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About EricHoman

  • Birthday 11/27/1990

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  1. I had the same issue and repacked my water pump at the end of last summer. It was very tight, but I was able to get it done without taking anything apart. As Jay mentioned one nut is RH and one is LH thread. You will need some sort of pick to get in there and get the old packing out. I used the sturdiest paperclip I could find and probably spent a strong half an hour just picking the old dried up crap out. I got the packing from meyers early dodge and put it around the shaft with just a little extra grease. My shaft was pretty pitted and worn, as yours likely will be, but it has held up so far. I did my best polish it a bit with steel wool but there is not much you can do in that tight of space.
  2. What Grease / Oil should I be using in the steering box on my 1925? The book calls for a "graphite grease" which I am not familiar with. What do you guys recommend?
  3. Congratulations! You will find that the people here are very helpful. My Dodge is a '25 and there are a few differences from yours, primarily it looks like yours is the 6 volt electrical system with a seperate starter/generator where mine is a 12 volt with starter generator all in one. Because of this a couple of items are layed out a bit different, but I have attached a picture of my engine bay so that you can see how that vacuum tank is hooked up if you choose to get yours going again. Ignore the rubber black hose coming from the top of my tank as that goes to an older but not original wiper motor. Check out http://www.myersearlydodge.com/ for parts, they have a lot. It looks like you already have the Mechanics Instruction Manual which is great, but I would also recommend getting one the "Book of Information" as well. I have both and each book seems to be a bit more detailed in different areas. In regards to your distributor, my retard/advance is not any more than yours.
  4. Thanks all! It took some muscle but I was able to get it off. I appreciate the quick feedback!
  5. Hopefully this is a really simple question for someone here. I have a burnt out light bulb in one of the headlamps on my 25 Dodge Brothers Sedan. Can someone tell me how to get at the bulb? The only screw I see is the one on the back of the housing that is used to adjust the headlamp aiming. To me it looks like the front ring that holds the glass in should pop right off but I want to be sure before I start tugging on a 90 year old headlamp. Thanks for the help!
  6. Did the car run previously? I had the same issue with fuel running out of the carburetor air intake when I couldn't get the car started this spring. I assumed I had a carburetor problem also but it was just the result of cranking. I put in a new coil and condenser and it fired right up. I don't want to doubt what your buddy found with spark but based on my (limited) experience, if your car was previously running but now is not I would be surprised if it is a carburetor issue. Do you get spark all the way to the plugs?
  7. Assuming your car is together and running, if you move the levers while looking in your engine bay you can see pretty quick what they do. One will rotate your distributor cap to advance the spark and the other will adjust your throttle the same way the foot pedal does. I don't touch the hand throttle unless I want a little higher idle. Leave the spark retarded to start but once its running (assuming timing is set properly) you can advance it all the way.
  8. I suppose its possible, but I am not familiar enough with throwout bearings to tell. Is there an easy way to tell?
  9. 22touring, I seem to have the same issue as you, I also do not know if it is normal or not. When shifting up or down I take my time and double clutch and have very smooth gear changes. Going into first at a stop gives me a lot of grinding however, my clutch seems to drag enough that the driven gears start spinning even with the clutch depressed. I don't have the thick 600w oil like others here do so I'm not sure if the clutch dragging like that is normal and the heavier oil is enough to stop it or if my clutch actually has a problem. I've taken the clutch cover off and cleaned the clutches with brake clean but it didn't really help. When driving the car I get smooth shifts into first by leaving the car in gear as I come to a stop and once stopped I move directly from third to first. If I leave the gearshift in neutral, even with the clutch depressed, the gears will begin to spin and give me some bad grinding when I try go back into first. When I had the clutch cover off I took a video of the clutch with the engine running, showing that with the clutch depressed that as a I move the gear shift from in gear to neutral, you can see the driven plates start moving without me releasing the clutch. My car has the multiple plate clutch setup and it seems that there is nothing forcing the plates apart when the clutch is depressed. When i push in the clutch the plates are not held together at all, but there is also nothing pushing them apart meaning they just sort of rest next to eachother and produce enough resistance that transmission gears will start turning. When the car is off and the clutch is depressed I can move the plates back and forth freely with my fingers. Sorry for the long post, kind of hard to explain my situation with fewer words. Any advice is appreciated!
  10. I had an issue with getting spark at one point as well and it ended up being the condenser in the distributor. I got a modern replacement from Myers early dodge. Was a pretty easy fix.
  11. The original coil on my 1925 went out so we replaced it with modern coil. I just went to the local auto parts store and asked for a standard 12V coil. I don't think it was more than 20$ and it has worked very well for me. Made a bracket for it using a piece of scrap metal that was lying around and used one of the bolts where the engine mounts to the frame. We mounted it close enough to the original coil that we did not even need to lengthen any wires.
  12. If you look on the drivers side of your transmission on the outside you'll see a plate held on by I believe 6 bolts. This plate holds the reverse gear. With the fluid drained you will be able to actually see this gear through the access plate in the top of the transmission. I just made sure the gear and its bracket were covered with oil.
  13. Hi Frank, I'm not looking to buy anything but your pictures brought up something I have been wondering for some time. In your picture of the drivers side engine bay, to the right of the vacuum tank and mounted to the firewall is something which looks like a copper bell with a handle on it. My car (a '25) has the mounting bracket but I've never known what belongs there. I'm really curious, could you let me know what that thing is?
  14. My car has a vacuum powered wiper motor that as long as I have known the car has been disconnected and non-functional. Over the weekend I pulled the motor apart and I believe as long as I can get a good strong vacuum to it theres no reason it shouldn't work. The gear that attaches to the spindle that turns the wiper had a piece broken off that was laying inside the housing. The metal is obviously very old and getting a little fragile but I was able to JB Weld it back and I think it will hold. My question right now is in regards to the seals on the middle portion that seperates the right and left chambers. There seems to be some sort of greasy type substance on them and as long as they are apart I'm wondering if I should put something on them to keep them soft and fresh. The advice I have gotten from a friend is to use a little bit of vaseline on these seals. Do any of you guys have any experience with a motor like this and what would you recommend? The first picture shows the gear and the small piece that was broken off. This piece being broken allowed the screw that clamps onto the rod to come loose, causing the rod to spin freely. The seals appear to be in ok shape, hopefully they will be tight enough to do the job. Once again, any advice is appreciated! Update: I went ahead and softened the leather seals up with a little petroleum jelly and the motor works 50%. It will slide to the right under to power of the vacuum but will not slide back to the left. One of the gaskets on that side is really bad so I'm going to try cut a new one, I feel pretty good that this will get it up and running.
  15. Thanks! As far as I can tell the leather on the seats is original, I try to be very careful to be easy on them. As far as I can tell just about everything on the car besides the running boards is original. It was also repainted and had the bumpers re-chromed in the late '80s. And I was aware of the folding seat! We have a tool pouch with a few of the original tools as well as the hand crank stored under there.
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