ThreePedals

I like it, thanks. The original disc might very well be cast; it just has that feel. Of course, it measures 17” in diameter, though there is clearance for an 18” disc. Heck, that could add a mile an hour or two! I read somewhere the Model 25 employed a slightly larger disc. As an engineer myself, this has become another fun science project. There is an engineer out there somewhere who knows the best solution to this spinning friction, transfer of mechanical power stuff. My research turned up a potential source of information on friction systems with whom I may confer next week. https://www.rowlandcompany.com/about/ On the About page, the company claims to be the Problem Solver for any situation that involves the transmission of power from a driven force to a driving force (Although that sounds backwards to me, I’m pretty sure we’re talking about the same thing). Under the Products tab, Friction and Wear Materials, they mention re-lining obsolete friction discs. Stay tuned……..

Your advice was spot-on. I decided to remove the aluminum plate from the cast iron disc. Luckily, the 20 screws behaved nicely. Interesting note: they are non-ferrous (presumably brass) 1/4-24 screws. Once removed, I could see that the plate had been reversed once before, so I will be replacing it. The added bonus was that it became obvious from this new vantage point exactly how the cast iron disc is mounted to the drive shaft answering my first question. Included is a photo of the creative attachment. So now that I’m in fabrication mode, does anyone know what specific flavor of aluminum, speaking metallurgically, that would be best suited to the task? My call to Paper Pulleys Inc. did not yield any suggestions as to the best surface from which to drive their friction material; they stay firmly on the driven, not driving side of the equation.

I’m out of state at the moment and will return home next weekend. I’ll take a close-up shot of the backside of the disc as it connects to the driveshaft then. This shot is probably no help. And yes, that is original 106 year old wood and upholstery as decrepit as it is. Thanks for chiming in.

The large flat disc that drives the friction wheel on my recently-acquired 1915 Model 22 Fore Door needs to be resurfaced. I see two collars and some fine threads before it disappears into the bearing. Perhaps someone would be kind enough to give me some sage advice on removing the disc without fumbling with undo force and possibly damaging it. How was it assembled and how do I carefully remove it?

This came from another thread. I'll toss it in.

The red car just doesn't look right, the primered car looks better. The mounting stud must be angled to rotate the left saddle clockwise and the right saddle counterclockwise (as seen from above) so the saddles can accept the bars that are essentially parallel side to side. We know there are two part numbers and that the difference isn't in the saddle itself. I think the red car has saddles with straight mounting studs. We know the body holes are on the corners. Here's mine with a bolt in it to show the angle. There is no way the top would mate well in a saddle at that angle. Sorry I haven't had time recently to reach out to club members here locally just yet. We'll figure this out. If I find them, no worries, I'll have them reproduced, period. I've been researching 3D printing in metal. We got this.

By the way, I'm also in search of the two latches that secure the top to the windshield, and a rectangular glass rear window (backlight) that I'm told has beveled edges and hard to find metal framework.

Here's a photo of page 20 from my original Dodge Brothers Book of Information, eighteenth edition, dated November 1924 (the exact month my car was manufactured). The Top Rest of a Touring Car is well represented here. Note, the side iron at rest appears to follow the body line nicely, sweeping just slightly upward. The spare tire can be seen here for reference as well. To hear of an eight year search is truly disheartening. I'll check with my regional DB club (Northern California) to see if an example is available in hand then advocate strongly for reproducing them.

If I ever find a correct set (DB 314s in my case), I promise to look into having them recast or better yet 3D printed in metal, of course. This is clearly a difficult acquisition for so many of us.

I'm in the same boat here with my search for information and saddles. My DB Touring car was built in November 1924. From what I've been told, the correct saddles had the number 314 (L & R) cast into them for '24 and '25. Ed aka #4, I am very interested.