MikeC5

I'm getting ready to put my SG back in and just noticed this same very thing.... I thought, "schiezer! I lost the other sleeve somehow". It was a relief to find this thread....

Restoration Supply Company has a good selection of stuff like this. I've been pleased with things I purchased there. You can download their catalog here: http://restorationstuff.com/

I've got some drips coming from the rear end, especially after running the car for a while. Some of it comes from where the brake pivot shafts set into the differential housing. I found one mention in the Aug/Spet '92 issue of the club news that mentioned a wick for feeding oil to these rod end supports. Has anyone had any experience changing these? Or it suggests plugging the wick holes and using an oil can to lube these areas.

No, just the end cap on gear case to expose the starter chain. Then hand crank engine until the master link is accessible. Be sure and secure the ends of the chain once you remove the master link. I removed mine recently and it went pretty easy following the procedure HBergh attached.

I will have to check out those books.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/599638/613884.html?1455230270 We share some of the same DNA...

Thanks Harry, I missed that.

If it's not too much trouble, for 1925 Dodge Brothers?

Cool! Good luck with it.

I thought Ron was looking for engine splash shields... maybe not.

Anyone have a GA for parts?

I used a bearing separator plate in the press. It worked but I ended up breaking the cast snout (that front bearing mounts in)... I'm hoping it won't be too difficult to source another.

I have no direct knowledge of 1916 vintage but the splash pans on my '25 do not appear to be influenced by the steering gear box. I would think LHD/RHD wouldn't matter since the basic layout of engine/oil pan is the same (I believe). They are non-symmetric but so is the oil pan/bottom flange of block.

No luck with the hammer. I smacked it good too. I'm afraid to heat the gear for fear of conducting heat back to armature. I guess I'll have to rig something up for the hydraulic press...

Nice profile photo!

Purrs like a kitten. Nice work!

Thanks, will give it a try.

I'm tearing down my SG and wanted to replace the bearings and while getting that front nut removed was no problem, I can't budge the gear using a 3 jaw gear puller. There's no rust... what's up with this?

They look really nice. I like that Postal blue.

If it had no rust issues and can be confirmed to be free of poor accident repairs (which can only be done by a very thorough visual inspection with flashlight, mirror and maybe a magnet), I might think about purchasing. As mentioned above, the mechanical stuff is relatively easy (assuming it was never exposed to road salt) but any major rust repair will be very time consuming to do correctly or expensive to farm out. I also agree that you can probably find something better for the money in a similar vintage.

That is interesting. I missed reading that but sure enough, the front wheels are too far back... Maybe I should check that on mine....

It is hard to imagine that a matched set of 1934 Michigan plates are that rare. I'm sure having the original window sticker with the plate number on it is quite rare but how much of a premium is that worth? Plus they're repainted instead of original...

Good to know. I'm glad it was easy. Was the body on the chassis? It sounds like it could be done with just removing the driveshaft.

I've not done this but am curious if you have the trans installed or removed? Either way I would try to wedge a piece of wood in there between the case and gears to stop the gears from turning. I've done that when tearing down/rebuilding engines and want to keep the crankshaft from turning.

When you say re-wrap the field coils, do you mean re-wind them with new wire? I have an SG with a field coil problem but haven't had any luck finding someone willing to re-wind them. I have a spare that I can practice on but getting those pole screws out will take an effort similar to yours. How hard would it be to rewind them, assuming you can buy the correct gage/insulated wire?