somewhat less so and once Ford got rid of all the brass 17 - 27 (and far more made), prices drop further. My guess is that a '21 Stude touring car would tend to be priced closer to Model T of the later era assuming similar condition. I didn't research this so I could very well be wrong but I think the T has a broader market because just about any part you might need is readily available. Can't say that for the Stude and I'm sure that limits the potential market for it.

I could maybe see spending $7 - $10 but $25? Naaa.

I imagine the market s small because a lot of auto enthusiasts who might consider such a purchase are scared off by not having a robust parts supply network like Ford Model T and A. I know a couple of folks who fall in that category who've ended up with one or the other; just a pet theory of mine.

Great! I'm glad it was simple and cheap!

Well I adjusted it so that there is maybe 1/2 inch play in either direction (wheels off ground). I'm trying John Deere Corn Head Grease in there which is a semi-liquid grease that goes to all liquid with elevated temperature.

You'll have to drain it to get a good look at the countershaft (the one below the shaft you see on top. My guess is that either the shift fork was broken or not engaged with 2nd sliding gear or countershaft 2nd gear is either missing teeth or the woodruff key has sheared. I labeled the gears and forks in this cross section. Also, the photo shows the gears in question (but the countershaft should be flipped 180 degrees).

22T, rotating the sector gear would require removing the steering box from the car (I'm pretty sure it would bump into the engine block before it came all the way out). But remaol isn't all that difficult. Once you get it out of there, it is quite simple to disassemble and rotate the gear. The only hard part was cleaning up the gear enough so a mark with its original position would not wipe off (it did wipe off, which is why I had to do it a 2nd time - see link below). http://forums.aaca.org/topic/188689-25-steering-gearbox-teardown/?hl=%2Bsteering+%2Bgearbox

I would like to get rid of the play in my steering (about 1" left/right at steering wheel OD) which from careful observation, appears largely due to the steering box. The MIM mentions adjusting the worm-sector wheel mesh but is silent on what is a 'good' adjustment. Any tips/advice on getting this set correctly? Is it possible to eliminate the free play?

I won't tell...

It is quite nice looking. I'd say do the interior and top how you like and drive it as-is.

Welcome to the DB forum. As you found, there is no drain plug. You have to unbolt the fitting for the oil pump feed tube from the pan (2 bolts). If you remove the pump feed tube and pull the fitting off the pan you should also find an oil strainer screen that is held by those same two bolts. Pretty easy.

Thanks 22T, Since I'll be painting metal I'll have to see if it translates into an automotive paint or compare with Studebaker Admiral Blue.

Nice work on the bracket.

Here's everything I know about them... http://forums.aaca.org/topic/199307-engine-splash-shields/?hl=shields

I believe the thrust surface is part of the entire babbited area on on the insert. If so, I would ask how does he plan to just pour a new thrust face only and expect it to bond properly to the original insert/babbit surface. If he pours the whole insert than you would need to get it line bored and aligned with the end bearings. Maybe I'm missing something...

Interesting. I didn't know that.

That's hard to believe but remember what P.T. Barnum said....

I forgot about this video made by this guy who works at a Ford Model A restoration place. He appears to know exactly what he's doing with the '25 DB engine. Although the video is a bit exhausting to watch (you'll see what I mean), if you skip ahead to 4:35 - 7:00 he shows re-babbiting the main bearing inserts. Skip to 7:20 - 8:50 and he's line boring the mains. It appears that he bores each main to fit each specific crankshaft journal diameter (assuming they vary slightly). The rest of the video shows re-doing the rods and reassembling. He also has a similarly detailed video of rebuilding the transmission and rear end and running the engine for first time, plus reassembling the car, etc. Good stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cy45P8Fw1QQ

I'm pretty sure since they are still poured babbit it won't be that easy. I believe it is still necessary to have to assemble the bearings into the block and line bore to final diameter. I hope I'm wrong about that... Maybe a shop could bore based on crank journal measurements you supply but I don't see how they could verify they'd line up with each other when installed.

Ha ha! Good fun!

That does seem strange AD. It almost sounds as if you need a bracket to fit a U.S. bodied car where the hole is well above the top edge of the wheel carrier disc. I can get a measurement of this distance if you like. Could there have been a patch repair done at some point where the hole location was moved?