MikeC5

They bolt up with the oil pan bolts on engine side on my '25. I always thought that 'Floating Power' was a great ad slogan.

I can't be sure this is the original but here's a photo showing my timing gear. No holes, unfortunately.

I installed them on mine and so far, so good.

I know Restoration Supply Co. sells clevises (clevi ?). They call them yoke ends.

That desk is a knockout for sure. And all the better since it was from trees on your land.

Very nice looking car! Looks like original leather on the seats.

Wow that is quite a hoard! I didn't see any in your photos but I'm looking for a set of top irons for a '25 touring car. If you think you have them I can send some photos/diagrams to check dimensions.

Nice stuff! How will you shape the contours? I'll eventually have to make the wood pieces that go along the rear top rail of the touring car so any photos, tips, etc. are welcomed.

Thanks, I did some searching and found KCL had answered this question but on the Dodge Trucks forum... Here is a link to his answer. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/255556-replacing-condenser-and-cutout-with-modern-equivalents/?hl=capacitor I wasn't sure about the cap he recommended in a different thread and I wasn't positive about the value in uf.

DodgeKCL, Off topic but I'm hoping you can help with this. I saw your recent post in the General forum regarding the use of a high-reliability film cap instead of a conventional condenser for the points. I tried searching where I might buy one of these (B32231 022M630) but have not been able to find an exact match. If I understand correctly, the B32231 is the type of capacitor and the value is 0.22 uF, 630 V ? I'm not sure if I'm reading the values correctly. Also, if you do know of a vendor who has this I would much appreciate the link. Thanks, Mike

I didn't think dropping the pan was all that arduous. Remove the oil pump, the splash shields and unbolt the pan. No suspension pieces or cross member to worry about... The oil float is a little fiddly when re-assembling.

The timing light is a good one. I'll have to remember that.

I agree with Bill that it most likely valve train related. Maybe even timing gears? Mine were making a noticeable clattering sound due to what appeared to be excess backlash. I was able to adjust the gear spacing (water pump drive to cam gear) by leaving out the gasket and using gasket maker on the pump housing to block. I hope you don't have to pull the engine since it looks to be quite a job. Pistons, cam, valves, valve guides can be services in-situ so I would think pulling the engine is a last resort (especially if bottom end is not suspect).

My '25 Dodge Brothers touring car spare tire carrier has a provision for a padlock to deter theft. I'd like to buy a period lock but am not having much luck in dating the various antique locks I've found for sale. Any locksmiths out there that can help me out with a Yale or other common brand model number to look for?

My '25, which I'm sure is pre-C, does have them. Unless someone removed them at some point, I think all babbit bearing engines had them from the factory.

With a bit of filing and finesse I'll bet you could braze/silver solder a fitting inside the grease cup and then cover it with the cap to keep the original look.

Yes there is a stout spring inside the bell housing.

Or just disconnect cables from battery. I have run into ground loop issues when trying to measure very low amperage currents (manifested as noise). Could a ground loop via frame to floor contact drain significant current from charging the battery? It would be easier for me to imagine it could somehow trick the charger into not charging as mentioned above. What about cars using those metal curb feelers or school buses/industrial vehicles that purposely have a chain dragging the ground for (what I always assumed to be) earthing purposes? On the other hand I have read that it is not good to leave a battery on the concrete floor for extended periods of time (because of current leakage to ground?)...

I would think it's a pretty good chance Myers would have one. There isn't much to it; two 90 degree bends and run a tap on the short ends. If you decide to make one I can measure the diameter (looks like ~ 0.5"), length, etc. Yea those screw rivets worked great.

Also, if you're looking at one with wire wheels, listen for clunks when applying the brakes. I bought one that had significant wear on the wheel hub splines due to someone not keeping the retaining nut tight. It made for an annoying clunk that could be heard and felt through the brake pedal. At the time the only way to repair these was to weld up the splines and re-machine them. There may be repros made now but I'll bet they ain't cheap either...

That seems like a pretty decent example for the money if it really has no under body rust.. Be sure and bring a magnet, flashlight and inspection mirror to detect any slipshod rust repair. Also, if you do lean towards a 'B', look for one with the electric overdrive if you think you will take any long trips. It makes highway driving much, much more pleasurable. One good thing about these is that they are dirt simple to work on.

I'm not an EE but I can't imagine a connection to 'earth' earth would make a difference. If it charges normally with cables disconnected then it certainly suggests something is wacky in the car wiring... Since the wiring is so simple it should be easy to bypass any suspect sections. Does your charger have an ammeter that shows it is actually charging? My charger will not charge a battery that is too dead. It has to have some minimum voltage before the charger will work (for safety ?). Hooking up a good battery in parallel bypassed this so the bad battery would then charge.

With regard to the tire change, I didn't end up using the soapy water simply because it wasn't necessary. The talc smeared on the tire bead and wheel did the trick. As for the fender rivets, if you don't have the tools to do them properly Restoration Supply Co. sells threaded rivets. I purchased some 10--32 #6 truss heads, cut them to the length needed and they look perfect as replacements for those fender rivets.

Looks pretty good to me especially when you consider how many times it has been ground over 90 years instead of sliding in smoothly. I know there a few threads on freeing up a sticky clutch which involves unbolting the sheet metal cover on the bell housing and spraying brake cleaner or pouring kerosene in there and letting it soak for a while. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/189038-clutch-plate-treatment/?hl=%2Bsticky+%2Bclutch#entry949966

There are also some threads on freeing up sticky clutch plates on this forum.