NCReatta

I bought a 1992 Ultra several months ago. It had a similar issue and a full tank of premium solved it. It also solved a stuttering issue it had on take off.

They were testing the new PPG waterbourne paint. It was also cutting edge at the time to use the robots they were using to paint the cars. From what I've heard from Craft Centre employees, the bodies we're actually sold to PPG prior to paint, PPG would paint them, and then sell them back to GM only after a satisfactory paint job was achieved. This way, if PPG messed something up in their "experimental" process, it would fall on them and GM wouldn't have that loss. Sadly, we know now that waterbourne paint doesn't have quite the longevity of solvent based options. Though it is a lot more environmentally friendly. Attached is a photo of a mug I received from a former employee of the Craft Centre. It says a lot for a little mug.

If we're collecting Y-job photos, here's the Y with the Avenir Concept at the 2015 Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance. Pictured with Ed Welburn, GM VP of global design at that time.

I'll be driving out. In a Reatta of.course. Looking forward to it!

2021 will be my 9th meet. 2012 in Concord was my first! This will be an awesome meet. Can't wait!

I am making an effort to buy this car on Copart. Hoping it can be saved. I just hope this post doesn't end up like that Select 60 in Houston several years ago. A bunch of tire kickers driving the price up with pure speculation. The car has a salvage title, so that affects the value a but it still looks repairable.

I ran a Compnine report on this car and it's a factory white wheel and pinstripe delete car.

I own 621. I had come across similar info on build dates in my digging before. Good to know. Looks like my 91 Reatta convertible truly was the last one to roll off the line.

The painted cover is not plastic, it's pot metal just like the rest of the assembly. Parts of #12 are plastic.

Just to clear up some confusion.... On 1990 and 1991 Reattas, the lines are stainless steel starting at the fuel rail and going to about halfway down the incline where they go towards the back of the car. On a coupe, this is where the fuel filter is located. Padgett is presumably working on his 1990 convertible. On the convertibles, they transition from stainless to plastic at the same point. HOWEVER, if you've owned a convertible, you know that the fuel filter is located just in front of the drivers rear wheel. '88 and '89 Reattas are a whole different beast when it comes to fuel lines. You can buy kits to splice GM plastic fuel lines together. They're not cheap, but they work well.

That tab was only added for 1990 and 1991. Probably to combat the issue of them not laying flat on the 88 and 89 models

That part is supposed to be like that. If you seal that gap shut you will never be able to replace your seat belt without breaking that bezel. All Reattas are designed that way so you can replace the bezel or the belt independently.

I have used Apex Transmission multiple times with good results. They may not work on older cars though. Call them and see though. http://www.apextransmissions.com

You cannot press the play button unless there is a tape in the deck.

All you need to do is remove the defroster grille and tighten the T-15 screws. They get loose after 25 years.

This tour has been cancelled. Please see below from one of our chapter members who has been handling registration: I am sorry to inform you that the Tarheel Chapter is cancelling the SE Regional tour for this year. Our hotel in New Bern is closed for a minimum of 60 days due to flooding and it is too late to find another venue. We hope to have this tour in the Fall of 2019. I spoke to several of you this morning and left messages with others. Please remember to call the hotel if you have made reservations to cancel them. The number is (252)638-3585 - press 1. Our treasurer will be sending you a refund. Thank you for registering and we hope to see you next year. If you have any questions, you may respond to this email or give me a call at (336)599-9589. Anne Gibson Tarheel Chapter, BCA

If the CRT and dash are dimming, the photocell is good. Try turning your fog lights on and see if it returns. If it does then the circuit in the headlight switch that controls the back lighting may be bad.

Yes, I was prepared for power outages with a generator and plenty of gas just to keep the sump pump and fridge running. Lucky that was never an issue.

All is well here. Reattas are ok, we had some water in the basement/garage after a sump pump failure Monday morning. In just a few hours we got ~10" of rain. Most of the last few days was spent drying out the garage. Nothing important damaged though. I moved the Reattas to a parking deck downtown before the storm hit. I'm glad I did, because I checked on them later in the week and the deck was full of a dealership's inventory. Thursday-Sunday were pretty tame with no major issues, but Sunday night into Monday morning the remainder of the storm hit us hard on it's way out of the state. Tons of water, several tornado warnings and rivers rising. Here is the Eno river (about 3 miles from my house) Monday around lunch time. The river is usually 15-20 feet below this bridge. Over all we didn't get as much bad weather as our friends down east for sure. Which is forutate because a week ago it was supposed to make a direct hit on Durham. Sorry for not getting back to you VIA email, Dave. It's been a nutty couple days getting it all back in order. Just now getting some time to catch up

I have also had issues in the past with a bad keyless entry module providing power all the time to the trunk solenoid.

Buy it and drive it out to Raleigh and leave it here!

Why waste your time on cheap gaskets that may or may not fit when you can go buy a $25 set from your local auto parts store that you KNOW will work, and will probably last longer?

Depends on miles and color combo. Security light flashing is completely normal, and lots of them have the tape deck issue. Not hard to fix. If under 100k miles or a rare color combo sounds like a steal at $7k

No, if you take the top piece off the windsheild header you can't get to that screw. To properly do it, you have to remove both sun visors, the screw at either end of the interior colored header panel, and the screw holding each visor clip in. Then the whole interior header panel will drop down and you can get to the interior screw on the back of the header panel.

Down a Riv, time for a second Reatta?