c49er

It doesn't look like the Sisson electric choke works. The choke plate should snap closed upon cranking. A good running 323 eight shouldn't really need one that works during the warmer months though. I don't know if the engine is flooded, but I always pump the gas pedal on my C39 woodie several times before starting if it's been a day or two since it last ran. Look down the carb and open and close the throttle, you should see a good strong stream of gas squirt through the center bore of the carb each time the throttle is fully opened. If the car is stored in a warm dry garage the points are probably OK. But it would be good to check them for .020" gap and no corrosion buildup on them. Let the car sit for a day with a fully charged battery, get in it pump the gas 5or 6 times and crank er up! Should run fine. The Chrysler eights are good runners! PS... I just bought a C49 1950 T&C that won't start after sitting 2 years -Not enough fuel to the carb. Most likely caused by a bad fuel pump flex hose, stuck needle and seat or bad fuel pump. Good luck with yours! Bob

I agree with you Rusty.

" When you say relay do you mean the small box under the hood? That is not a relay. It contains a resistor and a circuit breaker" Rusty, the resistor and circuit breaker box mounted on the air cleaner bracket-6 cylinder cars is only for 1949-53 M-6 cars. 1946-48 M-5 type cars actually do have a 5 terminal relay box with a fuse attached and it is mounted generally on the drivers side inner fender panel. That is what mats is refering to. Picture of a 1948 M-5 relay. 1946-46 DeSoto and Chrysler all the same. Bob

Mats, The M-5 transmission works fine normally. But as an old M-5 transmission owner you will need to know how it works and how to maintain/repair it. Otherwise get to know someone who can keep it working properly. They normally work fine but I have read so many of the same stories my transmission will not upshift, grinds/bangs into high ect that I always tell the new DeSoto/Chrysler owners thy need to learn for themselves about the operation of the M-5 and M-6 (1949-53) hydraulic transmissions. Not many guys left today who know much about them! They are gone! Fix the problem and use it as was designed. Re-wire it properly and put 10 weight in the trans. Your relay might be buzzing clicking because of crossed shorted wires. The cover can be removed from the relay but you need to know what to look for and understand how the relay works electrically too. Bob

Sounds like a wiring/electrical controls issue. Maybe a grounded wire, wires crossed ect. Could be a faulty relay. Who knows... You need to get the shop manual or look online at the appropriate service films online and learn about these sometimes troublesome transmissions. These transmissions will always upshift with the wiring disconnected and full of oil-even the wrong type. The elecrical system controls when the trans will upshift or downshift. Without the electrics hooked up the trans will just imediately upshift and you won't be able to get it to auto downshift till you comr to a complete stop , hold the clutch in and wait a couple seconds. Then the oil pressure drops so the trans will pull out of high rangs. Bob

Dash Pot pin as already mentioned!

You should check the two pilot bushings in your replacement FD coupling before installing it and make sure they too are not worn out. You will need a small diameter precision bore guage or a used input shaft (no slop) to check the oilite bushings. I had a job on a 1942 S10 DeSoto about 10 years ago that the FD bushings had galled and siezed up. I replaced them and all is well to this day. Those oilite bushings should never have grease get into them as they are porous and prelubed with 10W oil from the manufacturer. I do apply a very small amount of light oil to the input shaft before installing the M4,5,6 transmissions. Be gentle with the FD unit and not over flex the FD driven plate as there is a copper bellows seal unit and graphite ring that can leak if you are rough with it. DO NOT hang the transmission (input shaft) on the coupling while trying to install the transmission! The FD coupling might leak afterwards if you do. Bob

I drove my 1950 Royal with out any transmission wiring for a month and it worked fine except no automatic coast downshifts or full throttle downshifts.

I'm not saying that for sure the free wheeling retainer or rollers is the problem but it does require total disassembly of the transmission to access. You said after stopping it will not go into low or reverse gears? Do you mean it will not actually shift completely into those gears- wont go into gear or just grinds when attemping to go into low or high range or reverse? Does the engine just fully and easily rev up in reverse or low/high range? Does the transmission E-Brake release fully? There is an early and a late type. Early is a band type and late is a enclosed E-Brake type using a drum and 2 brake shoes inside of the drum like on regular car drum brakes. If the ebrake hangs up going forward you will feel a jerking rattling noise if the ebrake is dragging and sometimes they can hang up enough so the car will not go forward untill you back up and then go forward again. But you will feel someting is wrong when trying to take off from a start. It is caused by oil on the band or shoes and semi tight adjustment.

I think your issue is inside the transmission. Mainly in the direct speed blocker and sleeve or more likely the free wheeling section of the countershaft gear-free wheeling rollers are not locking up to transmit drive power through output shaft. With the wiring disconnected all the trans will do is imediately upshift and automatic downshifts wont happen. All the electrical just controls at what speed the trans will upshift or when it will down shift.

Try driving it with all the wiring disconnected from the solenoid, interupter and governer on the transmission. Tape the ends of the wiring when you do this. If the trans and Fluid Drive coupling are good it will always upshift but be slow to downshift when you come to a stop unless you push the clutch in. Try this and reprt back. Easy enough to do. I do this on all parts cars to check the M5 and M6 transmissions. Bob

Any grinding jumping feel or noise? Check shifter linkage. Remote possibility a damaged or missing rear brake drum key/keyway. The other possibilities you won't like to hear!

Thats a convertible only material. Good luck on that hunt! I've looked for years-nothing.

I was just given a free case of 12 a month ago. Life is good.

I wouldn't touch that sludge. I tried that job once. A month later the engine siezed up. I was anal about cleaning as much as carefully as I could too. I'd go beat up the previous owner!

Once again... Chrysler Corp did not make a car with a torque converter until 1951. Your'e car has a very basic fluid coupling unit. Finding a good used one for a 1941 or 1942 Mopar car might be tough if you really do need one.

Check the fluid coupling oil level after making sure the clutch works OK. Read your'e shop manual for correct procedures.

No it won't swap over.

Nice Chrysler! Six or an Eight?

The tube will come out with out pulling the engine using a good puller. Just did a 1950 Chrysler Straight "8". Bob

This is what a Gyro-Matic trans looks like from underneath the car-has wires connected to it too.

Might have a failing solenoid. Check the governer points too. Make sure the front and rear transmission cases are full of oil too. Are you looking at your 1954 Plymouth shop manual. Tells you everything you need to know. Also there are three Master Technicians booklets for the 1952-54 Plymouth OD's for operation and service plus trouble shooting.

You will need to Pull the M-6 Hi/Lo 2 range trans off the back of the "FluidDrive" bell housing-held on by six bolts and nuts, also remove the driveline, linkages, wires ect. Pull the two rear motor mount bolts and clutch linkage too. The transmission just hangs down too low and will hit the cross member if you try to pull the complete engine assembly with the trans hooked up. The rest of the removal is as any other engine removal. Bob

Your DeSoto is a single action fuel pump. Has electric 2 speed wipers. No need for dual action fuel pump. Bob

Here is what you will see after taking it apart. That rear housing has the speedo pinion gear and oil pump inside. You will have to replace the rear seal and cover gasket. Bob