MikeC5

Did you check compression? It should be around 50 psi. Have you followed the MIM for setting static timing?

And just like where I work! (but we normally use the other 4 letter word)...

I did have to drill holes for the Y bracket (I hadn't drilled them yet in 2nd photo). In the 3rd photo you can see (part of) the Y bracket bolted in.

Wow that's a lot of molasses! The hood looks good. It sure makes cleaning up those louvers easier.

Must be the patina on 2nd pair... Some sellers just don't get it. I remember one guy selling a tired looking mid 20's radiator & shroud (significant rust on shroud, radiator needing re-core). The guy wanted $1000 and got no bids week after week....

Hi Gary, these photos of my touring car chassis may help with muffler mounting. I did have trouble getting the tailpipe in place to match up with the 'Y' bracket. I ended up putting an extra bend or two in the tail pipe to get things matched up.

Good idea for a molasses soaking tub. How much molasses did you need ? My seat springs don't look much better... A winter project.

I think a T is easier to drive because the 2 speed planetary transmission is much more user friendly. The DB transmission is non-synchro with straight cut gears, as were most of the cars from this era. However, the DB is a little different in that when in 3rd gear, the lay shaft in the transmission is not engaged. This makes it more difficult to downshift to 2nd gear than say, a Model A (I have yet to pull off a clean downshift at all). The shift pattern is also unusual. I think the DB brakes are an improvement over the stock Model T drum brake. As for parts, you can almost build a T or A from a catalogue. No surprise there since there are still so many of them still operating which almost guarantees a market for repro items. Used major components for the DB are not too hard to come by; Myers Early Dodge and Romar offer a pretty decent selection of repro and used bits. It's not uncommon to see DB parts show up on Ebay.

This thread should help with rotating sector gear. You need to mark it at its current location (a punch mark) and then re-install such that the drag link is in the same position (or close) with wheels straight ahead. As mentioned above, the wedge shims are the method to adjust caster (tilt of king pins). Not enough caster will result in steering that doesn't want to stay centered so it is an important adjustment.

I thought I had added these to a thread somewhere but couldn't locate it. The first photo shows the repair I needed to do on the lower rail (once I cut away the rusted outer skin and saw the mess inside). The second shows the outer patch being readied for tack and plug welds. Hopefully your rust isn't as advanced as mine was. I have many more photos if you're interested.

After I unbolted the body and got all of the wires, etc. out of the way, I first had a helper lift and inserted 2 x 4 under the side rails. Then used an engine hoist load leveler and cargo straps hooked to eye bolts in the 4 far corners (body bolt down holes). The lifting is done via manual 1 ton chain hoist hooked up to a beam in the garage. I have some other photos in this thread that show fixing the same rust areas you mention.

Very nice work! Patience is the key...

If the threads look good on the axle U-bolts that would seem the easiest way. I would heat up the nuts with a propane torch a bit to make sure it isn't rust locked. I did check mine when I had the body off and they were able to turn. Judging by the rust on the lower parts of the body on my car, I was surprised. Hopefully, that is a good omen for you.

Nothing like a good exploded parts photo to explain what's going on. I had mine apart 3 - 4 years ago and didn't take photos so I'll be saving this one. Myers or Romar might have the bits you need.

I think I got mine from Myers Early Dodge. Have you checked with them?

I thought I had posted the measurements for these but apparently not. The other thing that seems a bit unusual about this set is the the forward socket has no linkage connecting it to the 2nd socket (as in Larry's example). It doesn't appear to me that it ever did have one.

Hi Terry, if you look closely, the set I have in the link are 4 bows. I'm hoping that some of the details such as the stamped steel connector for the 3rd bow socket (4th photo) might be recognizable. I was able to post my photos with no issues. What happens when you try to? Did you try the 'choose files' link or 'drag here' method?

Might anyone know what car these irons might be for?

I have this set of top sockets in restorable condition which are for a teens to 20s touring car (see link). I'm trying to find out what brand car they came from. I can't find any part number or other ID mark. I'd like them to go to someone who needs them. Other than John's Enterprises in CA (whose internet access appears to be gone), is there anyone else that might be knowledgeable on such things? http://forums.aaca.org/topic/280623-fs-1920s-top-iron-set/

Ah... I see that is the same stuff I'm using... Hmmm...

Interesting... Have you tried to downshift 3-2 yet? I have the Resto Supply Co. 1500 WT "Meropa" oil in mine and one thing I have noticed is that when first driving off after a cold start, it just doesn't want to make the 1-2 shift. I really have to force it in with some grinding. After that, the problem goes away. I still haven't managed a 3-2 downshift either. Did you use straight LUB164 or mixed with something else?

That is quite strange. My '25 also does not have the collar above the phenolic piece. Perhaps this was part of something aftermarket added to the car at some time (blinker switch?). If you do manage to get it off of there (maybe with a small 3 jaw puller), it would appear you would end up with a 1/2" or so gap between installed steering wheel and phenolic. If so, this would suggest either a longer steering shaft was used (from a different year DB?) or the steering shaft is not engaged to the normal depth on the steering gearbox connector. A photo of that might confirm the latter scenario. If this turns out to be some sort of aftermarket add-on, I would replace the steering shaft with a good used one. I don't like the idea of a hole drilled through where it doesn't belong on such a safety critical component or at least have it checked for cracks (magnaflux).

I have a Klaxon on my '25 and although it's not correct (they used Northeast horns), it has the kind of aaaoooogah sound that fits with the car. Mine is a 6 volt but a resistor in series fixed that.

Some of us can relate, I'm sure.

The measurements aren't too different but yours has a couple of extra links to the forward iron.