NCReatta

This car is now on eBay http://m.ebay.com/itm/1990-Buick-Reatta-Select-60-Convertible-/112398671333?nav=SEARCH

1990 Select 60 #64 restoration project for sale $5800 only 71,000 miles Needs a lot but runs and drives and the air works. Good: Complete portfolio Air works CD player works Both power windows work Door panels perfect All center caps Antenna works Top functions well Bad: Needs paint, top, tires. Wheels need to be refinished Two small chips in windshield Seat recliners do not work Visor clips broken ABS light is on Radio crackles One cable for the top release broken Headlight motors need to be rebuilt Seats need to be reupholstered I can preform some or all of these repairs for anyone who may be interested. This car will be going on eBay next week if it's not sold before then Photos can be viewed here:

For Sale Supercharged 1988 Reatta. Bought from a customer who needed to clear some space in the garage. Over $10,000 reportedly spent to do this build. Runs and drives, extremely fast. Customer said it was pushing 300hp and I believe it. I have not had it on a dyno to be sure though. Everything interfaces with the CRT and even the cruise works. The car it's in isn't a particularly nice car. Has over 200k, but is a solid rust free base to restore. Or pull the motor and install in your current Reatta $2800 Will try to get some photos tomorrow to post. Car is an early 88 Red/tan with suede standard seats. Please contact me at 919.233.1973 if you're interested or have any questions

Just to clear the air a bit here.... 1990 and 1991 Convertibles use FOUR bulbs. not three. They use 891 halogen bulbs. You can get them on RockAuto.com anywhere from $1.49-8.98. These bulbs run so hot (like any halogen bulb) that their lifespan is not long, especially if they get oils from human hands on them. The oil will boil and destroy the bulb. Save yourself the trouble and buy 4 brand new bulbs and do the job the right way the first time.

The cradles are different in 1988 models.

In other parts of the country we don't have issues with the power steering coolers rusting out. We have about 30 of these sitting in a box. All rust free and all the correct Reatta part. Yes, that means no zip-ties or coat hangers required to mount it.

Motors and regulators are two different parts. Your issue sounds like a bad motor problem, not a regulator. New motors can be had from NAPA or similar for under $50. I've only sold two regulators ever. The regulators are not available new, but rarely fail.

If you have the entire button assembly (the only way horn buttons should be bought and sold), you must remove the airbag to remove the two T-20 torx screws that hold each button assembly in. '90 and '91 are different than '88 and '89

30 Black/Garnet Red convertibles had the 16-way seat option. It seems the convertible Barney mentioned that was not equipped with a black top left the factory with a white vinyl top. I can't imagine how anyone thought that looked good when it ordered by a dealer..

Just to clear the air some... '88 and '89 fuel sending units are unique to those models. '90 and '91 are different as they have plastic lines instead of the metal lines. fittings are also different from coupe to convertible on the fuel sending units. in my experience, these units cannot be repaired. Particularly if they're rusted. Replacing the sender is the best course of action. We have the correct style sending units in stock. They're all rust free, and include a 2 year warranty. We also have the radio modules in stock. ill be through Birmingham later this month if you wanted me to drop anything off.

We offer refurbished screens with ALL the problem components replaced. Not just the problem with each particular screen. We also have a proprietary method of refinishing the screen cosmetics to get rid of the wear over the volume buttons and other parts of the screen. These are the closest thing to a new screen as you can buy. We also include a two year warranty. our screens are available on our website and have been for years: http://www.eastcoastreattaparts.com/#article/179

I would prefer a 150,000 mile car from California or Arizona over a 50,000 mile car from Michigan or Minnesota. Issues caused by mileage (transmissions, cosmetics etc) can be repaired. Rust never goes away.

We have all the parts you're looking for. We freight worldwide too. send me some photos of the damage and a list of what you need, along with your ZIP code and I'll get get you a price on all the parts

I would take the whole tail light wiring harness with you. It is 1991-specific, and won't fit your '89, but is of value. The door switch pod harnesses are part of the entire car harness. Not worth pulling all that. Though if you're scrapping the car, it may be worth clipping the connectors off with a few inches of wire as the plastic decks the wire go into can sometimes break and need to be replaced.

I made this offer to Xerxes66 on Saturday and I'll make it to any potential buyers here... This car isn't far from us, and I'd be happy to retrieve it and get it drivable (fixing the idle problem, cat, cluster, headlights etc) so someone can fly into RDU and drive it home.

I would highly reccomend removing tbe moulding s from the bottom. Not the top. You might break a clip, but you won't damage the door or the moulding. you can use your fingers if you're taking it off from the bottom, so you won't need to use any tools that might scratch the door or pry against the door. Clips are cheap and easy to replace. The mouldings not so much. I've removed over 250 of these mouldings using this method and have only had 6 clips break.

8/32?? Sounds like some way over-complicated instructions if you ask me. Also, anyone who tells you to remove the motor worm drive is setting you up for failure. I just received a core motor through our rebuilt headlamp motor program from a shop in California. I was suprised to see that it had been previously rebuilt using the kit people have outlined above. it was bound up, and upon removing the (non OEM) screws holding the electric motor onto the housing, I found the inside of the motor around the brushes was burned. I've chucked that motor in the parts bin with the 4 other motors I've had come in completely locked up. Ironically, those were also previously rebuilt using sub-par kits. We've sold over 250 of our rebuilt headlight motors have have never had a single one come back with issues. When you use a kit that fits without spacers or need for fine tuning with a hammer, your motors will last a lifetime. Which is why we also give our motors a lifetime limited warranty. Not for just how long you own the car, but until the car is no longer in service. Hell, I even pulled a set of our motors off a customer's car we bought back as a parts car (it was rear ended). I removed those motors and reinstalled them in one of my own cars because they still worked flawlessly.

John, yours is the second line thag I've sold. Another customer with a select 60 had the same issue. I'm not sure where his break was, but it was the same line from the filter to engine bay. Not to say it's a common issue, but I've seen it once before.

Unplug your mass air sensor and see if that makes a difference. It may not make it run perfectly, but it may take away the stumble. I just had the same issue on a 1990 convertible and replacing the MAF fixed it.

I've gone to the dealer with proof I own the car (title, but registration may work too) and they've run me off keys for about $30 using the VIN. Just hope nobody has had an ignition lock replaced at any point. (Happened on one car I did).

I have the TSB here somewhere where it outlines about two dozen '88s that were fitted with the later high pressure line Teves system. It gives the last 6 digits of the VIN for each of them. I'll see if I can find it tomorrow. We had '88 #4291 here a couple years ago. It had the later design line.

If it were a factory sunroof it would probably be worth what they're asking. Sadly it's one of the popular mid west glass pop up sunroofs. These are installed aftermarket, and are often installed without drains. Leading to massive water leakage when driven in the rain. i would bet this car came from up north (IL, MI, WI, IN) and was bright down by a snow bird.

David, We sell Reatta convertible tops, and they're not the ill-fitting junk you find most places. These tops fit like a well tailored suit when installed. They fit longer over the door gaskets and over the rear 5th bow so you're not relying on the gaskets as much. All of our Reatta tops come with the glass back window already installed. We also ship internationally as well, which many places will not do. I just had a customer send some pictures this morning of their newly installed top from us. Pictured below. You can see how well the top fits. Feel free to call any time with questions. (919) 233 1973

The video and statement from the owners seems to back up my statements in a previous post about Select 60 hood emblems. That wood plaque is nice, the dealer probably had it mounted on there to display in his office.

What does that have to do with the topic at hand? '90 headlight switches are worth $200-650 depending on condition (I've sold a couple NOS for $650)