c49er

DeSoto had fuel injection!

Chrysler cars -up through 1952 can be tested for low mileage by how well the drivers door "clicks" shut. Slight push and the door should quietly and with a nice smooth clack just close completely and properly. Lift the doors and check for hinge pin wear too. Little or no up and down movement should be felt. Passenger doors wear 1/2 as much as the drivers door. High mileage and or a improperly adjusted door will require a good strong forceful push to close. The striker plate will be well worn as well as the latch rotor. At 24,000 miles your doors should close easily and all with the same effort. Bob

Be careful with the front ash tray. They 1951-2 Chryslers- are only held together with 2 rivits and are cheap diecast metal. Have seen many broken over the years. Yoy need to lube the slides for easy operation too! Bob

Jim, up in Lynnwood had 4 Chryslers- a Royal business coupe, a NewYorker Club coupe and a NewYorker sedan- All of them taken apart. He also had a Saratoga 3 passenger coupe he sold overseas- maybe Norway or Sweden. I think the engine out of the NY sedan was sold as a rebuilt engine separate from the car as I recall. Jim showed me the engine rebuilders reciept-over $2000.00. Also posted that slip on this site? long ago to prove the engine was rebuilt. I bought quite a few parts off the sedan parts car. I used to work a bit on the NY club coupe back in the late 70's. A guy named Bob Warr, a retired Seattle cop owned it. The block had a crack from freezing- he sealed it up and still drove it!!

He just said----"you will not read of my car again." Maybe it was the club coupe sold out of Lynnwood Wa. Well he is gone for good now- real bummer:(

Hey Jazzer--- How about selling that 50 NY hardtop shown in the picture- I'll double the $500.00 for the C51!

The Square 4 terminal relay box end 6 and 8 solenoids are tough to find and expensive new. I think Mitchell Motor parts has one!. They are some what prone to trouble after years of use. You might be in need of the more common round plain solenoid.

The reservoir lid held down with a 7/16" hex bolt-- is right below the booster bellows. Close/ tight fit. Fill it with a squirt bottle with brake fluid. Very poor access!

1335185 is chrysler 6 cylinder. The same seller has a 1241312 8 cylinder NY fender too. It is a RT Front. Bob

I have never seen a 218/230 Car or truck crankshaft that has been threaded from the factory. The 218 has a non threaded crank 4 hole flange. The 230 is an 8 bolt crank flange. Fluid couplings have 8 studs that fit to the crank. The 218's use 4 special bolts installed from the main cap side that go rear ward into the flywheel. To remove them- the pan and main cap need to come off. I have seen regular bolts and nuts used to attach the flywheels in the light duty dodge trucks. If you can find a fluid drive 4 speed as I recall your bell housing will accept it. You might have to drill 1 or 2 mounting threaded holes. I think the bosses are already there too. I have a 4 speed fluid drive trans but will not ship-sorry! Bob

There is a square filler plug in the passenger side of the differential case-fill till it runs out.

Hmmm... Really old thread. Anyway the straight 8 chrysler D-Tube can be removed from the back of the block as there is a 1-5/8" soft plug at the rear of the tube. Wont work with the engine in the car though! I made a precision fitting D-Tube removal tool for all 3 sizes of the MoPar flathead engines-23"/25" and straight 8's as I work on all of them. Also it is a must to remove the soft plugs on the side of the block to see and and completely scrape out the coolant passages of sludge, then high pressure flush the passages with water till completely clean. It will make a huge nasty mess! Correct thermostat, good distribution tube, timing correct and a good clean radiator- you should be good to go!

I have mounted and de-mounted the these type of rims shown in the picture many times over the years. My rims are very rust free. Rust is a bad thing with multi piece truck/old car rims. They need to be carefully checked for cracks and severe rust pitting and build up in the gooves. I would never match/ interchange different brands of rims/side rings ect. I also chain them up with big chain 3/8-1/2" or put them under a loader bucket and use a extended lock on air hose chuck for safety. Gotta be careful and safe working on these multi piece wheels. RH-5 wheels I would not do! Bob

This (Dodge 1951 3 ton rim is cracked too!) Not really-it's the way they are made. The lock ring is a one piece hoop and the wheel rim is split. I think the Firestone RH5 3 piece rims on Fords and Chevy's were the real dangerous rims. Bob

Low and high range are syncroed-thats why it's easy into those ranges. Reverse is not. Clutch might not be disengaging 100%. To make a quick test....Put lever in low range, engine running -with clutch pushed in -quickly pull shifter into reverse-if no grinding, clutch is dragging-out of adjustment or pilot bushings are dragging on the input shaft. Bob

1949-50 will interchange.

I always Arc- fit the shoes to each drum for full contact. As with the double anchor Lockheeds ( used on early MoPars) this is even more important. Don't even bother with the 1750 Ammco tool or the factory Miller tool till the shoes are arced!

Here is a pic of the original Di-Noc on my 48 T&C. Rare stuff. Most people use the wood 1/64th" veneer as a replacement if they have damaged film., because the OE Di-Noc film is not available. All 3M replacement film is not the same as the OE film. Also the cars came with both a dark and light Di-Noc film. Bob

Wow, Finally someone gave direct on the spot M-6 fast track upshift advice- if it won't upshift after idle speed and fluid level checks, disconnet the wiring! Right on!!!

The M6 requires the wiring and electrical controls to be able to control upshift and downshift at the engineered/designed road speeds. The M5 and M6 transmissions will always upshift into high range (as long as no mechanical gear damage) without any electrical controls hooked up. They will upshift imediately once pump pressure gets to 30PSI or more. Then the trans will downshift back to low range only when oil presure drops below 5 lbs. I bench test these transmissions after repairs without any electrical hooked up on the transmission stand. Just spin the input shaft and it will shift into high range. Simple. For those who are just beginning to drive/own a M5/6 MoPar they need to go buy the shop manual and and learn how to operate and fix these cars with this 2 range transmission. The old timer mechanics who fixed them are all just about gone now. Bob

It's on the engine side of the firewall-Drivers side.

Must be Terry with the 4000 mile car. On this car the bottom of the gas door, as you close it the bottom of the door is 1/4" above the 7/16" head - 1/4" X 1/2" long screw. Thats what the parts book calls for. No cupped washer used either. This is a 1950 T&C but they are the same fender and door as your C46 1949 T&C.. No clearance issues at all on this car. Maybe your gas door hinges are tweaked? The gas door does slide up and down for adjustment as you already know too. Bob

This in your face seller just lost a bunch of possible buyers-Too bad!

You could try to drive the problem out a couple thousand miles or so if there is nothing else you think needs or can be done- though won't find the problem. Are all the drums the same size/oversize? Yea, maybe back off the shoes on the LF. Otherwise take the LF all the way apart and re-check your work to really find out why it pulls after sitting a couple days..

Wheel cylinders ok?, maybe the wheel cylinder pistons are pushed deeper into the into the sludgy area and sticking now with the thicker lined shoes? Did you turn the( 2) 7/16" adjusting bolts on each backing plate in the proper direction for the fronts- As per the shop manual instructions. The return springs-4 coil and 5 coil - are they put on as per the shop manual? Shop manuals have a lot of accurate info! Lastly center plane brakes are touchy and maybe the shoes need to be arched to fit the drums. Other than these items you should be good to go! Bob