c49er

1061168 factory Mopar seal#. Bob

Yep, That breaker plate wire is an issue when they get old. You have to use a special very fine multi-strand wire too otherwise it won't last long because of the constant breaker plate movement. Bob

Gawd, I'm hope I'm steering rls120 right! Bob

I agree on the coil replacement. I thought I read it was already replaced. A common MoPar flathead issue.

You will need to remove the longer steering shaft to remove the pan and also probably need to remove the large cast iron lower bell housing pan too.. You will need a tie rod puller tool to do the steering linkage shaft or rod.

A parts car way to remove one is to smack the opposite axle, it will pop the axle out with a quick sharp hammer blow.

Shown are two ways of several to remove the rear shafts. 1st pic is with the factory Miller tool. 2nd way is using a hook slide hammer. Another way is to put the drum on kinda loosely-leave the nut on a few threads and yank it back and forth, should pull the axle. Some axles come right out too!

The Oilite disc filter in the tank possibly is plugging up after enough running time. Fuel pressure should be no more than 5 lbs. Is the flex hose at the fuel pump new and of modern rubber?

Better go for it Jack!

I'll have to pass:(

The post war Chrysler six engines were called the "Spitfire" same as the straight eights of the same era.

1951 and 1952 Chryslers could have the switch either on the shift linkage part of the lower steering column or mounted on the side of the M6 trans. Two terminal switch with the steel ball in the end used for either location. Bob

Lets not forget the Dodge truck.... Truck-O-Matic!

Is it bad or missing? They usually always work. Open it up and check and clean the points. Make sure the fuse and fuse contacts are good. Call Mitchell Motor parts , don't tell them you have a very valuable milestone or Classic T&C car or you will pay even more$$$. A lowly Royal uses the same relay as the C39 T&C cars. Bob

Just be sure to tell them it's a straight "8" and not a V8.

I use the clutch in all my Chryslers. Have for 35 years. I have never burned the clutch in one either. Don't be scared to use the 9-1/4" Borg and Beck clutch in one of these Chrysler cars. The clutch is not small by any means for the 251ci engine size. They are a normal sized cover and plate. Bob

More 40's to 50's MoPars... Vacamatic, Simplimatic, Gyro-Matic, Fluid Torque Drive,Prestomatic, Hydraulically Operated and yet there's more of em! Jeesh!

I also agree- It's for 1950 Chrysler's NewYorker wheel cover medallion up to certain serial# cars and 1950 T&C cars. On 1949 Chrysler and Imperial cars 1949-50 the medallion looks similar but is different. You see these on Ebay all the time.

Try EGGE Machine or Terrill Machine. Ya gotta pay to play with the old Chryslers! Lucky it's not a straight or hemi-major$$$$!

Use the Factory DeSoto shop manual instructions. They are precise and correct and show pictures too.

NO! With out the transmission input shaft supporting the Fluid Drive coupling it will vibrate severely and damage the bellows seal and graphite ring! It will then leak fluid in a big way! Take the clutch disc and cover out and re install the trans to test your theory on cause of the vibration.. The FD coupling units have 2 different sized input shaft bushings that can wear and cause a vibration also. The FD coupling can be damaged internally-bent vanes and or a front bearing failure-that will make noise though. Bob

Burnbombs sells a lot of universal fit close enough type rubber IMO. I'd try "Steele" Rubber reproductions for quality rubber parts-they are pricey but have good quality..There are a couple other good rubber repro guys but cannot think of who they are at this moment. As for a new better focused C38 or C39Chrysler forum try here....46-48Chryslers : Post War Heavy Metal 46-48 Chryslers Bob

All 8 cylinder NewYorkers for 1949 had the Vacu-Ease boosters. Try Booster Dewey out of Portland Oregon. About $300.00.

Trim 19 is blue and grey broadcloth.

One of the most important things not ever mentioned about a Fluid Drive car, You MUST ALWAYS put on the emergency brake fully when parking a Fluid Drive eqipped car! If you don't and the car is on any incline you might see it go BYE BYE-roll of into the yonder! The E-brake must be able to hold the car on a pretty steep grade to be safe. I have seen two Mopars-a 1942 DeSoto and a 1950 NewYorker get wrecked from rolling away. There is no mechanical gear connection between the engine and the rear end-just a fluid coupling. Bob