Lee Beery

What do you guys feel is the best way to sell a Reatta? I have two 1990 convertibles, both in very good to excellent condition that I enjoy very much BUT I should not have two of them. I know it is a select field but there should be someone out there that would be willing to pay a fair price. What do you suggest I do? Silver - Gun metal gray Lee

I'm not smiling now. I still have a IPC problem as within 50 miles the instrument cluster went blank again. Found # nine fuse blown. My friend that is the lead man on this problem said that would happen as we had not found the problem. We are getting deeper and deeper into the FSM trying to figure out what is going on. Without a FSM you would not have a clue what to look for. I now believe this car was traded in for a Mercedes because of the problem. The one thing we have not found is a schematic for the IPC. Also on the symptom table of the FSM, elect diag (8a-82-9) it says ((Cluster does not light up, refer tp Section 8D, loss of IPC Display chart...Dang,I can't find that! Anyone that has been down this road before, please step in and take a swing.

Here is a reply to my own request for help. After making several checks involving body computer and alternator/instrument cluster circuits found the circuit that protects alternator feedback voltage was blown. #9 in left side fuse panel. Replaced fuse and had working panel and alternator. I was a little shaken when I was told the instrument cluster had failed.

Just acquired my second 1990 Reatta from an auto dealer in Washington. Before I took possession a test drive turned up a blank (no indication of any kind) instrument panel. They replaced the alternator and the problem went away. Now that I own the car, with in 100 miles the dash went blank again. I have searched the manuals and can not get a clue as what is wrong. Has anyone run into this problem or has suggestions for a fix?

I just purchased a new seal for my convertible weather seal. I found it easy to just insert a portion of the seal so if anyone needs to do the same I am willing to send you some of the new seal I did not use. 707 279 0259

David thanks for the reply along with the good news about the feel of the accelerator. I know about an occasional sticky throttle with our other Buicks and how to remedy that problem it was just the feel that seemed different on the Reatta and was hoping that it was normal. Thanks again........lb

What you said in your reply Barney is very true about being in }no rust{ California but I didn't take any chances. I put some "mouse milk" on all screws, nuts and bolts before I started the removal. I have used this product for many years and it truly works to free up fasteners. Also, those three screws you mentioned. On my Reatta they are a hex head capscrew, not metric, not a perfect fit but a 1/4" socket worked for me. And before you ask, most aviation parts venders carry Mouse Milk. Also can I ask what you thought of my shortening the unit attach bolts and cutting notches in the nylon ring gear?? My location is in northern Calif. (Kelseyville) .

Power steering sort of wimpy--- David that is what I had hoped to hear. Thanks for putting my mind at ease. Since you are an original owner I bet you can tell me if a little more resistance in throttle (foot feed) is also normal?? My every day car is a 2002 Buick and my wife's car is a 2005 Buick and the Reatta foot feed sure feels different. lb

Well it's done. The headlights now open and close! My helper is a very smart fellow. He built his plane, an RV 7 and I am a aircraft mechanic( for many many years) and we would not like doing this task every day. If you take on this job we would suggest cutting down the 3 long attach bolts 3/8" to reduce the amount of wrenching (turning) on reinstallation. On the RH unit take a knife and cut about 3/4" off the edge ring or cut notches in the edge of the nylon ring gear to allow the worm gear to engage the ring gear. Take care when you line them up. The kit parts were great. We could not figure out where the plastic body nuts went or why there was little red dots on the new plastic paws (rollers). I would have been more at ease if a spare snap ring had been included in the kit. Do you best to keep the removed snap rings on disassemble. All this being said it sure is nice to have my "ride" back to normal.

Great progress being made on our new Buick. Well maybe it isn't all that new but it sure fools a lot of folks. I am still blown away by the comments I get when I tell people the car is 25 years old. The only major task I have yet to do is rework the headlights. I have the kits but I am having too much fun driving the car. One question I have is the power steering seems to be wimpy. I don't recall any of my other older Buicks requiring so much muscle power to turn the wheel. There is no info in the Buick Service Manual on the subject that I can find. Can anyone shed some light on this subject?

Thanks for the kind comments. The car is awesome. I know I am a lucky guy to find a car in such great condition. Most of my car lookers think the car is just a year or so old. I do have a question for my new found "forum" friends. The power steering seems weak. Takes a great deal more muscle than most cars with power steering. Has any one run into this and found a correction?? I also made a E Bay purchase of a 1990 Reatta Service Manual that has never been used from the looks of it. Took my wife for a great Sunday drive this past weekend for the first time with the top down and she loves the car. We now have 3 Buicks so the Reatta is special and keep in the hangar along with my Corby Starlet, a plane as rare as the Reatta.

Too many of you all to thank individually so here is a big thanks to all!! In just 3 weeks I have made a major impact on the Gun Metal Gray/Gray Slate Reatta squawk sheet. I'm still impressed by the LOOKS the Reatta gets. The more I drive it the more I like it. I was going to make it my every day car but now I have decided to keep my LeSabre and just drive the Reatta on special days. You can bet I will keep reviewing the Reatta forum as it has been so darn helpful to me. Thanks again all of you...........

Just removed the tail light lens assy (not an easy job) because I have several bulbs that are burned out. I found 2 of the bulbs broken with the glass bulb hanging from the metal base. Every bulb is rusted into the socket and I am not able to twist and remove. Has any one run into this problem and if so do you have a suggestion,,, I used a needle nose pliers and bit by bit removed the bulb base from one of the broken units and found the base of the socket rusted away. No wonder it was not working!

When I was detailing my newly acquired Reatta I noted water had got into the trunk. No real damage. When I was fussing with the top hold down pins I noticed there was a hose from the tonneau cover well on one side, the other side had no hose. No wonder water got into the trunk. I guess I can just run a one inch Dia. soft hose down into the wheel well and correct the problem. Any one else run into this oddity?

John do you recognize the plane? It is an Australian design all wood/fabric with a VW type engine (RevMaster) and is called a Corby Starlet DJ1. Mine was built in 1996 and has about 300 hours on it. Weight, 588 pounds about 4 hour range and clips along at 120 knots while doing aileron rolls. As far as I can tell there are only 4 of these little gems flying in the USA. The Reatta and the Corby belong together don't you think?