MikeC5

Hi Jay, the thread below is my experience with replacing the rear seals. Hopefully it helps. http://forums.aaca.org/f143/confusion-rear-axle-seals-25-a-329091.html

I'm amazed that it runs at all on gas that old...

That's a new one on me!

I have one of the larger clear filters in the line from fuel tank to vacuum tank (under rear floorboard) and it doesn't adversely affect vacuum tank operation. I used a larger filter on the assumption it would have less pressure loss than a smaller one. YMMV.

I wouldn't give up so easy Stu. Before you condemn the car try to (safely) get a look at the frame. If it's solid then patching the floor really isn't that difficult. My first car was a '67 Rustang and it had badly rusted floors and non-running engine. I sourced some sheet metal, hand shears, pop rivets and roofing cement to seal things up. Some carpet remnants and I was in business. As for engine parts, small block Chevys are not exactly thin on the ground... It will be easy to source any mechanical parts for this but you need to make sure the frame and suspension pick up points are solid.

I think cars restored to showroom stock condition have their place if you have the funds and are not concerned about the economics of getting all of it back out of the car if you decide to sell later on (but not over-restoration). Unless you are capable of doing top quality restoration and start with a good original car, it doesn't make economic sense unless the car is in big demand. So if the first two points don't bother you and you get a thrill buying a car fully restored (but having no part in the process), that's fine. I get satisfaction from this hobby because I enjoy learning how to do a reasonably good job (not show quality by any stretch) and taking pride in the end result. If you are lucky enough to find/afford a nice original antique auto in good serviceable condition (what I would call a survivor), to me that is much more interesting because the car's history shows though in details such as wear patterns, patina, etc. When you have a car that is beyond the point of driving as-is and restoration is the only option, I find it much more interesting to talk to the owner who has done the work (or most of it), knows the details.

Reserve not met... I think the seller is finding out the truth about the car's value.

Yea I hadn't ever seen that before.

The color combo, white walls and some of the paint details (black along belt line of doors, wheels) give this car an elegant look. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Other-Convertable-/301570515122?forcerrptr=true&hash=item463700e0b2&item=301570515122 No affiliation with seller...

Looks great! It has plenty of shine; did you already spray clear coat?

The galvanic series chart gives an idea how likely one metal will corrode when in electrical contact with electrolyte. http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic_corrosion_chart.htm It looks like it would depend on what Nickel alloy it is. If you don't know then a 300 series stainless looks like it would work.

I haven't used him yet but I've heard he does a nice job. http://www.topsockets.com/index.htm

They filled up the water jackets on mine...

That Locomobile is striking. But they were very high end cars and I don't think it can be compared to more humble, down market makes. Chrome/nickel and brass cost far more than paint (even back then)...

I was expecting something far worse.. There's gold in them thar iron oxides...

I tried various rental pullers with no success and finally had George fab one up to fit my '25 Dodge Brothers and it worked like a charm. That was before George even had a web site!

Rapid (trucks). A great read for those interested in this subject; Billy, Alfred and General Motors (William Pelfrey)

It locks it in neutral.

That would be the best way to make sure the key works. I tried it by the code number and it didn't work. But it wasn't too difficult to rearrange the pins so it would work.

It would be great if you could dig up the paint code. I hope to paint mine this summer.

Welcome Corey. It looks like you've made some fine progress on the sedan. My toe board plate (the large one in your photo) was in very similar condition to yours and I really could not find a way to bring it back since much of the paint is eroded away. You can buy an excellent reproduction from Myers (or maybe Vern has them too) and then have your car number stamped or engraved on the new plate. I don't know if anyone makes repros for the DB Business sedan plate. The brass one could be polished but masking the letters for repainting the black background would be tricky. The shade of blue you have on there looks very nice. Do you happen to know the paint code and manufacturer?

I'm pretty sure Myers sells rebuild kits for them including the thermometer.

Tom & Cindy have always been very helpful and friendly in my dealings with them. I met them at Hershey a couple of times and they were a pleasure to chat with.

I was able to get a good one from Myers.

Those louvers are a pain in the &%(%^ to strip... What kind of paint gun did you get? I got one of those LPHV (I think that's how it goes) and it works pretty nice.