MikeC5

I had a Slant 6 powered Mopar from '65 for a long time and after burning unleaded gas for several years and roughly 100K miles, compression was way down. Pulled the head and the exhaust valve seats were toast. I swapped the head for a later model one with induction hardened valve seats.

I had the pleasure of meeting Wayne in Hershey one year and he is a genuinely nice guy. My deepest condolences to him and his family.

True enough Al. Worth the risk in my humble opinion....

22Touring, do you have the paint code for the 'postal blue' used on your spokes perchance? It looks like a more medium blue than I expected and while my car has disc wheels, I am looking for a medium blue to paint them and the car body (fenders aprons will stay black). Thanks.

I think driving a T is quite a bit easier than a similar era non-synchro gear box. You don't grind any gears with the T. Just push that left pedal down to downshift, let it up for high gear. The middle pedal, being for reverse can be ignored most of the time (although it can also be used a break when moving forward).

This thread has some good info on tranny oil viscosity and fill level. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/61392-1922-db-gear-box-problems/?hl=%2Btranny+%2Blevel#entry247750 Mine had no gasket either and I suspect when the proper lube is in there a gasket isn't needed.

The gears appear to be in decent shape. What kind of oil is in there? Looks a little thin.

Interesting. I had read somewhere that a regular paper filter like this would be too much restriction for the Dodge's small oil pump. Do you still get 4 psi on the gauge on start up? How low does it drop when warmed up?

I'm 99% sure you can bolt the shifter assy back on minus the lock and you can shift normally.

Great! Let us know how it goes.

Hi Gary, go here: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/168906-transmission-lock/page-2?hl=%20shift%20%20lock Scroll down about mid way and I have instructions for how to remove the lock.

Santa has a really rad ride!

Great, thanks!

If you only plan to inflate tires then a small cheapie compressor will do the job.If you think you might want to get a few air tools, etc. then you need to put more thought into it. Look at the cubic feet per minute it can deliver at what pressure. Some air tools are real air hogs such as sandblasters or paint guns. If you do plan to use air tools I would also recommend staying away from those oil-less compressors..

Anyone? What kind of chassis grease did you use. Was it the dark grey kind with moly disulphide?

There are some available. The most comprehensive one is the original Dodge Brothers Mechanics Information Manual. Reprints can usually be found on Ebay or Myers has them too. http://www.myersearlydodge.com/image.php?ws_page=literature.php&ws_image=MVC-204F.JPG

Looks pretty solid. Great find!

I would be interested in the details on what oil filter you used, where you got it, maybe some photos of it installed.

Neat stuff! How did the name doodlebug come to be attached to these creations?

The peening effect of the blast media causes compressive residual stress on the metal surface. Imagine you had a very small ball peen hammer and covered the surface with hits, each making little dimples. The metal is actually deformed a bit to create the dimples which means some material get squished outward from the dimple center (and down into the thickness). Now imagine the dimples getting so dense they crowd into each other. The squished metal in each bumps into squished metal from its neighbors and compressive stress results. Since the opposite side of the metal has no stress there is an imbalance of force that causes the metal to warp. If you tried it on a strip of metal, the unpeened side would end up being on the inside of the warp (curve). Look up Almen strips to find out more.

Nice! Is the radiator deflecting back as much as it seems when you rev it? Are you planning to add some brackets?

Safety considerations aside, have you seen that video of the oil field Dodge? With chains I would think traction will be pretty decent and you can throw some extra weight in the trunk too. I would think chains would help with braking/minimize swapping ends.. I do agree that practice in a wide open space is a great idea.

Yup, good old 1/4 NPT fittings which you can buy at Big Orange or Blue. But if you want them too look like the original fittings you will need to source good used ones. The new ones do the job fine though.

You may want to sit down before reading the next sentence... I paid $1200 almost a year ago but that was not for an original-style round tube (which would have been around $2,000). Mine uses a sort of 50's style core, which is very efficient. So much so that I had to add an in line thermostat or it would barely budge the motometer. THere were a few other places in the country who quoted me $200 - $300 less but I would have had to deal with shipping. I used Harry Heitin Radiator Repair in Worcester, MA which was close enough to drive for me. They did nice work.

If the float leaks (causing it to sink instead of float), it will hold the needle valve open resulting in a flooding condition. My float had several stress cracks in it so it wasn't worth trying to save. I think the brass wasn't properly annealed after forming. I'm glad you got the timing figured out.