FLYER15015

Now boys, be nice. I often wondered what if one of those old "octosomethings" married a Dimaxon, what would their children look like. Now that's a scary thought............ Mike in Colorado

This is a question for all the detailing people / shops out there. I recently had a chance to tour the NPD shop in Ocala, Florida. Saw a lot of very beautiful cars, all highly polished. One that impressed me was a dark blue '59 Buick 4 door that looked like it was "dipped in glass". So I asked, what polish they used on their cars ? Answer was "Chadwick's Triple Play" My question is, does anyone use this product, and what was your experience with it. I bought a bottle and their sponge applicator, and using it on the hood of my daily driver, a 2013 Chrysler T&C, It felt like doing a clay bar treatment without the clay. Wiped it off with a terry cloth towel and finished off with a micro fiber towel. Hood is now glass smooth and NO swirl marks. I would like to try it on the '31 Chrysler which was painted in 1980, ( a pretty amateurish job) and no clear coat. I just wonder how this product, or what YOU use, will hold up to dust and Lord forbid, rain. I've never owned a power buffer, and have always done my wax jobs by hand. I'm not headed to Amelia or Pebble, but I would like to make the old girl presentable. Let the comments begin.............. Mike in Colorado

NOW THAT'S FUNNY !!!!!!!! I did not know Honda's had those. I NEVER cleaned the one on my Honda 90, when I had one years ago. Mike in Colorado

TTR, They ARE moving out and they are coming to Colorado. The sad part is, their bringing their ideas with them. Colorado is now solid "blue". Used to be just Boulder, and we could laugh at them. It's not funny anymore.................. Mike in Colorado

Flatee, You will get a lot of lookers here, but you really should post this question in the "Buick Post War Technical" forum. I think the Buick guys will jump all over this question............. Mike in Colorado

Yup, Matt's right again. Go the gear vendors route. Suggestion comes from a guy with more "likes" than posts, so he MUST know something. Even if he can't get #2 cylinder to fire........... Mike in Colorado

Obsolete, Let me state up front that I agree with Rusty 100%. HOWEVER, Since you have an "open" drive shaft car, rather than trying to swap out the crown and pinion (for our folks down under), why not just replace the whole rear end. You will get newer bearings, brakes, and gears, and even though you may have to have adapters made to re fit the old wheels, you will have uprated the whole rear end. Of course you will be banned from Pebble and Amelia but you can go a bit faster. Just keep in mind, a '30's car will never make a good interstate cruiser. However in todays world, they do make good cars for "Driving Miss Daisey". Mike in Colorado

Leo, I think you will be fine using the 1/4 - 5/16 combo with the mounting hole. Manual brakes move such a small amount of fluid back and forth, whether it is in a 1/4" or 5/16" tube should make no difference at all to your pedal throw. I believe the old guys at Chrysler believed that when feeding 2 quarter inch lines, they needed to use a 5/16" "feeder". Just my $ .02, and worth every penny. Mike in Colorado

Jack, My '31 CG is backwards of your description. My cable is pushed in and I have compression braking. I validated that the cable is hooked up to the lever @ the Tx. Now I'm trying to discover what the big solenoid on the drivers side of the O.D. unit is for and where it's 2 wires go. Mike in Colorado

Apparently, neither do I. Had her for over a year now and I've always been afraid to pull the cable. When in doubt, read the book........... Mike in Colorado

Thanks, but mine is a '31 CG, and the headlight /parking light switch is a lever on the steering wheel. I don't see a light in the center of the wheel, and don't see any unaccounted for wires down at the clum switch. Guess I'll have to re read the manual for '31's. Mike in Colorado

Thanks for asking B-B. I would like to know the reason for the solenoid too. I don't have an indicator light in the instruments or on the dash, so what's it for ?

I showed you mine, now you show me yours Mike in Colorado

You talking about all the houses they built on top of the sand mine on HWY 50 between Claremont and Groveland, where the water table is 8 inches higher than their garage floors ? About 6 miles east of my sister in law's Blueberry farm in Claremont. Mike in Colorado

Yup, they do. Out here in dry Colorado, after cleaning the dog food out of the air filter on my 1985 Ford F-250 THREE times, we quit feeding the dogs outside, and dropped a half dozen moth balls in the air filter to keep the ground squirrels from building their nest in there. Also dropped several all round the engine bay, as if left for a long time, they will eat the wire insulation. Plus, I always keep a few in the Buick and the Chrysler's back seat area. Wool upholstery you know. Spectators at the car shows say they smell like their grandma's house. No, I have not dropped any moth balls in the gas tank to raise the octane rating yet. However, back in the sixty's, we always stopped at the dry cleaners on the way to the track and got some used naptha, to fill the oil bath air cleaner of the old Desoto stock car we raced. Better than NOX for the first lap or two. If your out front, they can't hurt you......... Mike in Colorado

Pcm, Just as an FYI, my daily driver, after coming home from Korea in 1963, was a '47 Windsor. Kind of an olive green, with a rusty hood. We painted the hood flat black and painted a couple of palm trees on the driver's door. Called her "Rommel's staff car". Drove that old girl to work and back plus a lot of vacations for 12 years. Finally traded her for a '60 vette. Worst trade we ever made ! Mike in Colorado

Pcm, Here you go. Before, after paint and installed. For your viewing pleasure.......... Mike in Colorado

Pcm, I just made a shield for my '31 Imperial fuel pump. Took a piece of 14 gage and cut it 5" x 9". Bent one end down 90 degrees x 1" which will go at the rear. I had the 3 stand off pins on the fuel pump, so I put a dab of white paint on top of each, and positioned the plate over the pump just how I wanted it to sit and pressed down on the pins. Showed me right where to drill the 3 holes. I'll post a picture tomorrow when the paint dries. My fuel line comes off the front of the pump and vertically up and straight back to the carb over the intake manifold. A pretty short run, but up here at 8500 ft. vapor lock is a way of life, so most of the older cars have fiberglass sleeves on their fuel lines. And we all run electric fuel pumps mounted back at the tank and on a toggle switch straight to a hot lead. Takes a lot of strain off the starter, when they sit for a week or so between drives. AND you can kick it in when she coughs on those long mountain pulls. Mike in Colorado

Thanks Walt for all your contributions. They have made the last few months of "lock down" tolerable, and we've also learned a lot. Your trophy is in the mail................... Mike in Colorado

Oops, I hate when that happens..... Mike in Colorado