Luv2Wrench

I don't believe there is a bearing that fits both ID and OD thus lathe work is required. The original bearings where loose ball bearings in a cage.

I have scanned mine and have them in digital form, PM me and I'll send them to you.

With a partially collapsed gas tank you'll be saving money each time you fill it up. Wonderful job on the wagon, I really like the car.

Great looking truck! Thanks for taking us along on your journey, can't wait to see how it goes!!

That's a great looking car!! While sacrilegious to say so here... for a 16 year old, lowering that a tad, tinting the windows and with the right wheel/tire combo, that would be a sweet ride. When he's 18 he can LS swap it, upgrade brakes and so on an so forth. OK... I'll stop before I get banned.

If you think 2100 sq ft will work, make it 4200

Finally completed the "under dash" panel. There are some measurements for this on the web and they're close but I checked against my car and could tell they wouldn't fit. I ended up making mine by creating the first templates from pieces. The center part was easy because it was just a rectangle. I cut that out of cardboard and stuck it in place. I could the measure from there to the right side in front of the roll bar. I cut that piece out and glued it to center section with hot melt glue. I repeated that for the all the other sections until I had one piece. Once complete I, of course, couldn't remove it... lol. I had to make a few mods just to get it out. I transferred the assembled template to another sheet of cardboard and then spent some time tweaking that. Once I was happy with how it fit I made the bracket. It attaches to the inner dashboard in 3 places and then to a wood support just behind the roll bar on each side. With all of that complete I visited my local custom auto upholstery shop and got some "door board" which is a waterproof heave cardboard of sorts. They called it "waterproof board" and I've heard it called "Cowlboard". I transferred the template to that, cut it out, test fit it and then covered with vinyl. I'm happy with how it came out and thrilled to be done with that task. There's just zero room under that dash and getting down there and then back up was taking its toll on my knees!! I have most of the instrument panel assembled but, of course, I'm waiting on a couple of items to complete that. I'll probably start on the top and side curtains next.

Wonderful! Patina on the outside and comfort on the inside. Love it.

Very excited to see this restoration. I would say, however, that if I owned the car I'd probably get it mechanically sound and leave it as is. It just has such a cool look with that patina. It'll look outstanding when restored as well of course. Going to be beautiful and I'm glad you're taking us along for the ride!!

Does it look something like this? Br

Just a fantastic restoration!! I'm not sure how I missed this project but I'm sure glad I found it now!

Sounds like you're doing it right. I don't think there's much magic involved, you just repeat the process until it is all correct and move on to the next step. If you have the patience to keep at it you'll have a outstanding result. There may be talented people that can do it in less time but you'll both end up with the same finish.

The trick with the friction disc is you don't want it to slip.... but then again... you do!! The disc motion is circular but the friction wheel's motion is linear (where they meet). Toward the center of the disc this is (obviously) much more of an issue. A good visual image of this is what happens when the paper pulley is right in the middle?! Metz had the notice to apply only as much pressure as needed as more pressure would add strain to the engine as it had to overcome the additional load of tearing apart the paper pulley. Let me know what you end up doing and you experiences with it. I hope to be fabricating one for my car in a year (or two).

I remember hearing it was "cast aluminum" but I don't remember where I heard/read that nor do I have any more detail. McMaster-Carr has a couple different types of cast aluminum https://www.mcmaster.com/cast-aluminum/ The "Impact-resistant Marine-grade 5083" sounds pretty interesting since our disc are outside. The MIC6 disc made from 7000 series seems convenient as you can get it as a disc. If you have an old-school machine shop nearby you might take it to them and they might be able to tell you what it is.

There will be new pandemic in 8 months so you can imagine the delay would really be forever. You're doing a great job, can't wait to see it complete!

I store critical parts somewhere clever as well. So clever that they're still there even after me searching for them for weeks.

Making good progress. All interior panels are in as well as 90% of the side curtain storage box. I'm missing the male half of the snaps so I'll need to get those and a couple of correct woods screws to finish that off. I got the glove box insert installed and the dashboard in place ready to start putting the instruments in. I'll probably get the instruments installed again and then install the "under dash". Once that is in place I move to the top and side curtains.

I believe that disc is two discs, one is the bigger casting that connects onto the drive shaft. The other is a simple disc attached to the casting by the slotted screws around the rim. Remove those screws and the disc will then come off. Probably best to replace the disc rather than resurface it. They were made to be removable so you could replace them. I believe you could flip them and then replace them. I know you could do that with the style my 1913 has but mine is a bit different from your's.

The saying "standing on the shoulder of giants" comes to mind... and sometimes we forget just how tall the giants we stand on are.

Certainly a big improvement! The 3D veneer can be a bit of a challenge but there are some videos and sites that talk about the process. Have you looked at Moss Motors? I know they now carry MarkVII parts including full interior kits. I was looking at getting one of these cars and was looking at the cost of redoing the interior. I think the interior kit was $9K, seats were around $2K to $3K.

That engraver is wicked cool... I might need to borrow that one day. I use the indicator trick you taught me on the lathe but might be nice to redo that whole thing when I replace the lead screw.

Please post a picture so I can remember what it looks like and make sure we're talking about the same thing.

Haven't had a lot of shop time but managed to get the right side interior completed. Unfortunately I couldn't do the left side because I was missing 4 screws. I ordered those 4 weeks ago and when they finally came in... they were not BSF thread so they wouldn't work. Since I have a lathe I made them which, really, I should've just done to start with. I was a little unsure about turning a 4" rod from 5/16" diameter (size of head) to 3/6" diameter (size to be threaded) as I felt it would just bend. I took multiple really light passes and while it worked it really didn't... while it didn't bend it flexed enough that I cut a 20 thou taper from one end to the other. I Googled how to do this different and found I should be using a follow rest and/or a box cutter (basically a follow rest and cutter combined). Google also found a video where a guy (Joe Pieczynski - really great site) turned a 2" long needle out of 1/2" stainless steel. He did so setting the depth of cut to be all of the material to be removed and only doing 1" at a time. With only 1" out of the chuck it is easy to hog off the material to remove. My lathe had zero problem with that and I was able to create my screws very quickly. Very unintuitive at first but makes complete sense later. Once parted I made a slot with a hacksaw and then zinc plated them. Another thing I learned was make your own parting tools. I've been trying to use those thin ones thinking since it was taking less material it would work better. Wrong. I ground one that is a little bigger than 1/8" wide and it plows through the work with no issue. Parting went from nightmare to no big deal. Once I turned the rod to size I used a die to add the threads.

I had similar issues. I made a lot of changes that all helped a little. I went with a 2.2mm tip, "removed" the pressure regulator at the gun, dialed the pressure back to 22psi, added 10% reducer to primer, opened flow to 2.5 turns. The bigger tip helped for sure, but I think "removing" the pressure regulator from the gun and reducing the overall air pressure helped the most. I didn't physically remove the pressure regulator, rather I opened it to full open position. There is a gauge on the regulator and with the trigger pulled I set the desired pressure at the wall rather than with the regulator on the gun. I read that the regulators on the guns are not true regulators but pinch valves that while they reduce pressure they greatly reduce air flow. You need a lot of air to get a lot of paint out, if you don't have a lot of air (volume) you end up turning up the pressure and it sprays the paint so thin it can dry before it hits the surface. I also added some slow reducer to thin it just a tad and slow the dry time. One thing that helped my positivity is to feel blessed that I had a lot of other things to do that got in the way of working on the car. A complicated life is often the results of a life well lived so you just have to be happy about that and the car will get done when it gets done.

Great story... if you could, find that picture and post it!!!