c49er

Check trans 10W oil level and worn motor mounts/ shifter linkage.

The heater or if dual heaters are mounted under the dash for all 1941-8 MoPar cars. Bob

On a 1948 Chrysler there are no Fluid Drive hoses to the radiator. Maybe you are referring to the heater hose connections either at the rear of the head or at the top of the water pump. Only on 1951 and up Fluid Torque Drive cars, they do have a oil cooler up front connected to the engine from the TQ. You car won't have this.

There is or was a restored 1951 New Yorker wagon in Spokane Washington. Real nice car with MoPar wires on it. Red lower-upper beige top. Years ago saw a beige 1951 NY wagon here in the Seattle area- it disappeared one day. Maybe it's the one in Spokane! Bob

WOW, That is a nice wagon! They usually are so rusty!

The trunk handle is retained to the big die cast housing by a crimped 7/8" tubular retainer ( you will see (2) 1/4" depressed crimped spots- they keep the sleeve retainer firmly holding the handle in place, it's down inside the large housing just below the 3/8" square shaft. If you can get at it use sharp jawed pliers to twist this round retainer 90 degrees then use a rubber mallet and tap the handle out of the housing. If you cannot rotate the retainer just carefully and firmly tap the handle and sahft out-it's the only way. Have done lots of MoPar door and trunk handles like this. There also is a wave washer under this retainer sleeve to keep the handle from being sloppy . Putting it back together is another story-use a setup to force the sleeve and wave washer down firmly with a deep socket or piece of tubing and use JB weld to hold/ glue the sleeve permanately in place as you cannot replace the sleeve with a new one. Also it's hard to re-crimp the sleeve tightly as done by the factory back in the exact same spot. JB weld or a Devcon product works 100% to hold the retaining sleeve.. Bob

As are all mine-antennas on the left front fender or cowl depending on the year. Up to 1948 on the cowl after on the fender. Bob

Autolite parts book shows CR-4001 for 46-8 8 cyl. You might try seaplym on ebay who might have a NOS coil. Bob

#1123522 for early cars-8 cylinder conv T&C engines. 1300667 for after early # 8 cyl engines. 4 door T&C 6 cyl. engines are a different . Any 6 volt coil will work but you need to modify the bracket and change the coil lead end to make it work. I have had failure issues with NOS OE Solar Spark coils not lasting. I now use modern day good quality 6 volt coils-USA made for my MoPar flatheads myself and use the original brackets. A lot of work though. Don't know why so many part#'s though. Maybe Joe can educate us on this issue. Bob

I am so happy to see the results! I won't have cancer now after years of restoring these old chryslers! Bob

I've had 2 Misco's, a Leica and now some $90.00 refractometer from who knows where. The genuine Misco's have a optional battery operated back light which is very nice. My Leica brake fluid testor died from fluid getting inside even though I always wiped it dry. I bumped/dropped the Misco and it got out of calibration after 4 years. For less than a $100.00 you will probably have to get a Chinesey one. The good big brand ones are $145.00- $300.00 and more! Refractometers are the way to go as you can check battery electrolyte charge , and both types of ethylene and propylene antifreeze.

Sorry but they are not a part that commonly needs replacement.

I've done lots of parts/junk car engine starts- 1st make sure cables and starter are there. Pull plugs dump oil down cylinders. Install strong 6 volt or 12 volt even better for use on a parts car, if no key hot wire starter-if starter just clunks with a thud-engine is severely stuck-go no further with trying to get it to run. Way too much trouble. If it does turn over freely do compression test-they all need to be even and close to at least 100lbs for it to sart and run decent, then continue with your plan to get it to run.

If it doesn't leak now I'd definately leave it alone. Have seen a couple people think they should change the fluid- after the change the graphite ring and bellows seal leaked! If it is low on fluid use the info Rick stated. Never use ATF! Fluid drive couplings that don't leak IMO should be left alone- just check that they are full. Bob

If the engine is that stuck- time for a complete rebuild to do it right! BTW to force a engine to turn over use the flywheel teeth with a large screw driver to turn it over, way more leverage there that the crank nut. Looks like the rings/pistons are rusty as are the valves-way bad!

I have done this repair quite a few times on the MoPar flatties. I use a Oxy/Acetelene torch and heat the remains of the spark plug red hot really quickly -and insert the proper easy out and they always back right out! Always. I have done this probably 10-15 times too on core engines. Now with the ceramic still stuck in the base of the plug you probably will have to pull the head. I take it this engine has sat not running for years for the plugs to rust away that badly. If so some of the valves are probably stuck too. Thats been my experience.

All the big Dodge truck Moly block flathead engines for the trucks had 7 main bearings. At least from 1940 through 1956.

I agree with Rusty_OToole and DeSoto Frank--- Keep it 6 volt. V-8's and 12 are the easy way out now days. Make sure you have BIG proper high quality 6 volt battery cables-not those skinny little 12 volt cables. And get the factory shop manual and learn from it how to keep your De"Soto" running properly. They are a joy to drive in the stock form too! Bob

There is no "torque Converter"- Only on 1951 and later certain cars---Just a fluid coupling on 1950 and back cars. Also the round filter tube screen is only externally removable on the M5 1948 and back cars . M6 cars1949 and later you have to remove the rear extension housing to gain access to that filter screen. Normally it never needs servicing unless other trans work is required. Bob

The firewall mat probably has abestos in it as possibly the undercoating . The clutch disc another hazard if its old. That cardboard heater ducting should be tested too on the Model 53 and 4 heaters- it kinda looks suspicious. I don't think I want to think about this issue anymore or let the government find out and take my old chryslers away for testing! Bob

There is a 2" round oilite bronze type of filter in the gas tank pickup tube-it's probably plugged up with 25 year old varnished gas. You have to cut the tank apart to get to it. You need to check that the line through the tank is free and open-you should be able to blow through it easily. If plugged you can try to jam a stiff wire in the PU tube to try to open a hole through it. Also there is supposed to be a brass/bronze 1/2" long bushing that fits inside the fuel tank fitting. This brass bushing is what seals the outside fuel line to the inside fuel line pickup tube inside the tank. If it is missing your car will start and run-die run ect because of a vacuum leak. Also replace the rubber suction hose at the frame to fuel pump if you have not done so. that hose if old will rot/crack and suck air-not enough fuel!

I don't think that is a 52 DeSoto hub cap.

See the posting on 1951 Coronet in this tech section. If severe noise upon upshifting/grinding ect. then the input shaft/direct speed clutch sleeve and blocker ring are probably worn out-very common on these transmissions! 1st make sure wiring/ idle speed correct and fluid level in the trans is full. Oil pumps in the later M-6 trans can fail too-they will make a warbling noise at slower speeds. The trans pump must put out 40lbs or more of pressure. You will need to look for a 1951-54 M-6 trans as the 1949 and 50 have different cases. Rear drums are different because of the u-joint flange too. Type and year of car are stamped on the trans case by the shifter cover. Bob

You need to get a factory shop manual or a "MoTors" book for assembly procedures and pictures. I assume you took it apart because of banging/grinding shift issues. Have done a lot of these transmissions for these reasons. Parts are costly and hard to find. The input shaft/ direct speed clutch sleeve and blocker ring are the most needed parts to properly repair these M-5 and 6 hydraulically operated transmissions. Here are pictures of the most commonly needed parts. Bob

If you want good rubber search "Steele" rubber products.