c49er

Brake light switch is behind the left rear tire on the inside of the frame. Bob

In most situations the short (replacement pins) are the ones that won't get you into trouble. It all depends on lining wear and wheel cylinder piston style as to which style of pins to use. Replacement wheel cylinders use to include the shorter pins.. Bob

Three styles of pins. One is shorter than the other for different types of pistons.

You need the short pins for your type of W/cyls and piston combo.. There are three different styles of pins BTW.

Boy, that is one rusty wagon-sad to say.

Yes. The grille itself will.

The shift diaphram might have a break in it. Read the factory instructions on diagnosis. Thats how I learned to fix them.

I suppose it might end up just being a fad. Kinda like the pink wiper blades. 25 gram bag treats a quart of paint. Go for it!

Very rare cars to find...

Yep. I totally agree. People today use modern machines to design and make most everything. Boring.

Sometimes you can lift the bell housing up off the engine uncovering the top portion of the fluid coupling and upper bolts. You need to use a large drift and punch the two engine block to bell housing dowels into the bell housing. One each side of the block. Don't bash them into the coupling itself. Sometimes this works sometimes not. The dowels have to go into the bell housing holes deep enough so you can lift it straight up and off the engine. The Straight "8" engine is shown-same as a six. Bob

Nope. The cowls are curved differently.

Your brakes will require very little pedal push effort if the booster is rebuilt and installed on your car. I love the boosters on my 1950-52 Chryslers.

The car main power supply wire (#10 Red) connects at the same starter stud terminal as does the big battery cable. It then goes to the back of the ammeter. Check that the starter stud nuts are tight as are the 2 nuts that connect the red/black and green wires to the back of the ammeter. The ammeter connections are critical for power feed. Bob

The "CROWN IMPERIAL" is the most expensive Chrysler line car with a 145" WB. An eight passenger or divider window limousine that has Ausco-Lambert 4 wheel disc brakes. The Imperial is a different cheaper line.

Only framing carpenters can get those drums off.

There is a blue one in Norway or somewhere in Europe. It was in the Seattle area up till about 10 years ago. Not that you will buy it but....Type in 1942 DeSoto Business coupe on youtube and you will see it. A good solid rust free car. I used to keep it running for the owner.

As Keiser said-NO CHINA puller. It will break a leg and kill you when trying to remove your drum. The V-8 cars can be some of the toughest to remove drums from.

I have been into the 1946-52 Mopars for nearly 40+ years -PLY/Dodge and Chrysler cars. Some parts for my cars have taken 30 years or more to find parts for. If it was a chevy or ford you would have your trim pieces in a week directly from china. NOT... for a 49 Chrysler rag top. Time and lots of patience is required.

I think the WN is Washington State replacement #.

"Olsens gaskets" in Port Orchard washington will do it right the 1st time! They are fast too.

The Chrysler 1951-52 C52 NewYorker oil lines going from the drivers side of the converter housing to the front of the engine connect to the oil cooler mounted to the lower left front of the engine. No engine oil is supplied to the converter on the 331 Hemi. The converter gets it's oil supply from the oil reservoir sump as mentioned above. To drain 10+ Qts from the converter and sump start by removing the lower access cover on the bottom of the converter housing and rotate the converter to bring the drain plug to the bottom. Remove plug to drain the TQ converter-re-install after draining completely. Remove the sump plug and drain that section too. Fill the sump with a couple quarts of the specified oil. Then start the engine and continue filling the reservoir sump till the level at the fill plug hole does not drop down. The converter pump will draw fluid into the converter as you add fluid to the sump. Bob

No bugger if you have the shoes properly arced to each drum and leave the anchors at stock settings. Done it that way for a long time. makes for a high hard pedal.

The longest 5/8" or 11/16" open end wrench. I have the special miller wrenches which make it easier but not an absolute must to R&R the FD coupling's eight nuts.

The engine # is a 1946-8 chrysler. It should start with a C48....